Electrical Issues

Brian95SVT

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Ok, I have a 1996 Mustang GT. I am having some electrical issues. (shitty way to start a thread... I know, I'm dealing with it)


#13 fuse on circuit underneath the driver side keeps blowing and it is for my dash lights/hvac. Sometimes I replace the fuse and it lasts for a few hours, sometimes it lasts for a few days. (EDITED: It is a 10 amp fuse or whatever the heck its called)

When I pull my light switch back to have my lights come on, the following works: Headlights, foglights, taillights. The following doesn't light up: Dash lights, clock, hvac. When I don't have the switch pulled back the clock shows up without issues. When I pull back half a pull for the parking lights to come on, the clock goes back out and the dash lights/hvac don't come on but my parking lights (exterior) do work without issues.

Sometimes my clock will reset when it blows, sometimes it doesn't.

I have replaced battery terminals, radio was professionally installed and wires were inspected before install.

I have pulled my gauge cluster out and covered all wires that were broken with electrical tape to ensure nothing hits metal.

I am running out of things to fix.... I am going to pull the gauge cluster out in a few days when my LEDs come in (doing that LED mod) and I will double check everything again.

I took it to a local car electrician who said that my radio was improperly installed and that if I bought a new radio and had it professionally installed it would fix the issue. Did that, and it still blows. I am skeptical about bringing it back to the same electrician because I kind of feel like it doesn't know what he's talking about. Best Buy installed my radio and they said that the three wires you have to ensure are covered because they are the only three wires that could cause and issue, were covered in previous install so it has nothing to do with the radio. (did get a nice new radio out of this though) Best Buy said that they would try and diagnose the problem but I want to save the money and try to figure it out on my own.

I was considering that maybe the battery line that goes from the battery to the block could be bad but wasn't sure.


Any suggestions?


-Brian
 

Red 97

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I'm sorry I cant help but I had the same problem. After I installed my LT headers The steering shaft was touching one of the primaries. So after I took the entire shaft out, fixed it and put it back in the problem started. I went for a drive to see if it was still touching. I had fixed the shaft but when I turned my lights on, my dash lights went off right after. I replaced the fuses only for them to keep blowing so I gave up figuring I pinched a wire when I was under the dash and I had a short I couldnt find. So I waited about 2 months, driving my car around without dash light. So one day I figured i'd try to figure it out, I popped a new fuse in to start off and Its still there to this day. Fixed itself i guess.
 

GDawg

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If you have a "Short to Ground" the fuse will not blow. If you have a "Short to Voltage" than you will have too much current and a blown fuse. Meaning that "Short to Ground" is short to chassis. "Short to Voltage" means two or more wires touching when they shouldn't. What fuse is blowing? The Radio fuse? If it's the radio fuse, then somewhere you have a parallel connection instead of a series connection. The radio install was done incorrectly.
 

CC'S95GT

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Have you taken a look at the head light switch? I thought My HL sw shorted out , But when I got it apart I believe it was the connector. It was melted in the middle. So both were replaced anyway. There is a bunch of wires going in and out of the sw.
 
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Brian95SVT

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GDawg said:
If you have a "Short to Ground" the fuse will not blow. If you have a "Short to Voltage" than you will have too much current and a blown fuse. Meaning that "Short to Ground" is short to chassis. "Short to Voltage" means two or more wires touching when they shouldn't. What fuse is blowing? The Radio fuse? If it's the radio fuse, then somewhere you have a parallel connection instead of a series connection. The radio install was done incorrectly.

It's number 13 under the drivers side on the fuse box. That's stated in OP.
DESERTCOX05 said:
Have you taken a look at the head light switch? I thought My HL sw shorted out , But when I got it apart I believe it was the connector. It was melted in the middle. So both were replaced anyway. There is a bunch of wires going in and out of the sw.

That's where the wires were that I wrapped in electrical tape were. But I didn't see anything else, I'll pull it apart again tomorrow and double check everything.



As of right now, I'm not sure what the cause is or where it is....
 

GDawg

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Maybe the radio is wired up incorrectly. Disconnect it and see if the fuse still blows.
 

atrainsgt

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my96gtstang said:
GDawg said:
Maybe the radio is wired up incorrectly. Disconnect it and see if the fuse still blows.

It was just professionally installed..... Everything is wired correctly....

Why not disconnect it just to test what GDawg said? Just because something was done professionally doesn't mean it was done right.
 
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Brian95SVT

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atrainsgt said:
my96gtstang said:
GDawg said:
Maybe the radio is wired up incorrectly. Disconnect it and see if the fuse still blows.



It was just professionally installed..... Everything is wired correctly....

Why not disconnect it just to test what GDawg said? Just because something was done professionally doesn't mean it was done right.


Well the reason I don't believe it has anything to do with the radio is because the radio was completely unplugged the last time my dash lights blew out. I might have posted that on a different forum and not here. I have to reread my OP.

But when my dash lights last blew my radio hadn't been installed yet by Best Buy.

After the install I came home and pulled my cluster out and fixed the frayed wires and wrapped them as I did post. Then replaced the fuse and the dash lights came back. Then the next day I woke up and they were out again. Pulled the fuse and it was blown.

Today I re-pulled my entire gauge cluster out, disassembled the cluster to check everything in there, fixed a few things, double checked all the wires to make sure I didn't miss any, pulled out my clock and checked the wire to that. Everything looked fine. I went to pull out my garage (which I'm not sure if y'all remember but I live with my parents and my dad is a total slob when it comes to his garage and shit is laying everywhere) and I thought I cleared everything but a screw must have rolled under my tire and went into it when I was pulling out. So I am ordering all 4 new tires and putting my cobra r rims back on all 4 corners. I'm about to run up the advanced auto and pick up new fuses since I ran out of them. Ill post and inform if everything is working now.
 
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Brian95SVT

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DESERTCOX05 said:
did you ck the head light sw/connector while you had the cluster out?

yes, I did. I went back and double checked everything. And I want to try replacing the headlight switch but right now it came back on and the fuse isn't blown right now but I have no dim feature. If I have the switch turned to full brightness everything works. If I turn the knob slightly as if to dim, everything goes black and etc. Fuse will eventually blow again I'm sure for constant changes of load
 

defadus

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Check the instrument cluster connections, the two on the back of the cluster. The cluster has a plastic sheet circuit board, the tabs can peel up/break off when you plug the connector in,this can cause no connection or even allow them to touch causing a short. If so, carefully straighten the tabs and using a small amount of glue, glue the tab in place and allow to dry completely before reinstalling.
 

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