Sniper EFI wiring

Hopelessly-Devoted

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I'm just come right out and ask, has anyone ever successfully installed a Sniper EFI (550-516) in a 94 or 95 with a 5.0? I also have a Terminator X still in the box that turned out to be a disappointment. That's a discussion for later. In a nutshell here is where I am at and hope someone can help me out:
1. I think I fried the touch screen, so I need to get a replacement. Worked with some people on the Holley forum to test it, pretty sure it's gone.
2. I essentially removed all of the wires to old ECM, leaving only the ones needed (oil pressure, VSS etc.).
3. Now when I turn the ignition to "run" the cooling fan turns on. Turn the ignition off, fan goes off. It should be temp controlled, right? Obviously, I missed a wire someplace (whether it's a connection or a cut).
4. This what I think fried the touch screen. Dark green/yellow wire, according to the schematic, comes from the inertia switch/fuel pump relay. Light blue/orange comes off the CCM next to the overflow tank. Large blue wire from Sniper is used to connect to the fuel pump wiring.
a. Large blue wire to light blue/orange, no fuel pump
b. Large blue with to dark green/yellow, no fuel pump
c. Large blue wire to dark green/yellow and light blue/orange, fuel pump works.
d. Like to cooling fan, the pump does not shut off after primping the system when ignition is set to run.

O2 sensor is installed and connected. The 10 pin connector has no connections to it for the fan, A/C cutoff and so on. I am running a Holley HyperSpark distributor (hoping to make my life easier) with a steel gear installed.
Touch screen was powering on up to the point where I got fuel pump working, the O2 and the HyperSpark installed. Like I said, my money is on the fuel pump wiring.
I was going to run the wizard to get things set up when I discovered the DOA touch screen.
I have other questions about the wiring, but need to get back to square one and get the touch screen working.

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Thanks in advance
 

ttocs

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I have the hp in my 94 and been happy with it once I got through the growing pains of learning how to use it. I read on fb the other day that holleys computers have been down now for a couple of weeks and they don't know when they will be up, possibly a ransomware attack but not confirmed so getting anything from them I hear is at a standstill.

Yes the fan should only come on if its over the temp that you set for it to turn on at. What temp did you set it for?

I am not sure why your using the output from the ccrm for anything fuel related. You would be better off installing a relay to power it as the ccrms are getting known to be a little touchy after all the years. But the green/yellow is listed as going from the inertia switch to the pump then that is the wire that needs to see power to turn the pump on. Check to see if you have power before the inertia switch, there are two wires going to it one in/one out and they both should be hot with the key on.
 

Hopelessly-Devoted

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Unfortunately, I never got to the point of setting a temp for the fan. I'll check the dk grn/ylw wire after work today and see if it's getting 12v.

You say the CCM gets touchy, isn't that where the cooling fan is wired from? I could be wrong (and usually am, just ask my wife).
 

Hopelessly-Devoted

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ttocs, I forgot to mention the Sniper EFI large blue fuel pump wire has a relay already installed in it. Would I need to install a second one?
 

ttocs

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the fan setting might be low enough that it is turning on, is the coolant temp reading?

I replaced my fan with a standard 2 wire fan and installed a relay. I never looked into keeping the ccrm just because I have read about more people having issues with them. You can use a PWM module to save some current if you want to get fancy but I would not put a new system into an old module if you can help it.

if the fuel pump outout can support 20-30 amps then it should be fine
 

weendoggy

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LB/O is the ground side of the FP relay which will close the relay via PCM as it gets 12v from 86. Then it allows the pump contact PNK/BK wire (fused) to connect to fuel pump DG\Y.

What you need to do is eliminate the Ford PCM from the Holley setup completely. The blue Holley wire is already going through their relay and sends power to the pump. Also, you NEED to have a tune in the Holley before it will activate the "timer" to allow the pump to prime. Then the ECU will take over once RPM is seen.

The Holley coolant switch its where the ECU picks up temperature and through software settings the fan will go on when reaching that temperature. You can test that live in the ECU with key on, provided you have it all connected correctly.

I run a Terminator but have wired in several Sniper setups.
 

ttocs

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I had not even considered the fact that if you have not got into the temp settings to ask what you have done for the tune now? You have at least downloaded a tune for it and got into the settings or timing tables? I am afraid that you got into this like I did after hearing "self tuning, does it all on its own and could not be easier?!" - this is not the case... I mean it is self tuning and once its all set up correctly yes it does do it nice and easy but there are a few steps between the install and that point, a few dozen steps.
 

