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Message: <blockquote data-quote="ttocs" data-source="post: 1194068" data-attributes="member: 11896">no.  When you start to pull fuses we are measuring current, not voltage and it is also important that you hook it up correctly and not measure it like you do voltage.  When measuring voltage you keep the battery connected to the car and just touch one meter-lead to one side of the battery and the other lead to the other post.  When measuring current you need to disconnect the battery first(doesn't matter if you disconnect the +/-) and then put your meter in between the battery and the lead you disconnected.  This way any current that is used goes through the meter, then back to the car which is how the meter needs to read it.  So to make all that technical crap easy:1.)disconnect battery terminal again it does NOT matter which one.2.)set your meter to DC-current which is normally abbreviated to the term I(C was used already) and is measure in Amps, or today for us in mA(milliamps).  The AC/DC voltage setting is normally switched with a small separate button from the large selector dial in the middle of most meters again just be sure the display says DC.3.)Take your meter, connect one lead to the now disconnected battery terminal, connect the other lead to the disconnected batter cable.  It doesn't matter if you match +/+ or -/-(infact it should be +/- _ +/- if you want to get technical) on the battery/meter leads if you have them backward the current reading will still be the same it will just show up as the same negative number.  So if you hook it up and it tells you that you have a -4mA reading you actually have 4mA just ignore the negative sign.4.)see what the initial reading is, then start pulling fuses one at a time or if you can see if jiggling the ignition does anything as well.Once you figure out what circuits are causing the problem from the fusebox then we will need to narrow it down further and see if we can find the individual circuits that are protected by the fuse and disconnect them too see if with the fuse now in place by disconnecting that individual piece if we again see the current drop.  I can't remember if we covered it or not but the mach amps have been causing battery drain problems over the past few years.  You may even have one under your radio even if you do not have the mach tweeter pods/enclosure and it can be causing this.</blockquote>