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Forced Induction & Tuning
Bottom end is toast - Need Guidance
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<blockquote data-quote="Nighttrain" data-source="post: 1402571" data-attributes="member: 21612"><p>For disassembly dont worry about rotating your motor. I will say this would be much easier with the motor out of the car but can be done in it. Pull the rad, fan ps pump, alt, so you can get your timing cover off easy. Unbolt the cam gears after you pull the tensioners. After youve got all that and the intake off next comes the heads. Pretty straight forward. I will say there is a reason you bent the valves, either timing was off or your cam has too high of lift. Is this a npi block? If it is did you mill the block down? Even with a high lift cam it shouldnt contact the piston with an npi unless it was decked. There is stupid amounts of room there. One more thing, if you had valve to piston contact those pistons are done. Youll see this without a doubt but make sure you dont have a broken spring. Did you put the left side cam on the left, and right on the right?</p><p>It is possible to change pistons with the motor in the car as well. Not sure if uoud have to jack the motor up to get the oil pan out from on top of the k member though, worth a try. As long as the pistons are in good shape with new rings, i dont see a problem. You definitly want to inspect your heads real good make sure the valve guides arent trashed. Imo id do valve seals while there. Hit everything real hard with assembly lube. Inspect the oil and filter for shavings all that good stuff. Quick question, i read back through some of your posts, what weight oil are you using. The ford lash adjusters are very touchy oil wise. With the valve covers off did you notice any excessive discoloration on the cams? Did you try taking the plugs out and turning it over again? Last question, can you see both valves down in both cylinders?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Nighttrain, post: 1402571, member: 21612"] For disassembly dont worry about rotating your motor. I will say this would be much easier with the motor out of the car but can be done in it. Pull the rad, fan ps pump, alt, so you can get your timing cover off easy. Unbolt the cam gears after you pull the tensioners. After youve got all that and the intake off next comes the heads. Pretty straight forward. I will say there is a reason you bent the valves, either timing was off or your cam has too high of lift. Is this a npi block? If it is did you mill the block down? Even with a high lift cam it shouldnt contact the piston with an npi unless it was decked. There is stupid amounts of room there. One more thing, if you had valve to piston contact those pistons are done. Youll see this without a doubt but make sure you dont have a broken spring. Did you put the left side cam on the left, and right on the right? It is possible to change pistons with the motor in the car as well. Not sure if uoud have to jack the motor up to get the oil pan out from on top of the k member though, worth a try. As long as the pistons are in good shape with new rings, i dont see a problem. You definitly want to inspect your heads real good make sure the valve guides arent trashed. Imo id do valve seals while there. Hit everything real hard with assembly lube. Inspect the oil and filter for shavings all that good stuff. Quick question, i read back through some of your posts, what weight oil are you using. The ford lash adjusters are very touchy oil wise. With the valve covers off did you notice any excessive discoloration on the cams? Did you try taking the plugs out and turning it over again? Last question, can you see both valves down in both cylinders? [/QUOTE]
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