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<blockquote data-quote="Snorky" data-source="post: 1574457" data-attributes="member: 29157"><p>Alright, hell has frozen over again. My heads were finished with new manley race master +1mm intake valves and ferrea +1mm exhaust valves. Converted back to regular stock style keepers. If anyone needs any of the Manley single groove keepers.. let me know. Have an engines worth. Couldn't seem to find Ferrea +1mm intake valves that my engine builder wanted. Oh well.. They're back together. Cleaned and stoned the heads.</p><p></p><p>I reused my head gaskets since all I did was bolt them down. I noticed a rivet on each of the head gaskets at the front tang of the head being a problem so I drilled the brass rivet out. Blew the head gasket off and sent it. Cleaned the deck. Screwed my arp2000 head studs down "ball end of the apan wrench tight to simulate what I could do grabbing the stud itself. Torqued the head down 30 x2. 60 x 2 85 x . </p><p>[ATTACH=full]44784[/ATTACH]</p><p>Used some fine sandpaper to lightly touch the cam journals on the heads to make sure nothing snags. Stoned the contact points on the cam journals where the caps meet. Cleaned them. Lubed them with assembly lube. Cleaned and lubed the cams. In they went. Torqued to 96 inch lbs. Put in the lifters that were soaking in oil for what seems like an eternity. Put the chain guides on. Torqued to (90? Inch lbs.) Then did the dot to dot timing since this things been degreed about a thousand times. Lol Used a 51 drill bit as the "grenade" pin on the tensioners(tq to 20 lb ft) [ATTACH=full]44785[/ATTACH]</p><p>Timing cover on. Valve covers on. Idler on. (Tensioner pulley probably needs a new bearing.) Left my sleeve of bearings in the red car) </p><p>[ATTACH=full]44786[/ATTACH]</p><p>Cranked over by hand. Always makes you second guess yourself from the tensioners loosening and tightening as you crank it lol. No ptv. Gapped the old br7ef plugs to .028"[ATTACH=full]44788[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Send them in at 144 in/lbs. And tossed on the balancer arp bot at 100 lb/ft. [ATTACH=full]44787[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I did find it interesting that the new valves didn't require the spring shims that Jordan at mhs put in when he made my heads. I suppose the ferrea exhaust valves with the regular keepers were just at a different height or didn't need extra preload. Not sure the science behind that.[ATTACH=full]44789[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>Anyway... that was enough work for one afternoon. Back feels like a 74 year old man after that lol. Have a week long work trip to Costa Rica again monday... (love finding out about it at Friday at 3 p.m) . Coworker said this coming weekend he could skim cut my headers (he's wayyyyyyy better at fixturing a mill than I am) Then I can finish the rest of the assembly process to leak test.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Snorky, post: 1574457, member: 29157"] Alright, hell has frozen over again. My heads were finished with new manley race master +1mm intake valves and ferrea +1mm exhaust valves. Converted back to regular stock style keepers. If anyone needs any of the Manley single groove keepers.. let me know. Have an engines worth. Couldn't seem to find Ferrea +1mm intake valves that my engine builder wanted. Oh well.. They're back together. Cleaned and stoned the heads. I reused my head gaskets since all I did was bolt them down. I noticed a rivet on each of the head gaskets at the front tang of the head being a problem so I drilled the brass rivet out. Blew the head gasket off and sent it. Cleaned the deck. Screwed my arp2000 head studs down "ball end of the apan wrench tight to simulate what I could do grabbing the stud itself. Torqued the head down 30 x2. 60 x 2 85 x . [ATTACH=full]44784[/ATTACH] Used some fine sandpaper to lightly touch the cam journals on the heads to make sure nothing snags. Stoned the contact points on the cam journals where the caps meet. Cleaned them. Lubed them with assembly lube. Cleaned and lubed the cams. In they went. Torqued to 96 inch lbs. Put in the lifters that were soaking in oil for what seems like an eternity. Put the chain guides on. Torqued to (90? Inch lbs.) Then did the dot to dot timing since this things been degreed about a thousand times. Lol Used a 51 drill bit as the "grenade" pin on the tensioners(tq to 20 lb ft) [ATTACH=full]44785[/ATTACH] Timing cover on. Valve covers on. Idler on. (Tensioner pulley probably needs a new bearing.) Left my sleeve of bearings in the red car) [ATTACH=full]44786[/ATTACH] Cranked over by hand. Always makes you second guess yourself from the tensioners loosening and tightening as you crank it lol. No ptv. Gapped the old br7ef plugs to .028"[ATTACH=full]44788[/ATTACH] Send them in at 144 in/lbs. And tossed on the balancer arp bot at 100 lb/ft. [ATTACH=full]44787[/ATTACH] I did find it interesting that the new valves didn't require the spring shims that Jordan at mhs put in when he made my heads. I suppose the ferrea exhaust valves with the regular keepers were just at a different height or didn't need extra preload. Not sure the science behind that.[ATTACH=full]44789[/ATTACH] Anyway... that was enough work for one afternoon. Back feels like a 74 year old man after that lol. Have a week long work trip to Costa Rica again monday... (love finding out about it at Friday at 3 p.m) . Coworker said this coming weekend he could skim cut my headers (he's wayyyyyyy better at fixturing a mill than I am) Then I can finish the rest of the assembly process to leak test. [/QUOTE]
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