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Message: <blockquote data-quote="shovel" data-source="post: 1588400" data-attributes="member: 29855">Other stuff;The Holley is capable of directly driving the stock tachometer.   That part was absolutely painless.The OEM wire harness down in the passenger footwell?   I removed all of it.  Wire by wire.   Here's how I did that.[ATTACH=full]50068[/ATTACH]All these parts came off the car and are staying off itFirst thing is I got a factory service manual wiring diagram book.   It has every circuit on the car.  The challenge in that is they aren't illustrated exactly by wiring loom - in other words there are many unrelated circuits that share the same physical bindings and loom so there's no convenient way to just unplug the old ECU and start cutting wholesale.   I had to first carefully cut away the loom and tape wrap and potting adhesive,  then compare wire colors and plug pin locations with the diagrams.  This might sound weird but having an incandescent light bulb in a shop light helped a lot here with identifying faint colors,  they stood out way better with a hot bulb than with LED light. One by one I trimmed individual wires, some I trimmed long because I was going to reuse them (water temp gauge sender, tach sender, check engine light trigger, etc)  and others I cut shorER because I thought I would probably not use them but MIGHT use them,  others I cut way back because I was definitely not going to use them again. I didn't want to have a lot of dead wires just along for the ride so I went a step further - from inside the passenger fender well where all the wires disappear into the side of the firewall it's not really possible to access it without removing the fender.   I didn't want to remove the fender.  After cutting back the wires I had no intention of reusing I sprayed some silicone lubricant at the bunch of cut wire ends and then got inside the car where I had unplugged and removed the ECU & began just slowly tugging on indivdual wires (each identified as being one of the decommissioned wires one by one) - at first none of them wanted to budge because they've all been bundled together for three decades but eventually one of them gave a little slack and I carefully pulled it through to the cab.   Then I repeated that, each time the loom became slightly roomier and slightly more of the silicone lubricant got dragged through there so after a half dozen wires they just slipped through like nothing. Cool. I was able to preserve the injection/sensor harness along with that big connector since mine is recently rebuilt and in fine condition, it'll make somebody's day on ebay. As I've typed several times before,  there are some parts of this I have not yet 100% completed because I want to run the car and find out exactly what does and doesn't work.   After I have the car doing everything I want it to do there's another handful of wires I can remove still.  While typing this right now I don't remember exactly what those wires are or why I kept them, that was decisions I made at 11pm on a Friday night several weeks ago and I trust me to have my reasons.    Haircut rules, easier to leave a little extra and go back to trim more than if you trim too much right at the beginning.The Sniper uses a single oxygen sensor.  I put it in the driver side because there is slightly more clearance there without the starter nearby and I had a bung plug thing from a different vehicle's exhaust project to plug up the passenger side exhaust. The headers I'm using have a bung for the EGR tube,  that was closed with a 5/8" SAE 45 degree "Flare Cap".</blockquote>