Its thats suspension time!

B.mad · Sep 2, 2014

So my exhaust is 2/3's done, motor is good currently for a 94 GT DD. Getting a new clutch and shifter soon. So now its suspension time. This is my DD/canyon rider. Currently I have koni orange (on) and steeda x2 bj's coming in this week. I plan on doing a 90% suspension upgrade.

What I have plan is
H&R SS springs with new front isos and no rear isos
J&M rear upper and lower control arms (not the weight jackers)
MM CC plates
MM full length subframes
new tie rods (might as well)
front and rear sway bar upgrades

now the questions:
1.)bumpsteer kit, pros and cons?
2.) team z bumpsteer, MM, or steeda?
3.) offset steering rack bushings? non offset? or MM aluminum steering rack bushings?
4.) UPR spherical axle bushings? or just regular protane?
5.) MM panhard bar? or no?
6.) team z non adjustable front control arm? QA1? or stock?

any other things i am missing? or should not get? or opinions?suggestions?

RichV · Sep 2, 2014

Well, I'll give you my true opinion. After writing the same suspension recipe time and time again I'll do it one more time. This the opinion of a guy that has done everything in a Foxbody from road racing, drag racing, showing, and even the occasional canyon cruise. There are more than 1 answers, so by all means ask additional questions, or add your own experiences.

If you want to spend money just to have shiny parts, so you can brag about big names at Sonic, or you want to have an impressive sig on your favorite forum, I don't really care. If you want to be the lowest guy in the hood or think you need the full MM suspension to go to Burger King, only on evenings when no rain is scheduled of course, don't care. Because there are a lot more of those than people that will actually use their modded suspension.

Flame suit on headlight polishers!!

If you want the car to handle, here is a sure fire recipe for success. This is what I would do for a street friendly setup.
1. Subframes, absolutely necessary. Must be installed right. Pref: MM
2. Springs/Shocks. Matched rates. Pref: H&R SS/Race, Billstein HD
3. Front LCA, change to standard poly bushings. Pref: Energy/Prothane
4. Rear LCA, new with poly bushings. Pref: MM SD/HD units, also standard J&M
5. Rear UCA, OEM Ford with new bushings and new axle bushings. Pref: Moog replacement if OE is not available
6. MM CC plates. Installed with 4 bolts.
7. Energy/Prothane rack bushings, not offset.
8. Bumpsteer kit. Pref: QA1 or Steeda
...and the most important...
9. Tires. Lowest wear rating you can, but a street car I would not go under 200. Then get a performance alignment.

So to the OP, the X2 BJ is good. H&Rs are good, ISOs are optional, may want them on for a street car. The orange Koni is a OE replacement, you'll most likely cash them in relatively quick.

now the questions:
1.)bumpsteer kit, pros and cons?
pro-it fixes bumpsteer con-it needs setup correctly with a bumpsteer gauge
2.) team z bumpsteer, MM, or steeda?
designs are very similar to all these, MM or Steeda for me
3.) offset steering rack bushings? non offset? or MM aluminum steering rack bushings?
not offset poly, specially with a bumpsteer
4.) UPR spherical axle bushings? or just regular protane?
OEM rubber for a street car
5.) MM panhard bar? or no?
no, not worth any 'street gains'. Don't care how many tell you it drives like a new car, it don't without a TA it's still the same design
6.) team z non adjustable front control arm? QA1? or stock?
spend money if you want, the stocker gets it done

rz5.0 · Sep 2, 2014

^^^plain and simple.

Addermk2 · Sep 2, 2014

Caveat... replace the stock rear upper control arms with hotchkis double adjustable arms.

Better then stock and have the ability to set pinion angle.

B.mad · Sep 3, 2014

Well, I dont really want that bragging stuff, not into it haha just want it for me. I have a 72 mustang that i am going to do some heavy suspension work for road racing and i want to use my 94 as a practice car. Obviously tires are 70% of your handling, i have already decided for R888's. Going to have a track set (toyos 17x9 all around) and a DD set (nt555 17x9 17x10.5). I might do some racing on go cart tracks but not toooo common, i just want to have that ambiguity for when i want to get on it because i love pushing me cars. I really do want ss springs and eventually i will get koni yellows, or bilsteins. I do not want to say money is no issue (because it kind of is), but all these parts will be acquired through out time. Just need to know what route i am taking. which is way i am asking because ive heard to many mixed reviews about bumpsteer kits. I know that the rear upper control is better kept stock to allow the rear to be able to turn a little in corners, but i think aftermarket uppers can do a better job in the turns right?

