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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Manxmann" data-source="post: 1150746" data-attributes="member: 18079">Thanks guys, the way I did it was ala the haynes manual i.e.From under the car I pulled the T where all three cables meet towards the back of the car 2-3", this wound up the spring.Using a 3mm allen key I locked off the spring by pushing it through the side hole in the park brake handle assembly.Replaced all three cables.Replaced pads.Removed pin and slowly allowed spring to unwind tacking up slack.The cables are now taught with the handbrake released, so it seems the brake adjuster is working ie. no slack and when you pull up the brake it engages on the ratchet right at the end of the toothed section, the end nearest the back of the car. So again it looks like the new cables have removed all the stretch that built up over the years, as the cables stretch the bobin rotates further round moving the bite point on the ratchet further back the toothed section i.e. towards the engine.So it all seems to be working as it should, its just crap. Even if I can get it working briefly just to get it through this damn test I'll be happy.If I could get the ratchet to bite sooner, the handle lower down, it would at least mean I have more 'pull' on the cables. That said it only moves up about 2" at the very tip before it bites and starts to rotate the bobin at the moment.Short of grabbing my welder and doing the foxy body mod when fitting sn95 handbrake/rear discs, which I really don't want to do I'm stumped.</blockquote>