HELP! - Parl Brake / Emergency Brake / Handbrake

[Manxmann]

Hey Folks,

Needing some urgent advice, my 99 New Edge V6 needs to pass an 'import' safety test before I can register her locally.

Took her up for the test the other day and she failed but only on one thing handbrake function!

The tester said that the handbrake was not holding at the required 16% gradient and probably just needs adjusting. I wish!

I've spent a lot of time researching what seems a common problem. Given the unit is self adjusting I checked how taught the cable was going into the spring loaded bobin of the handbrake, the answer not very. With the handbrake off the cable was quite limp, engaging the brake caused the ratchet to grab on the last couple of teeth and resulted in very little cable movement even at full application. Cable stretch was my guess.

I've now fitted three new cables and a new set of rear brake pads. The cable is now taught, even with the handbrake off and the ratchet engages on the 2nd tooth.

All good but ....... the brake is still pretty crap. The pads need to bed in a bit before I get her re-tested however I'm still concerned that it won't be enough.

Does anyone have any suggestions? The rear callipers are a bit rusty, not enough to be flagged during the inspection, would replacing them be an option? How good is the handbrake when working properly?

Cheers guys

 

[MustangChris]

were either of your rear calipers seized?? did the pistons flow okay when you compressed them to replace the pads?

 

[Manxmann]

Whilst a bit rusty on the outside they both seemed fine, retracting easily. During the test they check for brake balance and it wasn't highlighted as a problem so pretty much assume they're ok just not pretty.

 

[MustangChris]

you guys have hard-core inspections. I've never heard of half of these inspections. lol.

 

[Manxmann]

Yeah its a right PITA, that said it only applies when you first register the car after that there's no annual inspection so I guess they're trying to catch anything even the slightest fault. Given mines an auto this is especially annoying as the tranny lockup means the state of the handbrake pretty much doesn't matter.

 

[Slykin]

I think I heard somewhere that if you replace the cable attached to the E-Brake handle(the short one) that you have to clock the spring around or something of that nature.. I'm really not sure though, i've never had a working e-brake.

 

[Steve-Oh]

I thought there was a how-to on adjusting the e-brake lever. I did it in mine MANY years ago and can't remember how. I do remember having to pull the center console to gain access.


Edit: this sounds better. . .

I think I heard somewhere that if you replace the cable attached to the E-Brake handle(the short one) that you have to clock the spring around or something of that nature.. I'm really not sure though, i've never had a working e-brake.

 

[Manxmann]

Thanks guys, the way I did it was ala the haynes manual i.e.

From under the car I pulled the T where all three cables meet towards the back of the car 2-3", this wound up the spring.

Using a 3mm allen key I locked off the spring by pushing it through the side hole in the park brake handle assembly.

Replaced all three cables.

Replaced pads.

Removed pin and slowly allowed spring to unwind tacking up slack.

The cables are now taught with the handbrake released, so it seems the brake adjuster is working ie. no slack and when you pull up the brake it engages on the ratchet right at the end of the toothed section, the end nearest the back of the car. So again it looks like the new cables have removed all the stretch that built up over the years, as the cables stretch the bobin rotates further round moving the bite point on the ratchet further back the toothed section i.e. towards the engine.

So it all seems to be working as it should, its just crap. Even if I can get it working briefly just to get it through this damn test I'll be happy.

If I could get the ratchet to bite sooner, the handle lower down, it would at least mean I have more 'pull' on the cables. That said it only moves up about 2" at the very tip before it bites and starts to rotate the bobin at the moment.

Short of grabbing my welder and doing the foxy body mod when fitting sn95 handbrake/rear discs, which I really don't want to do I'm stumped.