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Discussion in '96-04 - 2V Specific' started by NORTON98, Dec 31, 2006.
Whata all do you need to have "forged internals"
Pistons n rods ;D
that is what I call forged internals then having a NICE crankshaft for high HP output is not a bad idea. And I mean high hp like over 500
The weak link in our motors is the rods, then pistons.
A rotating asembly usually consist's of those.
The stock crank is cast. Most ppl usually get a new forged crank when changing the rotating assembly.
Ok so the rotating assembly consists of everything you need to have forged Internals? Do places sell rotating assemblies with forged internals?
Is the crankshaft part of the rotating assembly?
Thanks I appreciate it!,
There's a number that do.
I got mine from Livernoismotorsports.com
VTengines.com is also good.
There's others, but I like those 2 best.
So if I buy one of those rotating assemblies from Livernois how much will it cost to have it installed?
So this is similair to what you bought and what I would have to buy?
or is there something less pricey?
That' depends on your builder.
If you use your stock block it will need to be pulled out of the car, disassembled, honed and assembled with the new parts.
If you go shortblock (which is a new block with the new rotating assembly already installed) it's remove and replace.
You'll have to check with some local shops.
Yes that's really similar.
I got those same parts, but mine is a stroker crank and rods.
I also used my stock block and just bought the rotating assembly, where that link is a Shortblock.
Mahle pistons are top notch, plus there's ARP studs, and it comes ballanced.
Price is pretty good. you can check around, other shops are a bit more for a similar setup.
O ok this is what you must have gotten........
that strokes you to 5.0 and forges your internals?
Would I need the balanced assembly and the main bearings?
i would suggest if you can do the work yourself then do it yourself. the mod motor is really not a hard motor to work on. trust me i have had my fair number of motor tear downs. id say the only thing that i dont know how to do is file fit and gap rings. other then that its a piece of cake. plus the only real way to learn about our motors is to get knee deep in it. if you can do it yourself your gonna save your self some money for sure. just my opinion though.
Yep, that's what I got.
and yes you'll want new bearings and balanced.
So, how soon are you doing your motor?
yea i agree that the weekest part are the pistons...completly shattered mine in the stock motor with 8 lbs. of boost.. :-X
Jeez...were you tuned? I run 12 psi, and I dont have any issues with a great tune by Ed clark at Steen Racing.
That's the beauty of our stock assembly, about 3 seconds of detonation, and the pistons or rods will explode.
When running under boost.
I know plenty of guys that are ok running over 400 levels, but low margin for error, and like Scarface said - A good Tune is KEY!!! :banana:
When I turn 18...im 16 now but my mom helped buy me the car and she purchased this lame warranty that covers untill may 2008(my birthday). I just need to know these things now because ill prabably need to start saving soon, I only make 500 a month with my part time job.
Im still debating forged internals first then supercharge or supercharge w/ mild boost then forge the internals...
so is that kit you got is all you need to get to forge the internals? since its a stroker how much power does it give ya?
If i get that kit and then run a supercharger ill have to worry about the block spitting wont I?
(just read supercharger sticky)
Well Mike, they're still messing with my car.
It's had 5 pulls on the dyno, virgin motor.
The stroker gained some power, compression's a little lower than before.
The motor is set up for boost, but I haven't bought the turbo's yet.
They're getting the nitrous wraped up, and I'll run that until I can drop the next block of cash on the turbo kit.
Give me a few weeks on some results.
It really comes down to money.
If money's tight, go supercharger at low boost, then do the motor and turn it up baby!
Don't waste your money on dumb ass, low HP bolt on's, like most people do.
Your looking to plan, and I think that's a great idea.
your 16, and have a sweet car there. Save the $ for upgrades that deliver!
Here's what I'd recommend:
The rest (bolt on's) is a waste of $$ for small amounts of power you get - you could be saving that cash for the blower.
Having done most of that stuff, I"d recommend you go that rought.
Gears - good feel, not too expensive.
Mufflers, minor power, Sound! A mustang should have a nice V8 sound to it.
PI heads - definatley. 60 to 100 HP depending on if you do cams and porting.
Blower - best result for your money. Benefit's even more with better heads & cam over the NPI's
beyond that, wheels & tires when it's time, and keep it clean & shiny! :bunny3:
You can run low 400's on the stock assembly.
If you can afford to do the motor and blower, then go for it. 8)
The block splitting is a 5.0 problem, the 4.6 block is good to 1000 HP, it's a nice chunk of steel.
I went stroker because I wanted more low end torque.
All the hype on the piston out of the sleeve and rpms with a stroker is blown out of proportion IMO.
It may be true on cheap ass parts, or some test somewhere, but stroker is where it's at as far as I'm concerned.
Livernois kicks ass.
I'd recommend you read the "PI headswap and you" thread.
I go over what I think of mods, heads being a big part of it.
Since you've got a 98, you'll want to get PI heads/intake.
I wouldn't do just the intake, wait and do them both.
It depends on how much power you want over all thought.
Hope that helps, ask away if you have more ?'s
yea i had two tunes one for non meth for the street and a tune for the meth injection for the occasional stoplight to stoplight over acceleration.. :rollinglaugh:
We'll keep in touch i already ordered the Livernois PI intake kit so ill just pop that in and some gears and then save. muaahaha
already have a few
SLP catted X
SLP loudmouth IIs