Cooling issues after much work

BrianGFMX

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I have a 95 mustang gt with very minimal mods. I've had the car for a couple of years and last summer it remained on the first O of normal on the gauge. This summer it's running at the M or A of normal. I have read that it's okay when it runs there, but when my at is higher up the gauge the rpms are shaky under minimal throttle. There is also a loud rattle around three thousand rpms or more. In regards to cooling I have installed a motorcraft 180 degree thermostat and ford racing water pump. The radiator has been replaced as well and have clean coolant. The other work that has been done is a new egr valve and ect sensor. I have really ran out of ideas... I want the car to run cooler so I don't experience the shake and rattle. Please give me your ideas.
 

RichV

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Does the fan work?

Do you have the lower air deflector?

Are the problems apparent when driving? Or when in traffic? Or both?
 

BrianGFMX

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I'm pretty sure it's at 10 degrees spec. I could check the timing... But the behavior of the car and its temp has completely changed. I'm tried replacing quite a few things as I mentioned. I don't know if it could be ac related or what? I could get over the temp gauge, but it's the characteristics that come with the new higher temp that is hair pulling inducing. When it gets near the M or A in the gauge for a while it gets like a hiccup in the rhythm of the idle. Once that occurs I know the car's rpms will shake with slight throttle. It feels weak on top of it. Then there's this rattle above three thousand that makes me cringe and its nothing apparent.
 

BrianGFMX

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Fans on I'm usually running the ac in the summer, I live in Florida. The conditions begin in slow city like driving then will go on for the entire drive. Any trip that may be a half an hour or 20 miles and I'm almost certain these are going to happen. No deflector, but never had one and used to be perfect.
 

RichV

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These cars are bottom feeders. That deflector needs to be there. Maybe lowering the car can affect airflow or something, but my 94 and my Fox would nearly overheat without that deflector. The racetrack is a little more taxing than the street, but I have a modified Ranger deflector on mine. You should definitely have at least the stock deflector.

20130525-JohnHiattIV-1174-3_zpseea1a5e6.jpg
 

CC'S95GT

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Definately double ck the timing. Make sure the spout connector is out when setting base timing.
You might also by gas from a different place. Some cars will ping like crazy on gas from 1 place but be fine from another.
I am running 12* timing but I have to run 89 octane in the summer to prevent pinging. In the winter I can get away with 87 octane because of the cooler temps.

BTW welcome to the madness
 

ttocs

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the stock gauge really isn't all that accurate and can change when there isn't a change. Mine ran like a top with the temp in the exact same place for 10+ yrs until one day it was higher. I put an aftermarket gauge on it and it was still just fine.
 

BrianGFMX

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I ordered the radiator deflector just to rule that out. I'm not too concerned with the actual reading on the temp gauge, but I'm trying to correct the issues present once it does get in the warmer range or stop everything all together. I've always ran 93 octane from shell, bp, or sonoco. The last time the timing was adjusted was by some shop that replaced my distributor quickly. I didn't have time to order the part. I'll have to pick up a timing light and check.
 

toyman

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I ordered the radiator deflector just to rule that out. I'm not too concerned with the actual reading on the temp gauge, but I'm trying to correct the issues present once it does get in the warmer range or stop everything all together. I've always ran 93 octane from shell, bp, or sonoco. The last time the timing was adjusted was by some shop that replaced my distributor quickly. I didn't have time to order the part. I'll have to pick up a timing light and check.

You shouldn't need to use 93 octane. I would check for issues by pulling the trouble codes before you start to replace parts. Also, remove and clean the battery to engine and engine to chassis ground terminals. These need to be solid for all the sensors to function properly. You should do this before checking codes. If you haven't already done so clean the MAF with MAF cleaner or equivalent.
 

toyman

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Here's what should be there for the air deflector.

Air%20deflector%20small.JPG
 

RichV

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ttocs brings a good point with the gauge as well. Go to HF or find a cheepie IR temp gun, then get the reading of the water neck when the gauge reads high. Keep it running while you do this. Around 210* is about the norm for the OEM fan calibration.
 

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