Hopelessly-Devoted

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Okay, so before we get too far ahead of ourselves, I have ordered a new touch screen for the Sniper. According to Holley, it should be shipped around Sept 29. We’ll see. As ttocs mentioned and in my research, no one has these in stock, so I need to play the waiting game. Weendoggy, you may be right, there is no tune loaded and if it’s designed that way with the fuel pump, that would explain the never ending running of it.

So dark green/yellow to Sniper large blue “should” trigger the fuel pump at ignition on and eventually run once it detects an rpm signal, am I stating that correctly?

Call me stupid, but is the PCM essentially the same as the CCM (Constant Control Module)?
 

ttocs

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What is the dash doing or not doing? Its been a while but I thought you had to enable the dash through the software or select that you were using it to get it to work. If you have not hooked up a laptop to the ecu you really need to and see what that looks like.

take the ccrm out of the picture for the fuel pump and run the wire either straight to the inertia switch if your keeping it, or to the pump.

Now in all honesty how far over your head in this do you think you are? I ask because you seem a little greener than even I was when I decided to go with the holley and I know I was in WAY over my head....
 

lwarrior1016

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When the stock ecu is removed from the picture, the ccrm will default the fans to run continuous, at least the one in my 98 did.

I would do away with the ccrm all together and make your own circuits. You can get a sealed relay box to put in there and take place of that ccrm.
 

Hopelessly-Devoted

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The dash, in the car appears to be normal. I'd have to go look at it again, but I think there are a total of three idiot lights that come on. Low coolant, oil pressure and I forget the other one. The Sniper screen is blank, completely dead.

As far as being in over my head, sure I would say that, but I also think I am fairly technical enough to get through this. I have avoided trying to do this for years because of something exactly like this. Rewiring things and still have them work.
 

ttocs

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The dash, in the car appears to be normal. I'd have to go look at it again, but I think there are a total of three idiot lights that come on. Low coolant, oil pressure and I forget the other one. The Sniper screen is blank, completely dead.

As far as being in over my head, sure I would say that, but I also think I am fairly technical enough to get through this. I have avoided trying to do this for years because of something exactly like this. Rewiring things and still have them work.
just curious what is your technical exp that translates into tuning? I spent a career installing car audio security specializing in wiring/security as well as being a electronics tech after graduation from tech school and thought "I can figure it out". The electronics I could work my way through but not with out paying a price for the education about it but the tuning but really was a LOT more than I ever thought there would be both from the electronics area as well as from the tuning/software area. I am not trying to be mean but it sounds like your either just a little to excited to turn the key or your just missed a few critical but basic steps from bypassing stock circuits to downloading a tune or looking at the software side prior to firing it up. I think its been a mistake that its got out that installing an aftermarket ecu is easy or that almost anyone can and should do it as it really should be left for a pro to install.
 

Hopelessly-Devoted

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Straight up, tuning? Zero technical expertise. I am at point of doing one of three things.
1. Throw a carb and new distributor in it with a fuel pressure reg, just to get it running again (I would need to drop the fuel pressure down for a carb)
2. Stick with this long enough to get it running, then I can get it dyno'ed and tuned
3. Put all the original EFI back in and try the Terminator X (myself or try to find someone around here to install it)

The closest certified Holley installer is about an hour and a half away from me, so I either getting running and drive it to them or trailer it, if they'll even touch it.

The factory ECM/Superchip has a tune in it that is getting me about 6 gallons to the mile, hence I need something I can control (preloaded tunes).

The path to hell is paved with good intentions. :(
 

ttocs

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What has all been done to the car now? Do you have a tuner that can tune the obd1 94/95 nearby? Unless your really ready to get into it deep enough to learn the wiring AND the software and willing to become educated in both you do not want to install your own. Tuning can be done via remote tuning but you will still need to know enough about the software, the tune and the install to be able to make these little changes you hope to do to service it in the future. Remember that from that day on that you install it your a shops worst nightmare when something goes wrong now since they can't refer to their manuals or experience from installing it.

With that being said there is no reason to go backwards with a carb. Even if a local dyno shop is not all that local it might be better to have them do the work and pay the tow fee to get it there or find a buddy with a trailer.

Again I am not trying to be mean but after reading this I am just wanting to be sure your ready for it. I was led into it being told "self tuning/couldn't be easier" and I am not sure at what point I realized that is a load of shit, but it is. Anyone I seem to hear from made it sound like almost any DIY'er could do it and I think in reality there are a full blown mechanics out there that should not do it.
 

lwarrior1016

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It took me about 3 weeks of time, after work and in between rain to install my Holley HP on my coyote and tuning it and taking it to a drag strip.

