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Drivetrain
Clutch Break In/Replacement Suggestions
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<blockquote data-quote="Joeminnesota" data-source="post: 1555277" data-attributes="member: 30413"><p>Most clutch break-in instructions call for 500 miles of “normal driving” or 1000 clutch cycles .. so yes a mix of around town and highway. I wouldn’t be afraid to do pulls w/a stock 5.0 after 100 miles, but the main thing is not to strap it to a dyno during break-in (or slicks / sticky tires). </p><p></p><p>The pressure plate bolts should be clean and dry and used with RED LOCTITE and not any RTV type sealant. The thread locker is there so they don’t come loose - ever - until you break them loose again someday. The crank flange is outside of the rear main seal, so there is NOT oil passing through anywhere there. That’s not accurate. </p><p></p><p>Clean your flywheel & pressure plate faces with brake clean before installing., so they are clean and dry.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Joeminnesota, post: 1555277, member: 30413"] Most clutch break-in instructions call for 500 miles of “normal driving” or 1000 clutch cycles .. so yes a mix of around town and highway. I wouldn’t be afraid to do pulls w/a stock 5.0 after 100 miles, but the main thing is not to strap it to a dyno during break-in (or slicks / sticky tires). The pressure plate bolts should be clean and dry and used with RED LOCTITE and not any RTV type sealant. The thread locker is there so they don’t come loose - ever - until you break them loose again someday. The crank flange is outside of the rear main seal, so there is NOT oil passing through anywhere there. That’s not accurate. Clean your flywheel & pressure plate faces with brake clean before installing., so they are clean and dry. [/QUOTE]
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