cam install guidance

[9550]

i am going to attempt to swap my cam.
i have no idea what im doing.
once i get the old one out, what things should i or need i do?
all i know is assembly lube and/or some type of special cam lube or something
i would appreciate any input on stuff to do and not do, any special break in rules to follow, how long can the cam sit before the lube drips off (i may get the cam in and not get the engine back together for months)
Thanks
Edit: 1995 ford mustang gt

 

[RichV]

Well, maybe start out by telling us what engine you are doing this in.

 

[Ferocious]

Judging from his username, I would say a 1995 5.0

 

[RichV]

Yea, maybe. But the point is:

If you want/ask for help, at least give us the basics. Us tech people don't read minds, or know what car everyone has. For all I know dude is installing a cam in a 84 Sentra.

 

[OnyxCobra]

make sure you remove/suspend the lifters BEFORE removing the cam.

 

[9550]

make sure you remove/suspend the lifters BEFORE removing the cam.

Thanks. Yeah, I will be pulling the lifters

 

[9550]

thats it?
i guess im all set then
thanks

 

[Musturd]

Use assembly lube and I'd turn the oil pump prior to firing so the lifters pump oil up to the heads but I'm pretty picky . Depending on the cam it may need to be degreed in

 

[RichV]

Well I just found out I get to do my cam as well. I think my distributor drive teeth are damaged from my oil pump lockup issue.

So anyways, this is what you'll need:

intake gasket set, water pump/timing gasket set

1. drain coolant, remove radiator
2. remove distributor, lower intake manifold, valve covers
3. remove rockers, pushrods, and lifters
4. remove water pump and timing cover, set the timing marks dot to dot, remove cam sprocket (make sure marks don't move)
5. you can use a cam removal tool, or a piece of thread rod, and carefully pull the cam straight out, make sure nothing is infront of the motor you don't want to get 50% out, then have something in the way
6. use assembly lube to install new cam, install slowly and don't use force

Reinstall new gaskets/bolts if needed. And re-time.

Sounds so simple on paper.

 

[9550]

Well I just found out I get to do my cam as well. I think my distributor drive teeth are damaged from my oil pump lockup issue.

So anyways, this is what you'll need:

intake gasket set, water pump/timing gasket set

1. drain coolant, remove radiator
2. remove distributor, lower intake manifold, valve covers
3. remove rockers, pushrods, and lifters
4. remove water pump and timing cover, set the timing marks dot to dot, remove cam sprocket (make sure marks don't move)
5. you can use a cam removal tool, or a piece of thread rod, and carefully pull the cam straight out, make sure nothing is infront of the motor you don't want to get 50% out, then have something in the way
6. use assembly lube to install new cam, install slowly and don't use force

Reinstall new gaskets/bolts if needed. And re-time.

Sounds so simple on paper.

i have done everything through #5. now i have to figure out what cam to install

as far as the lining up the marks go, i did that, but they moved a tiny bit when loosening the cam sprocket. so, i mean, if i had it set for tdc cylinder 1 compression, its just a matter of tweeking it, right?
now the problem i may have is that while turning the crank during cleaning the pistons i may have lost track of whether i still had it on the compression stroke. so, worst case, i put the cam in and put lifters on for cylinder 1 and turn the crank and i will be able to tell whether it is on compression or exhaust stroke, yes?

btw, you will definitely need to move the air conditioning compressor out of the way to get the cam out, which actually wasnt as hard as i thought it was going to be.

 

[9550]

Use assembly lube and I'd turn the oil pump prior to firing so the lifters pump oil up to the heads but I'm pretty picky . Depending on the cam it may need to be degreed in

the lifters pump oil to the heads? i thought they just lifted the pushrods? the oil pump pumps oil to the heads, no?

 

[RichV]

You'll just have to re-time. As long as you put the timing set back dot-to-dot the ignition can be adjusted if you're 180* out.

The lifters do supply oil through the pushrods, notice the rods are hollow.

I don't have to worry about AC, you probably did I'm guessing. I just unbolted both the head accessory brackets with most of everything intact.

 

[9550]

You'll just have to re-time. As long as you put the timing set back dot-to-dot the ignition can be adjusted if you're 180* out.

The lifters do supply oil through the pushrods, notice the rods are hollow.

I don't have to worry about AC, you probably did I'm guessing. I just unbolted both the head accessory brackets with most of everything intact.

wait, so if its 180* out, i can adjust the timing that much?
wouldnt it be simpler to just put a couple lifters on and see what stroke im on, or is that not possible?

yeah, i knew the rods are hollow, but didnt realize they were hollow to feed the head. im learning loads of stuff lately

 

[RichV]

Yes, as long as its dot to dot, or whatever the markings are on your timing set, it will time correctly. There is only one dot to dot possibility.

