Yea, OEM bolts are just fine. Just take a wire wheel and brake cleaner to them to make sure the threads don't get galled up on re-tighening after years of corrosion built up if any. They're all grade 8 or higher so over-torquing them is not likely. Even if nyloc nuts are all worn down and no longer locking, do like Warhorse said and thread lock them. Just make sure the only places you use red threadlocker are wheel bearing nuts and pinion flanges, because the only way to safely brake the bonds for maintenance is to take propane heat to them. Not something you want to have to do for all the suspension linkages and whatever else. Blue threadlocker is just the ticket.
And you can pretty much never over-torque a wheel bearing nut. In fact the more torque the better. You'd basically take the longest breaker bar you can find and put everything you have into it along with the red threadlocker. Between those and that fact that the newer nuts are distorted thread locking types, you can have peace of mind going down the road or the track. Use anti seize on parts that sandwich together like the face of the hub, the back and front of the rotor hat, and the rear face of the wheel. Not a lot, just a light film so it doesn't go slinging everywhere.