low end power fo 95 cobra
- Thread starter mattyh
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Burninrock24
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Those things are torque monsters! You want more?? Do you have gears? Those will give you the biggest gains on the low-end butt dyno.
CC'S95GT
Post Whore
What do you have your timing set to?
Do you have CATS and how old are they?
Do you have CATS and how old are they?
OnyxCobra
Post Whore
Advance your timing to 12 degrees BTC. Then gears. This is assuming you have fresh plugs, wires, disty cap/rotor, etc. A little more info on the car would be good.
OnyxCobra
Post Whore
hmm with those mods your car really shouldn't feel sluggish, maybe you're just used to it? for the timing you need a timing light. loosen the bolt that holds your distributor and unplug the spout connector next to the pass side fender, let the car idle. you clip the timing light to the #1 plug wire and aim the light at your harmonic balancer. you turn the disty slowly until the arrow points to the #12. stock should be 10 degrees.
CC'S95GT
Post Whore
what plugs did you use. Typically 5.0 don't like platimiums.
Addermk2
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should be running 764's
also, quoting times on a "stock cobra with a turbo" is a waste of time. There isnt nearly enough info to make a solid guess. but it should break 13's!
also, quoting times on a "stock cobra with a turbo" is a waste of time. There isnt nearly enough info to make a solid guess. but it should break 13's!
wayne94mustang
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An old school free mod for low end torque is to unshroud the electrode on your spark plugs buy filing the ground strap back so it don't cover the electrode. I like to go about 1/2 way back when looking down on the plug.
An automatic car will see more gains I found but it does work, you can even buy plugs like this.
An automatic car will see more gains I found but it does work, you can even buy plugs like this.
If you advance the timing you also have to run higher octane fuel. 91 or 93 whatever you have in your area. If not you will get detonation and that will lead to not so good things. Just figured Id throw it out there since the majority of the time when people say to advance the timing they neglect to say you also have to run higher octane fuel with it.
If you have no underlying issues with the car and everything is running correct then get a set of gears and advance the timing. It will improve how it feels ten fold. 3.55's 3.73's are a popular gear options for most daily driven street cars.
If you have no underlying issues with the car and everything is running correct then get a set of gears and advance the timing. It will improve how it feels ten fold. 3.55's 3.73's are a popular gear options for most daily driven street cars.
Addermk2
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since when has advancing the base timing from 10* led to not having to run higher octane fuel lol. I suppose if you only went up 1* it would not matter but anytime Ive gone to 14* or so Its always required higher octane fuel to ward off detention
OnyxCobra
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fwiw my 5.0 ran for years with platinum plugs with no problems.
robb15033
Well-Known Member
Gears & a custom dyno tune should do the trick no doubt. Contact the Mustang shop prior to the dyno runs to see what they suggest is done to maximize the results of the new CPU files.
I know an old racer who had a Fiat that would ping with almost any fuel.
When he found pump gas that wouldn't ping in his Fiat he would fill a couple jerry cans and use that in his race car. As often as it came out of the premium pump, it also came out of the 87 octane.
Detonation resistance is sometimes more determined by how much contamination is in the tank than the grade on the pump.
Generalities are easy to find exceptions to but you may have to run premium fuel if you advance your timing.
When he found pump gas that wouldn't ping in his Fiat he would fill a couple jerry cans and use that in his race car. As often as it came out of the premium pump, it also came out of the 87 octane.
Detonation resistance is sometimes more determined by how much contamination is in the tank than the grade on the pump.
Generalities are easy to find exceptions to but you may have to run premium fuel if you advance your timing.
Addermk2
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absolute nonsense. My 347 was running 5° more total timing than stock on 89 octane with 11.25:1 compression. The usual cause for pre-ignition on most peoples SBF's is lean fuel mixtures, and carbon deposits. How many people do you think we have running around on here with >75,000 miles and still rocking their factory O2 sensors? Probably most! People are under the misunderstanding that you dont need to change an O2 until it throws a code. O2 sensors should be changed roughly every 50k-60k miles (as a standard) also, just because an O2 is still working, doesn't mean its working right. O2's can start to switch slowly, causing excessive AFR swings. Also, did you know that a simple problem like a dirty MAF can throw off your AFR by 1.5 or more!
lets also consider the recent changes in fuel content. We are all aware that the fuel served up at the pump now "contains up to 10% ethanol" right? Well consider the effects that the ethanol content has on the overall quality of the fuel. The stuff we use now burns cooler and at a slightly higher RON than the old MTBE added regular unleaded fuels of the mid 90's.
Bumping your timing 2-3° will not cause any detonation issues by itself. There are other factors that will cause the problems to arise. Ultimately raising your timing blindly will actually have ill effects on your emissions and fuel consumption more than it'll increase your power.
True but saying that you will never have to run higher octane fuel is a misconception as well. Some cars could require it while others wont. All depends on the car, such as some cars will take 14* without pinging while others will take 16*. Either way its a good rule of thumb to listen for pinging and if it does either back the timing back or run a higher octane fuel