To re-install the pushrods and lifter would not matter. Remember you're moving the valvetrain but not the pistons, so you could interfere and bend a valve. So don't do that. When your timing marks align, the cam and crank are timed for the #1 compression/ignition stroke. If you have an adjustable timing set, you may want to degree the cam. The manufacturer should be able to help with that.

When the ignition is 180* out you're just trying to fire on the exhaust stroke of #1, so your rotor is 180* from where it should be. You just re-stab the distributor so your rotor is pointing to the opposite side.

 

[9550]

Yes, as long as its dot to dot, or whatever the markings are on your timing set, it will time correctly. There is only one dot to dot possibility.

i was thinking about the situation driving last night and i realized something and cleared it all up (i think): it doesnt matter what position the sprockets are in when i take them off. i didnt realize at first the that the cam sprocket only makes one revolution for every two revolutions of the crank sprocket. i can take the sprockets off without caring where the dots are, and just make sure they are lined up when i put the new cam in. right? as long as the crank sprocket mark is straight up, regardless of what stroke the cylinder was on when i take the sprockets off, putting the crank sprocket straight up and putting the cam sprocket mark straight down effectively 'resets' cylinder 1 to the compression stroke. what i cant figure out is why theres so much concern about making sure cylinder 1 is tdc of compression before taking the sprockets off?

To re-install the pushrods and lifter would not matter. Remember you're moving the valvetrain but not the pistons, so you could interfere and bend a valve. So don't do that. When your timing marks align, the cam and crank are timed for the #1 compression/ignition stroke. If you have an adjustable timing set, you may want to degree the cam. The manufacturer should be able to help with that.

maybe i wasnt explaining it correctly. to do what i was saying, i wasnt putting the heads back. just the cam, and two lifters. no pushrods. i dont know why the pistons wouldnt move if i turned the crank to check which lifter moved when. regardless, its moot now because all i need to do is line up the marks on the sprocket and im done.

When the ignition is 180* out you're just trying to fire on the exhaust stroke of #1, so your rotor is 180* from where it should be. You just re-stab the distributor so your rotor is pointing to the opposite side.

yeah, this sounds like the easy fix, but would be frowned upon?

 

[CC'S95GT]

i was thinking about the situation driving last night and i realized something and cleared it all up (i think): it doesnt matter what position the sprockets are in when i take them off. i didnt realize at first the that the cam sprocket only makes one revolution for every two revolutions of the crank sprocket. i can take the sprockets off without caring where the dots are, and just make sure they are lined up when i put the new cam in. right? as long as the crank sprocket mark is straight up, regardless of what stroke the cylinder was on when i take the sprockets off, putting the crank sprocket straight up and putting the cam sprocket mark straight down effectively 'resets' cylinder 1 to the compression stroke. what i cant figure out is why theres so much concern about making sure cylinder 1 is tdc of compression before taking the sprockets off?

It just makes it easier at reassembly it the #1 is already at TDC. and it minimizes the risk of the crank being 180* out

 

[RichV]

You're overthinking how simple this really is.

The reason you'd want to lign up the sprockets before disassembly is so you know where they are and can put them back on marks rather easily. If you install it a tooth off either way, you're ****ed and will be re-doing all of this.

Sure you can put 2 lifters in place and turn the cam. But it will be on the power stroke when the cam sprocket mark is at the dot, that's what the dot is there for.

Not sure what you mean, frowned upon. When the timing is on marks, the distributor rotor will point at #1. If it's 180* out the rotor will point at #6, the ONLY way to make this correct is to re-install the distributor with the rotor pointing at #1.

It's hard to explain without showing you, but if you lign up the cam/crank correct, it will run.

 

[9550]

You're overthinking how simple this really is.

The reason you'd want to lign up the sprockets before disassembly is so you know where they are and can put them back on marks rather easily. If you install it a tooth off either way, you're ****ed and will be re-doing all of this.

Sure you can put 2 lifters in place and turn the cam. But it will be on the power stroke when the cam sprocket mark is at the dot, that's what the dot is there for.

Not sure what you mean, frowned upon. When the timing is on marks, the distributor rotor will point at #1. If it's 180* out the rotor will point at #6, the ONLY way to make this correct is to re-install the distributor with the rotor pointing at #1.

It's hard to explain without showing you, but if you lign up the cam/crank correct, it will run.

yeah, the lifter plan is moot because of the dots, i realized that.

as far as the distributor goes, i thought you were saying if i was off 180* i should restab the distrib so the rotor was pointing at 6 when it normally would be pointing at 1. so like if somebody was working on the car and didnt know the distrib was off 180* they would be screwed. but now i realize i think that restabbing it would make it point to 1 and everything would be normal, as if there was never a problem in the first place, and nobody would know the difference. my faulty thought was due to me not taking the cam sprocket to crank sprocket ratio into account (2 crank revs for 1 cam rev).
anyway, its all cleared up now i think. just line the dots up and we're golden.