Bottom end is toast - Need Guidance

Discussion in 'Forced Induction & Tuning' started by Freefallin, May 4, 2016.

  1. Freefallin

    Freefallin Member

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    Cylinders 1,3 and 4 were at 50, 65 and 50 on leak down test. Crap ton of air coming from
    oil fill cap and plugs have oil all over them. Ford live data scan tool also showed those 3 cylinders were way too low. Terrible news but need to figure out most cost effective way to get another short block in this thing. I keep hearing go MMR for the money, time and hassle it would take to find a used stock shortblock off of CL. Any other options or ideas?

    Sean
     
  2. DropTopPony

    DropTopPony Administrator Staff Member Admin SN95 Supporter

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    You can find decent rebuildable short blocks on CL and the forums all day long.

    If you are looking on the cheap, get some Boss rods. They are solid to 600hp easily and cheap!
    Find some used pistons from someone that changed their mind on a build etc etc.

    You can piece one together cheap if you look.

    Or order one from MMR etc and be done with it.
     
  3. Freefallin

    Freefallin Member

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    The way I see this is even if I piece it together like I said, I will still have to have have my block (or one I pick up) gone through at a machine shot and all the parts balanced. Then it's getting super close to the same cost as an MMR unless you know something I don't regarding how to get forged pistons and and build kit cheaper. Do they sell these BOSS connecting rods new Are there any full bottom end rebuild kits out there that are forged?

    Sean
     
  4. Freefallin

    Freefallin Member

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  5. Thomas_W

    Thomas_W Well-Known Member

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  6. Freefallin

    Freefallin Member

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    The best Ford tuner in my area just said MMR stuff is garbage and flat out said he will not tune the car if I throw an MMR in it...I haven't heard much if any bad info on it.

    Thomas, is it worth it to send my short block to a machinist and build the rotating assembly with something like the kit I linked?

    Sean
     
  7. Thomas_W

    Thomas_W Well-Known Member

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    If you have the tools, time and $$$ then sure

    i personally would find a teksid block, cobra crank and then pickup some forged rods and pistons. Get all that at machined at once and then assemble it from there
     
  8. DropTopPony

    DropTopPony Administrator Staff Member Admin SN95 Supporter

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    A lot of people in the modular industry hate MMR. I have never had an issue with the parts I have bought from them, but I haven't dropped 3-5k on a short block etc either.

    They are supposed to have shit customer service and give excuses to not stand by the work. Again I have only bought smaller supporting pieces from them so I cannot give you an opinion on a short block either way.


    Boss rods are current production parts and still available from Ford. Last time I checked they were @ $160 for all 8!
    For reference my Manley rods were @$600 for the set. If I was buying now I would go with the boss rods as I have seen them last in a 800hp blown KB Cobra.
     
  9. Freefallin

    Freefallin Member

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    So looks like the Teksid blocks came in all 96-99 Cobras and 93-96 Lincoln MKIII's? Guess I will have to scour the web for one of these unless someone knows of a place who builds short blocks out of these?

    What cc on pistons am I looking for to keep compression where it should be? I am guessing you are referring tot he 03 Cobra crank, guessing I have to find this used?

    I will have to look into those, thaks for the advise.

    What do both of you gents think about this stage 1 motor from MHP? $2700 seems like a good deal but not sure how much shipping is.

    http://www.mhpengines.com/46_shortblock

    Sean
     
  10. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    What are you trying to build and what is the application? Where are you located? [MENTION=10454]ScottyDsntKnow[/MENTION] has a couple teksid blocks that he just picked up. Give a little more info on your setup and we will talk from there.
     
  11. Freefallin

    Freefallin Member

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    -PI Windsor heads
    -BBK LTs
    -BBK Catless H
    -Turbo mufflers dumped
    -Alky Control Meth Kit w/Vortech Aftercooler
    -Edelbrock Vic Jr. Air gap manifold w/ 90*elbow
    -Edelbrock fuel lines
    -Aeromotive fuel pump
    -Accufab 90mm TB
    -AEM Wideband
    -Vortech Power Pipe
    -Comp Stage 1 Blower Cam
    -Vortech 8-Rib 2.75" pulley
    -Strange 28 spline axles
    -FRPP 4:10's
    -Steeda Tri-Ax
    -Stock tranny
    -Bypass Valve
    -Draw thru MAF in passenger side fender well connected to Power Pipe
    -Vortech V1 S-Trim (new bearing, seals and input shaft 2 years ago from Vortech)
    -Currently running PCV but will swap out to Vented Catch Can soon
    -Battery relocation to trunk w/Kill switch
    -King Cobra clutch

    I just want the car running and safe. The prior owner said he wanted to help me out yesterday when I told him the bottom end is toast, and I think he's being honest, I just have no clue what his idea of helping out means. I am waiting to hear back from him on what he's willing to do.

    How much does your buddy want for one of his blocks and what are the details?

    Sean
     
  12. Freefallin

    Freefallin Member

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  13. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    I tagged him in that post so he should chime in here as soon as he gets on.

    By the way, we cant see that thread unless we have an account.
     
  14. ScottyDsntKnow

    ScottyDsntKnow Well-Known Member

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    I'm the guy who is running out of room to store the Teksids... although I think I have 2 sold this weekend...