I know these cars are very tail happy, and rear suspension binding seems to be an issue (dont know what that means exactly soooo please explain). These cars arent meant to handle turns but they can. So i pretty much have the basics of it handled. Just wasnt sure of the bushings to use mostly. I dont want my car to be sooo low. Seem to many cars at the track just slide, and i dont want to to stiff for the same reason. I just want it to handle turns smoothly and nicely. THis is for me not for others, so i dont mind spending money on stuff if its worth it

B.mad · Sep 3, 2014

Addermk2 said:
Caveat... replace the stock rear upper control arms with hotchkis double adjustable arms.

Better then stock and have the ability to set pinion angle.

i dont see any gains in having adjustable control arms for a street car, i dont know to much about tuning suspension so itll be a waste to me, especially because i want to do most work myself. But ive heard they wooork good nonetheless.

Addermk2 · Sep 3, 2014

Its your car. If you want sub-par performance... its on you.

RichV · Sep 3, 2014

Adjustability can add another level complexness, or can be tailored to the track or conditions. I prefer not to have to monkey with stuff.

On the UCA, Adder is right on the pinion adjustment. Although unless you make a lot of changes the stock angle works fine. Drag racing may be another story.

The Fox chassis is opposite of tail happy. They push like a mo-fo, you need to increase front grip or decrease rear grip to balance the car. All the parts above, alignment, and sticky tires. R888 will work, they are a r-comp tire with a wear rating of 100.

B.mad · Sep 3, 2014

Addermk2 said:
Its your car. If you want sub-par performance... its on you.

how is that sub par? If i cant tune my car then what is the point?

B.mad · Sep 3, 2014

RichV said:
Adjustability can add another level complexness, or can be tailored to the track or conditions. I prefer not to have to monkey with stuff.

On the UCA, Adder is right on the pinion adjustment. Although unless you make a lot of changes the stock angle works fine. Drag racing may be another story.

The Fox chassis is opposite of tail happy. They push like a mo-fo, you need to increase front grip or decrease rear grip to balance the car. All the parts above, alignment, and sticky tires. R888 will work, they are a r-comp tire with a wear rating of 100.

i am not too knowledgeable on determining pinion angles. please enlighten me.

I want to have a well balanced car. I know the weight distribution is 57/43. I have the tires, springs, and shocks pretty much checked out. I do not know jack poop about geometry and angles on these cars.

RichV · Sep 3, 2014

Building a car from internet info is hard to do, as the builder. There are many things that you are being told to do without understanding why. This is where the disconnect is from experiencing the before/after.

If I took you out in my 94 when it had a stock rear end and suspension, and you felt the ass end of the car go from side to side under threshold braking just before turn-in you'd understand why you're replacing those parts.

So my advice is to hit a track day. Keep it the way it is, and learn where the car needs help. And step by step you will get there. Then one day the BMW guys are wondering what a SN95 is doing on their bumper. Or even passing.

B.mad · Sep 4, 2014

RichV said:
Building a car from internet info is hard to do, as the builder. There are many things that you are being told to do without understanding why. This is where the disconnect is from experiencing the before/after.

If I took you out in my 94 when it had a stock rear end and suspension, and you felt the ass end of the car go from side to side under threshold braking just before turn-in you'd understand why you're replacing those parts.

So my advice is to hit a track day. Keep it the way it is, and learn where the car needs help. And step by step you will get there. Then one day the BMW guys are wondering what a SN95 is doing on their bumper. Or even passing.

well ive felt what needs to be done on the car, the only thing i dont know about really is binding of the rear suspension. I do not know how that feels or what to look for. also another thing is geometry and angles, if i know how to do that i can tune my own suspension. as of now all i go on is feel and what needs to be done. Ive done track days on my 72 so i know somewhat what to expect and what to improve, except on the 72, i do not have to worry to much about the rear since its leafs. the front however is still 90% the same. I just need help understand the rear ends on the sn95