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<blockquote data-quote="95PGTTech" data-source="post: 750867" data-attributes="member: 9525"><p>I do have one with a noticeable defect but it's on the back. I haven't road force balanced the rears yet. I looked through my notes in prep for the ASE Steering Test and I did see excessive caster difference or improper caster can cause a shimmy. I guess that's a fair description of the issue. My last alignment was 1.7/2.3 so that's a pretty extreme difference in caster and a very incorrect caster setting. I've been trying to find a cheap set of C/C plates and lowering springs as one of the modifications (the strut towers have already been drilled, likely after the accident). I'm hopeful this is the issue, but I may try balancing the rear tires, then rotating that bad tire to the front to see if the issue gets worse.</p><p></p><p>The caster would also explain the pull, as another note is that a car with good camber and toe settings will pull in the direction of the greater positive pull. This also might explain why it seemed to get worse after installing solid rack bushings - you'll feel a shimmy issue a lot worse through the rack. The explanation makes sense in my head - I hope it turns out like that in real life. I'll have my Thursday to myself this week so I should be able to do the door and header panel with some luck.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="95PGTTech, post: 750867, member: 9525"] I do have one with a noticeable defect but it's on the back. I haven't road force balanced the rears yet. I looked through my notes in prep for the ASE Steering Test and I did see excessive caster difference or improper caster can cause a shimmy. I guess that's a fair description of the issue. My last alignment was 1.7/2.3 so that's a pretty extreme difference in caster and a very incorrect caster setting. I've been trying to find a cheap set of C/C plates and lowering springs as one of the modifications (the strut towers have already been drilled, likely after the accident). I'm hopeful this is the issue, but I may try balancing the rear tires, then rotating that bad tire to the front to see if the issue gets worse. The caster would also explain the pull, as another note is that a car with good camber and toe settings will pull in the direction of the greater positive pull. This also might explain why it seemed to get worse after installing solid rack bushings - you'll feel a shimmy issue a lot worse through the rack. The explanation makes sense in my head - I hope it turns out like that in real life. I'll have my Thursday to myself this week so I should be able to do the door and header panel with some luck. [/QUOTE]
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