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Forbidden Fruit, 6.8L PI 2v v10 build
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<blockquote data-quote="Snorky" data-source="post: 1540863" data-attributes="member: 29157"><p>So I started putting green cars engine back together but I may end up trading the turbo setup for a blower setup if 2 of the possible traders get their shit together. So if that happens I would change cams. So I'm leaving the engine together, timed. Followers in but no covers for now.</p><p></p><p>Decided I would focus on the real meat and potatoes. I installed and torqued all of the main bearings 30 lb ft +90° and the side bolts 22 lb ft + 90° and checked bearing clearances using my dial bore gage. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]33457[/ATTACH]</p><p> set the bore gage to the middle of my crank main journal measurements which was 2.6571" and proceeded to check the mains. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]33463[/ATTACH] </p><p></p><p>They were for the most part in tolerance. Kind of egg shaped, im used to machining in the millionths so this stuff is crazy how out they are to me lol. But nonetheless they were in spec and I compared them to their respective journals and they were in the green.</p><p></p><p>Next step on main #4 I swapped the oem bolts for arp studs since I needed the pickup tube stud and tossed in a set of arp side bolts on that one journal. Torqued the mains in 3 easy steps to 60 lb ft. Then the 9mm side bolts to 45 lb ft. Then rechecked main #4 with the bore gage seeing if it would warp requiring a line hone.. it actually made it more in spec and rounder. LoL my coworker and I couldn't believe it. Almost tempted to buy a whole set of v8 2v side bolts and main studs. But that would be $150 for nothing. So I'm running it. Next we flipped the block over and ran a hone through it bathing it in honing oil.[ATTACH=full]33458[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Look at that sweet bore... yeahhh baby[ATTACH=full]33459[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Next I gave everything a final wipe down and slathered all of the bearings with Lucas assembly lube as well as the crank play shims. Dropped the crank in and did the final assembly and torque to spec. Spins slowly but smoothly by hand grabbing the snout with my bear hand, the slowness is more than likely due to the honey on the bearings. Checked end play which is right at .007", right in spec. </p><p> [ATTACH=full]33460[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Thar she blows.. the crank is in. </p><p>Isnt she cute!!! Cute like a stomach pump. [ATTACH=full]33461[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Checked the rod journal sizes and documented those as well.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]33462[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Next time my coworker and I get time we will start checking the rods bearing clearance. If it checks out then it's on to piston rings and rod/piston installation. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> very... very excited!!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Snorky, post: 1540863, member: 29157"] So I started putting green cars engine back together but I may end up trading the turbo setup for a blower setup if 2 of the possible traders get their shit together. So if that happens I would change cams. So I'm leaving the engine together, timed. Followers in but no covers for now. Decided I would focus on the real meat and potatoes. I installed and torqued all of the main bearings 30 lb ft +90° and the side bolts 22 lb ft + 90° and checked bearing clearances using my dial bore gage. [ATTACH=full]33457[/ATTACH] set the bore gage to the middle of my crank main journal measurements which was 2.6571" and proceeded to check the mains. [ATTACH=full]33463[/ATTACH] They were for the most part in tolerance. Kind of egg shaped, im used to machining in the millionths so this stuff is crazy how out they are to me lol. But nonetheless they were in spec and I compared them to their respective journals and they were in the green. Next step on main #4 I swapped the oem bolts for arp studs since I needed the pickup tube stud and tossed in a set of arp side bolts on that one journal. Torqued the mains in 3 easy steps to 60 lb ft. Then the 9mm side bolts to 45 lb ft. Then rechecked main #4 with the bore gage seeing if it would warp requiring a line hone.. it actually made it more in spec and rounder. LoL my coworker and I couldn't believe it. Almost tempted to buy a whole set of v8 2v side bolts and main studs. But that would be $150 for nothing. So I'm running it. Next we flipped the block over and ran a hone through it bathing it in honing oil.[ATTACH=full]33458[/ATTACH] Look at that sweet bore... yeahhh baby[ATTACH=full]33459[/ATTACH] Next I gave everything a final wipe down and slathered all of the bearings with Lucas assembly lube as well as the crank play shims. Dropped the crank in and did the final assembly and torque to spec. Spins slowly but smoothly by hand grabbing the snout with my bear hand, the slowness is more than likely due to the honey on the bearings. Checked end play which is right at .007", right in spec. [ATTACH=full]33460[/ATTACH] Thar she blows.. the crank is in. Isnt she cute!!! Cute like a stomach pump. [ATTACH=full]33461[/ATTACH] Checked the rod journal sizes and documented those as well. [ATTACH=full]33462[/ATTACH] Next time my coworker and I get time we will start checking the rods bearing clearance. If it checks out then it's on to piston rings and rod/piston installation. :) very... very excited!! [/QUOTE]
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