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Message: <blockquote data-quote="weendoggy" data-source="post: 1490571" data-attributes="member: 23340">I'll give you a quarters worth. <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite6" alt=":cool:" title="Cool    :cool:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":cool:" />To start, glad you got the cables on the way as they will most definitely be very helpful. Not so much the "Y" but when you have the LCD plugged in and not using the "Y", you'll always unplug it to plug in the PC cable. Plus, you can view both at the same time. Win win!I too would ditch the CCRM part controlling the fan circuit. Controlling the fan with Sniper would be with the LT-BL wire on the 10 pin connector, which is ground activated. I like to use grounds to activate my relays. On a 4-pin relay that would be 85. 86 will be a 12v key/on or battery constant, 87 is the feed to the fan itself and 30 is a good 12v battery source. Once the Sniper hits your target temperature it will close the circuit to "85" and ground it activating the relay/fan. This would be totally separate from the CCRM. I have a '93 wiring diagram so I'll look for the fan circuit.I never implied you had a tune installed so forgive me if I came across that way. Not intended. I know how frustrating this can be and believe me, my friends have me wire their cars because they get confused. Once you get the cables you can program via the laptop if you want prior to the LCD arriving. If the ECU (on the TB) is not damaged, it'll read just fine. Also, you MUST use either a CD box or the coil driver to run that Hyperspark (or Dual Sync: my favorite) distributor. If you had a RTR distributor you could wire it direct (no coil driver needed), but will not control timing table.The biggest thing is to make sure of all your wiring/setup for the Sniper. Double and triple check if needed. The best thing is get the latest wiring diagram from Holley's site if you don't have one for the Sniper.</blockquote>