    There are 3 types of aluminum blocks, all will hold a ton of power regardless of what the internet says.
    -Teksid is the first aluminum block made in Italy by Teksid who also makes blocks for Ferrarri. These blocks are good for 4 figures and about 87lbs. They are in all Mark VIIIs and 96-99 Cobras and some 01 Cobras.

    -WAP is the first run of in house aluminum blocks by Ford to replace the expensive Teksid. They get a bad rap on the internet from e-racers for being weak but I have personally never seen or heard of one failing due to too much power. I'll be using one .020 over with internals capable of around 800hp and I will have no worries about it breaking. They are the lightest of all the blocks right at 80lbs. They are used in some 01 Cobras, 02-05 Exporer/Mountaineers, Mach1s and a few others. IIRC the 03/04 Aviators have them and the 05 Aviator had some but might have got the Aluminator which segways to...

    -Aluminator is the upgraded WAP block for all intents and purposes. Its the heaviest of the aluminum blocks and is every bit as strong as the Teksid, if not stronger. Found in 3V Mustangs, possibly 05 Aviators, I believe some trucks too.

    Here is a pic of a few of mine. Teksid is the dirty one from a Mark motor I just broke down. The WAP is the clean one I'll be using in my GT on the left. The Aluminator will look the same pretty much. Teksids are easily identified by the checkerboard pattern in the valley. The WAP/Aluminator have the diamond pattern.

    [​IMG]


    As far as internals for you... TBTH a cast crank is fine for 90% of people. They are good for way more power than you'll hear on the internets as well as they are nodular iron. 700+hp and 7K+rpm. They are also lighter than the forged Cobra cranks by a good margin. The forged cranks are made by Kellog and came in all 4.6L Cobras and manual Mach 1s and honestly not really needed until you are approaching the 800hp range. But... lots of people use them just for peace of mind. They are getting pricey tho... $300+ plus shipping for a good one. Cast is free and actually better to use than the forged one if you don't plan on making stupid high power.

    Rods and pistons... MMR I beams are cheap and come with ARP stuff and good for 750. For pistons on a 2V, Manley Street Masters are great budget pistons and at 18cc on a 2V will yield 9.5:1 compression which is perfect for a blower build. I'd use them myself if they weren't 8.5:1 on a 4V... too low for a Centri build. Total seal rings... all the regular parts for a rebuild after that...

    If you are near NJ, I can sell you one of my blocks probably and point you in the direction of Fonse Performance. If not... I'd go on CL and find a Mark VIII motor. You shouldn't pay more than $300 for one. Sell the cast crank for $100 and try to get $100 for the B heads and cams and there is most of your money back.
     
  15. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

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    The said modular company within most of these post are NOT the only modular builders in the modular community.

    Modmax
    http://www.modmaxracing.com/category_s/6.htm

    DSS Racing
    http://www.dssracing.com/D_S_S_Modular_Ford_engines_s/124.htm

    Livernois
    http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/engines/page/2

    Coast high performance CHP
    http://www.coasthigh.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=12396-SF-F4.6L-SB

    These companies dont play a mass market game. Individual attention to the customer is key. Im sure they had their mistakes, but ive never heard anything about them.
     
  16. ScottyDsntKnow

    ScottyDsntKnow Well-Known Member

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    MMR=Might Make Raceday.

    They sell good parts but I wouldn't trust them to build anything. They are all about volume, too many horror stories.

    Here is another real good shop.

    http://www.modularheadshop.com/
     
  17. Frank.JD.Perez

    Frank.JD.Perez Well-Known Member

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    I've heard real good things about livernois
     
  18. Thomas_W

    Thomas_W Well-Known Member

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    This!



    for my build im planning on an aluminator block (ive got a 3v) with one of MMR's 1500SE rotating assemblies. I'm a cheap ass, so i'll be sending it off for machine work and assembling it myself. Lol
     
  19. DropTopPony

    DropTopPony Administrator Staff Member Admin SN95 Supporter

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    Sean where are you located?
     
  20. Freefallin

    Freefallin Member

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    Thanks for the outstanding replies boys. I am in Portland, Oregon.

    Here are the specs on the short block over on Modded:
    -03 Cobra Block bored .20" over
    -SpeedPro piston @ 9.5:1 - Is this going to work compression-wise with my heads and S Trim?
    -Manley Rods
    -Cobra 8-bolt crank - Will I need an 8-bolt flywheel and will my T-45 work with this?
    -ARP 8750 bolt and studs
    *All work done at a shop called Pony Stop in Reseda, CA back in late 2014, motor never been installed or ran*

    He is asking $1800+shipping to me in Oregon. Anyone know how much it would run to ship to a residential address in Portland, OR for this thing? He said it's cheaper to ship to a business but I have no clue how I would get it home if it were shipped to a business....

    Sorry for the ignorance here guys, but please let me know if this setup might work for me.

    EDIT: I have a line on a Teksid block for $150 a few hours from my house. 130k miles all stock. I am thinking even though that's cheap, the machine work, forged rotating assembly and labor to install would be more than this other short block. Thoughts appreciated here gents.

    Sean