Satin Colors?!?

[Ineedav8]

I've been contemplating on going with a satin black from Eastwood single stage urethane deal for my sn. But doesn't orange peel occur ? and from what I've been reading you can not wetsand and polish satin?? Is orange peel a problem when laying satin down and how glossy does it look if it does any help would be appreciated thanks!

 

[Orange 94]

[MENTION=8033]Suspect[/MENTION] get in here

 

[ttocs]

if you lay it down well enough it should not be an issue.

 

[Ferocious]

You could always just get it wrapped for cheaper and you won't have to worry about orange peel.



Also, Satan ftw!

 

[DropTopPony]

No experience painting with it but I do like the satin white look. I have seen it a lot recently on Euro cars.

 

[Suspect]

i had no problems with orange peel. and nope if it gets scratched it wont polish out. panel will have to get sprayed again. sadly when mine was done i was still working on it, so i do have some scratches.. from the motor being taken out twice. i know now to throw covers over it, but ill more than likely get it painted again soon.

still looks good though..

 

[OnyxCobra]

There will probably still be a certain amount of orange peel but because it's not a straight gloss finish it won't appear nearly as much. Dipping it is an option too.

 

[Ineedav8]

Sweet thanks guys and yeah I was thinking along the lines of dipping but I doesn't have the glossyish flat like satin tone I have my wheels dipped currently but after awhile there fading. But thanks Suspect for the heads up. But I'll probably buy a hood or something and kill some paint practicing

 

[OnyxCobra]

Sweet thanks guys and yeah I was thinking along the lines of dipping but I doesn't have the glossyish flat like satin tone I have my wheels dipped currently but after awhile there fading. But thanks Suspect for the heads up. But I'll probably buy a hood or something and kill some paint practicing

when you spray a car you can mix gloss with the standard matte colors and get a satin finish. What color are you wheels dipped? the only colors that really have a fade problem are the florescent ones.

 

[Ineedav8]

Never new that I thought it was just some chemical or agent in it that took away the gloss and if you polished it it would show again and the canned black pita to get brake dust out of and I can see the silver face of the wheel barely

 

[ttocs]

I have been painting my own stuff with rattle cans for a while and got to the point I could get good results from them. I have always enjoyed painting and wanted to get into it so I got a gun last year to do my own car with. Remember if your changing colors and finishes to satin that you will need to do all the door jams and other spots to get it to look right. The paint gun of course is just the small part as you will need a 60 gallon compressor, filter/dryer and a clean place to do it all. Not sure what you would all need for equipment but if its too much I would consider a wrap myself.

 

[Ineedav8]

Yup that was the plan I was going to pull the interior out and just spray it all down and I believe I have a 60 may be a 55 no gun no filter and I have a 2 car garage filled with stuff worse comes to worse I'll skip Satan and just get a respray of the moonlight blue

 

[ttocs]

pull the interior to paint the exterior?

 

[Ineedav8]

No my bad lol that sounds stupid but just a quick spray just because I hate the way if you do a color change and you have to pull up the carpet for whatever reason it's a different color

 

[whiplash473]

I've been contemplating on going with a satin black from Eastwood single stage urethane deal for my sn. But doesn't orange peel occur ? and from what I've been reading you can not wetsand and polish satin?? Is orange peel a problem when laying satin down and how glossy does it look if it does any help would be appreciated thanks!

No, satin/matte/flat paint is nothing but a thicker basecoat. Orange peel is the way the clear coat lays, not the basecoat. It can if you use absolute shit paint, but that's another story. Assuming everything is done correctly with decent product then no, orange peel will not occur or will be very minimal (depending on how good of an eye you have for these things.)

You're also correct in the fact that there is no sanding/buffing. So make sure you spray it in a clean environment. If you have questions as to what I mean by "clean" then please ask.

 

[OnyxCobra]

you can add a flattening agent to clear coat so that it dries with sort of a satin finish. i had it done on the underside of my hood so i could still clean/wax it like normal paint.

 

[whiplash473]

you can add a flattening agent to clear coat so that it dries with sort of a satin finish. i had it done on the underside of my hood so i could still clean/wax it like normal paint.

What you're talking about is what we (and most other shops) do for trim pieces on bumper covers on the nicer trim packages. What you're saying is correct but you still can't sand/buff it.

EDIT: Such as the lower piece of the rear cover on this Enclave.

 

[Ineedav8]

Alright thanks man I've read constantly about painting and been tempted going to pick up a replacement bumper and hood to practice. Sweet I didn't think it'd hurt to ask and I have a very picky eye for small things. And by you mean clean you mean totally sealed off sorta deal with proper ventilation damp floors supposedly help that I read no dust absolutely anywhere such as jambs or so be it for when the gun passes it it'll blow it into the air like spotless I would imagine right? I've read your how to paint thread a couple times to get a rough idea

 

[ttocs]

I am going to be painting my car myself hopefully before the winter. I am going to be building a diy paint booth to do it, do a search on youtube and there are vids there that show how to do it for cheap. You don't have to be in a booth I have talked to people that have painted outside before but just like any painting what you get out is directly related to what you put into it and its all about the prep. Yes you need to get rid of all the dust on the area painted prior to shooting. I start off with a lent free rag and a liquid paint prep that gets an waxes, residue or other crap off of the surface. Then I go back over the same area with a tack cloth and the air chuck on the compressor. The tach cloth is basically a large piece of gauze that has a sticky sap on it so that as you wipe it over the surface it will pick up any dust left over and the air chuck helps to blow into corner/areas that the cloth may not work as well. Finally after all that you are ready to mix/shoot.

 

[whiplash473]

Alright thanks man I've read constantly about painting and been tempted going to pick up a replacement bumper and hood to practice. Sweet I didn't think it'd hurt to ask and I have a very picky eye for small things. And by you mean clean you mean totally sealed off sorta deal with proper ventilation damp floors supposedly help that I read no dust absolutely anywhere such as jambs or so be it for when the gun passes it it'll blow it into the air like spotless I would imagine right? I've read your how to paint thread a couple times to get a rough idea

You've got the right idea. No matter what, you're gonna get dirts in it. The $10k SprayBake booth we have at work gets dirts with me blowing myself off, putting on a spray suit, and spraying a single piece on a horse, not even attached to the vehicle... Still get dirts. Bottom line is just do everything you can to prevent it, it's gonna happen but the more effort you put ino preventing it the more minimal the problem of dirt nibs is gonna be.

Also, if you're doing this in your garage, be sure to remove any shine products such as ArmorAll, any tire shine, anything greasy really. They'll cause fisheyes even if they are across the room. Damp floors, as you mentioned, definitely help. There's an enormous difference between spraying on a wet floor and a dry one. The simple act of walking around kicks up dust from the floor even if you can't see it and where's it gonna go? You got it, right in your damn paint job since it's wet and/or sticky.

I know I've got a TON of things to add to the "how to paint" thread but hopefully that helped you out some.

EDIT: Also, yes, clean the living snots out of any jamb that you're gonna be spraying across. Clean the entire thing, not just the edges. Jambs, corners, pockets, that's all areas for shit to sit in and it doesn't take much of that shit to blow out to nuke a paint job. With clear it sucks because then you've got a lot more to sand/buff but in your case...well...you know.