Heads / Cam / Intake... and what else?...

b1pig

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Looks like I have all of the big parts in place. That means I'll be pulling the engine out of the Mustang in the not-to-distant future.

(big) Parts on hand
SVE 170 heads
E-303 cam
Professional Prod Edelbrock copy intake

Things I have not yet ordered, but I'm planning to:
70mm BBK
Set of shorty Headers and catted mid-pipe of some sort... likely catted BBK...

This is basic engine stuff for me. But here is what I'm unsure of moving forward.
Half of the air system on this car was already removed by someone. As I button all of this back up, I will block/remove whatever is left over from the previous owner(s') work.
In my mind's eye, I "should" put a set of slightly larger fuel injectors in it. Not being 100% educated on the way the OEM computer works, I'm guessing I can GET BY on the initial build with the OEM computer. Not being a race car, I just need it to run good. Want to get the car back on the road and driving while I save up the cash to move to a new computer setup.

My long game is to put a Holley Terminator-X Max in it.
That being said... Holley advertises their system to work with the "4R70W" back to 1992? So... that includes the AOD-E in my car? Haven't asked Holley yet, but thought I'd mention it here while I'm thinking "out loud". If anyone has gone this route, I'd appreciate your experience/comment on it.


Anyway.
How far off am I?
Missing something?
 

RAU03MACH

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i take it your not touching the bottom end
pistons, rings, rods, bearings, oil pump
if your pulling the engine not a bad idea to look it over
 
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b1pig

b1pig

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i take it your not touching the bottom end
pistons, rings, rods, bearings, oil pump
if your pulling the engine not a bad idea to look it over
I'll be checking the health.
The bottom end seems good. Immediate oil pressure. 40spi warm at idle. Other indicators seem to show someone was in there once, so it's possible it has been rebuilt.
Only "issue" with the engine is that the oil pan leaks... and it clearly has an aftermarket seal on it.

The transmission also likes to leak around the pan... so it's all getting some attention since I'll have it apart.
 

shovel

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You're going to absolutely not want to fool around with using the OEM computer, plan to have that aftermarket ECU in it right up front. Any effort or money you put into working around the stock ECU won't work how you want and will be wasted when you inevitably go to the aftermarket ECU.

We worked with the OEM computer decades ago because it was the only choice, stuff like today's Holley (and aces and stinger and megasquirt etc) didn't exist so add-on chips were the only option. Not a limitation anymore in 2026. Ditching the MAF is a nice little bonus too.
 

07GtS197

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The aode and 4r70w are one in the same, albeit minor differences like hearing etc. they’re controlled the same so you won’t have an issue there. Even if you don’t plan on opening the transmission, a j mod, new converter and a trans cooler are must haves.
 
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b1pig

b1pig

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Suspension! You'll need it with added power. These cars aren't the best handling with a stock engine.
LMAO... this is where I display my open wallet and point to my two highschool band geeks.

No plans for any changes to suspension. Brakes? Yes. I have that on my radar. While my intent is to put a little more pep in this car's step, I by no means am taking a stab at deeply altering the car's handling. Yet. I've had a number of vehicles over the years with modified suspension and I know the "risks". Maybe I'm starting to show my age a little... but also, I want to keep the car enjoyable to my wife.

This one is a cruiser and will hopefully have a more spirited onramp presence, some curb appeal and ability to not get embarrassed by a Camry at a redlight.
 

Drhoward

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You're going to want some sort of tune, I'd go with 24 pound injectors with your setup and an aftermarket tune or ecu. I have a local guy that tunes my car, it can be done with the stock computer but a lot of people don't want to touch them since they're so finicky
 

BKolic

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The suspension mods are to keep the rear end solid with the added power. Factory rear control arms are sloppy when new much less with worn out bushings. Under a lot of extra torque, the rear end can cut loose and put the car sideways into a wall. You see this in fail videos where idiots punch it with a modded motor and crash. Contro arms are not that costly and might keep you from destroying your car.
 

shovel

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The nice thing with a NA build is they don't really get much of a boost in torque for the first half of the rev range, you go from making like 250lb torque at 2000 rpm to maybe 275lb torque at 2000 rpm. Almost all the gains are from 3k up so it doesn't just switch on power from out of nowhere & if you're driving legal or "close" speeds on public roads the added power won't really change your relationship with the suspension.

All the suspension on my 94 is new.. but it's all stock or stock equivalent. Just M-3075-D front arms and monotube KYB's.
 
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