IRS swapping my cobra

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Tim300wsm

Tim300wsm

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was it in a fire? For that price I wouldn't care if it were....
No in person it looks perfect. It feels new when you turn the pinion. It’s in much better shape than I hoped for
 

ttocs

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well shit. That kinda sucks I mean if I got it at that price I would HAVE to start considering having it powder coated and made all perty... Hopefully your not like me.
 
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Tim300wsm

Tim300wsm

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well shit. That kinda sucks I mean if I got it at that price I would HAVE to start considering having it powder coated and made all perty... Hopefully your not like me.
I’m too cheap and poor to be like you lol. I would like to but I can’t take money away from other upgrades. Also I think I’m going to respray the car so that will be a big outlay
 

cobrajeff96

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Let me know if you need any parts, I still have a bunch leftover from when I last touched my IRS.
 
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Tim300wsm

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I’m Getting the parts together to put it in and would like to use new hardware. I see full tilt boogie racing has a lot of hardware listed and was hoping that’s everything I will need hardware wise. Is there anything they don’t have there?
 

cobrajeff96

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They might not have the toe links (tie rods) but not 100% sure. MM's are probably the best as far as those.

The OEM forward torque brace is ass just so you know. Having one is a must and ideally it's a fabbed/welded one. But the OEM brace is better than no brace at all. Same for the OEM diff cover - don't use it! They shatter easily.
 
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Tim300wsm

Tim300wsm

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They might not have the toe links (tie rods) but not 100% sure. MM's are probably the best as far as those.

The OEM forward torque brace is ass just so you know. Having one is a must and ideally it's a fabbed/welded one. But the OEM brace is better than no brace at all. Same for the OEM diff cover - don't use it! They shatter easily.
Will do. I am trying to get all new nuts and bolts as well. Im not looking to reuse 20 year old hardware but I’m having trouble finding exactly what I will need
 

Warhorse Racing

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I've used the OEM front torque brace for several seasons on 2 autocross cars and I've never had an issue. I'm sure aftermarket versions are better, but I've never felt the need to install one. I've also used the OEM IRS hardware in most places and it has held up fine. The FTBR lower subrame bolts, camber bolts, and low-profile IRS bracket bolts are good options. Otherwise, the OEM hardware with some blue threadlocker where necessary will suffice (if it's in good condition).

I've used the FTBR toe links on my 2004 V6 and the OEM toe links on my 2000 GT; both have held up very well under autocross conditions.

It's definitely a good idea to change the differential cover to a stronger one. It's a lot of work to get the diff out to change the cover if it breaks.
 

cobrajeff96

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Yea, OEM bolts are just fine. Just take a wire wheel and brake cleaner to them to make sure the threads don't get galled up on re-tighening after years of corrosion built up if any. They're all grade 8 or higher so over-torquing them is not likely. Even if nyloc nuts are all worn down and no longer locking, do like Warhorse said and thread lock them. Just make sure the only places you use red threadlocker are wheel bearing nuts and pinion flanges, because the only way to safely brake the bonds for maintenance is to take propane heat to them. Not something you want to have to do for all the suspension linkages and whatever else. Blue threadlocker is just the ticket.

And you can pretty much never over-torque a wheel bearing nut. In fact the more torque the better. You'd basically take the longest breaker bar you can find and put everything you have into it along with the red threadlocker. Between those and that fact that the newer nuts are distorted thread locking types, you can have peace of mind going down the road or the track. Use anti seize on parts that sandwich together like the face of the hub, the back and front of the rotor hat, and the rear face of the wheel. Not a lot, just a light film so it doesn't go slinging everywhere.
 

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