cam question

[LAFENATU]

wait a minute here.... when i checked my head/cam combo for pushrod length the stock length was correct.

According to Jay Allen stock pushrods are not the right size for "ANY" aftermarket cam.

My AFR/Crane 2031 combo did not fit stock pushrods at all. I had to order hardened pushrods from Manley.

Now, I have a set of brand new crane chromoly 6.25 pushrods..lol

 

[auto_x5.0]

Dude there is a tfs1 cam used on www.kcsr.orghttp://http://http:// for 130. then you dont have to worry about shipping. I would have picked it up myself but just bought a e cam for 100 acouple weeks eariler. Offer him 100 for it. You dont need RR if your working on a budget but they are nice to have. I picked up a set of cobra 1.7s for 100 bucks also.

Im not big on buying used internals, it's like buying used underwear.
You still work at O'Reilly?

 

[OnyxCobra]

wait a minute here.... when i checked my head/cam combo for pushrod length the stock length was correct.

According to Jay Allen stock pushrods are not the right size for "ANY" aftermarket cam.

My AFR/Crane 2031 combo did not fit stock pushrods at all. I had to order hardened pushrods from Manley.

Now, I have a set of brand new crane chromoly 6.25 pushrods..lol

well i know he knows his stuff but i'm not sure why he would say that, i marked the top of the valves and the stock 6.25" pushrods put the wear mark dead nuts center on the top of the valve... not that i want to argue but it seems pretty cut and dry.

 

[LAFENATU]

well i know he knows his stuff but i'm not sure why he would say that, i marked the top of the valves and the stock 6.25" pushrods put the wear mark dead nuts center on the top of the valve... not that i want to argue but it seems pretty cut and dry.

My original comment I got from Jay Allen.

If you are taking the time to read this, then you have already spent or are about to spend some hard earned money on go-fast parts. I would not assume anything at this point about pushrod length. A pushrod that fits one engine may not necessarily work in another. If you are using a stock length pushrod, then I can assure you that the pushrod length is wrong.

There are a number of variables in determining the correct length pushrod for your engine. Pushrod length is influenced by many things: The deck height of the block, the type of cylinder head that is being used, the brand of rocker arm that is used, the camshaft base circle, the lifter height, the valve stem size, the thickness of the head gasket, the thickness of the guide plate, the height of the valve job relative to the deck of the cylinder head. As you can now see, there can be many things that affect the pushrod length. SO PLEASE CHECK! And as a note, always use heat treated pushrods with guideplates.

Buy a checking pushrod. There are many types available. I would use the one from Competition Cams. I have used theirs in the past with the most accurate readings. I sell the Comp pushrod checker for $19.95 plus freight.

Now you can determine correct valve train geometry, and this is only accomplished with the right length pushrod. The correct pushrod length will produce correct valve train geometry. You know you have the right geometry when the rocker arm roller tip rolls from the intake side of the valve tip, across the center of the tip (at approximately mid-lift), to the exhaust side of the valve tip (at full lift) and back. I like there to be minimal run out when checking pushrod length. On an 11/32 stem valve, .075? (+/-) is a good area to stay within. Be sure that the wear pattern is centered on the stem of the valve.

Simply remove the pushrod checker and measure it for an overall length. I would set this up again and recheck myself. You just never know when you might have made a simple mistake.

A very long time ago when I was first starting out, I did not understand the importance of the proper length pushrods and rocker arm geometry. The more in depth the engine became, the more I realized how important this was. I have taken customer?s engines and done nothing more than fix pushrod length. We have seen 20 horsepower to 30 horsepower on more than one occasion. I cannot emphasize enough about checking and double checking for proper pushrod length and rocker arm geometry

 

[94 DropTop]

Yup I still work there. Used stuff gets you the best deal most of the time. Aslong as you inspect it, and make sure its in good condition. But i understand where your coming from.

 

[OnyxCobra]

Sounds like he contradicts himself a little there when he says there's NO way a stock length pushrod is correct, and then he lists about a hundred things that could effect it. how could he make such a bold statement when there are, like he said, so many variables?


P.S. used cam is definitely NOT like used underwear lol

 

[auto_x5.0]

Yup I still work there. Used stuff gets you the best deal most of the time. Aslong as you inspect it, and make sure its in good condition. But i understand where your coming from.

Yeah, my friend works there too
But I was just thinking about that because he's selling alot of 347 stuff, I dont want a cam that got the sh*t drove out of it for $120

 

[OnyxCobra]

how do you drive the shit out of a cam?

 

[MufflerBearings69]

94/95 Cobra's come with a Crane Energizer 1.7 roller rocker

94/95 Cobra's come with a Crane Energizer 1.7 roller rocker

Im not working with a cobra bro, Im working with my GT. So if I get GT40 heads off an explorer would I need to swap the rockers for 1.7 if I go with that cam or any of the cams mentioned above?

To get the advertised lift on a Crane 2031 or any other cam whose specs are given with 1.7 ratio rockers yes... That is all I was pointing out...

They CAN and often are used with 1.6 rockers- theres no real reason to. It wont help idle... It just cuts area under the curve... that cam isnt big enough to need to cut area under the curve.

With that cam, with 1.7 rockers, with an auto mine had no drivability issues, so why shrink the lift... UNLESS you just have 1.6 rockers to reuse or something, then its whatever

 

[auto_x5.0]

how do you drive the **** out of a cam?

I mean like if the car was street/strip, I dont want a part that has been put through that.

 

[OnyxCobra]

yeah but it's not like they wear out dude, not for a long time. When i pulled my cam out (roughly 60k miles) and put it next to my new one, i had to look close to see which was which.

 

[LAFENATU]

yeah but it's not like they wear out dude, not for a long time. When i pulled my cam out (roughly 60k miles) and put it next to my new one, i had to look close to see which was which.

The only way a cam can get fvcked is basically if the rotating assembly gets jacked.

 

[auto_x5.0]

So really a used cam wouldnt be bad unless something happened to the bottom end?

 

[OnyxCobra]

right, get some pics of it and if all the lobes and stuff look clean then there should be no problems with it. It should have little to no wear on it.

 

[auto_x5.0]

right, get some pics of it and if all the lobes and stuff look clean then there should be no problems with it. It should have little to no wear on it.

So as long as the lobes are still smooth and no chips, scratches, etc in it they will be alright to buy?

 

[OnyxCobra]

yeah man as far as i know. I'm telling you the cam i pulled out of my stock engine i had to look so closely at it to see any sort of marks on it. yeah it had some, but the roller cams have so little friction.

Wait too to hear from someone who's bought a used cam just to be sure. What's he asking for it? New they're 180 so maybe offer half that or so.

 

[auto_x5.0]

He's asking $120 for it
I will see what money I have left here in a week or soo after I buy the stuff I actually need for the car.