Before that, I installed a megasquirt but did not do the tune at all. I had someone else tune it. With the Holley, I did all my own tune. Aside from the plug and play harness from Holley that is very clearly labeled with connectors, there are 4 or so wires to be hooked up. And after you input basic sensor information, you build a spark map, then the fuel table can very much so tune itself. The fuel table is where 85% of your tuning is.

When you over complicate things and get overwhelmed is when you make mistakes and do not accomplish goals. If you go about it from a logical standpoint and stay level headed, it’ll be fine.
 

weendoggy

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Okay, so before we get too far ahead of ourselves, I have ordered a new touch screen for the Sniper. According to Holley, it should be shipped around Sept 29. We’ll see. As ttocs mentioned and in my research, no one has these in stock, so I need to play the waiting game. Weendoggy, you may be right, there is no tune loaded and if it’s designed that way with the fuel pump, that would explain the never ending running of it.

So dark green/yellow to Sniper large blue “should” trigger the fuel pump at ignition on and eventually run once it detects an rpm signal, am I stating that correctly?

Call me stupid, but is the PCM essentially the same as the CCM (Constant Control Module)?
Yes, the Blue wire from the Holley F/P relay will go directly to the DG/Y chassis harness, which should go to the fuel pump via the Inertia switch. Once the rest of the Holley is setup, it will pick up RPM signal via the Hyperspark system. I'm guessing you have the distributor and box Holley sells for the Sniper to make it PNP.

Don't feel bad and no question to me is stupid. Better to ask than guess. The PCM (Power Control Module) is Ford's name for the Holley ECU (Electronic Control Module). So basically they mean the same thing. The CCRM is different as you found out. I would also move the fan circuit from the Ford CCRM and connect that to the Holley side and let it dictate the fan operation. Not hard to do. If you need some assistance you can PM me or just post here as I will follow it until you say it runs.

Tuning the Sniper isn't difficult and although it is a "self learn", you will need to do some fine tuning to get it working better. You will need a laptop to do this, or connection to a PC. Holley will NOT work on a Mac. One lead I suggest you get is the "Y" connector https://www.efisystempro.com/sniper/sniper-efi-system-components/can-bus-y-cable-sniper-terminator-x so you can connect the PC to the system and leave the LCD connected at the same time. Makes things a lot easier. Get the length you prefer. You will also need this connector https://www.efisystempro.com/sniper/sniper-efi-system-components/can-usb-dongle-558-443 so you can connect the PC.

With the Hyperspark setup you will have the ability to program timing and have the Sniper control that aspect along with the rest of the fuel/air tables. The Target A/F ratio is the bible on the Holley system so that is your starting point. Then use the Base Fuel table to get where it needs to be. Once done, the timing and acceleration enrichment can be tuned. All takes a little time but fun once you get started and understand a bit.

Hang in there and good luck.
 

Hopelessly-Devoted

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Thank you all for the comments. I would like to follow this through and I do feel confident in my wiring skills. The part that throws me for a loop is knowing which wire to connect to where. As I learned, dg/y can be connected to the Sniper blue fuel pump wire. The fan is less of an issue as it runs when the ignition is on. If I can figure out which wire to tie in from the Sniper, I'll do it. I know the wires on from the Sniper are labeled, it's the wire in the car from the fan I am unsure of. The connector for the fan has three wires. I would guess that 1. ground, 2. 12v positive (maybe from a relay?) & 3. "signal" wire from a relay to trigger the fan to turn on. My other guess was that needed to use/keep the CCM. I am learning that I don't, more weight removed from the car, every ounce helps.

But, like I said, I'm getting ahead of my self. The screen is NFG, and I need to wait for the replacement.
I will repeat, no tune was downloaded or uploaded to or from the Sniper, DOA NFG touch screen.
weendoggy, I ordered those two cables, I guess that will tell me if the Sniper's ECU got fried as well. I only bought the dizzy, I have not added any ignition boxes or used the Coil Driver Module that comes with the Sniper.

I too, am not trying to be mean, but it just seems like everyone seems to think I completed the wizard and loaded a tune, base or otherwise, I didn't. I fully admit, I am a novice at best when it comes to these EFI set ups, but I am willing to learn and am flying blind, hence my signing up/in to this forum.

If you are on this forum, you know there is not a lot love out there for the 94-98 SN95's and it's frustrating. And yeah, "it's just four wires to hook up and you're ready to go"... bull shit!

So, now that I have vented, I hope to continue working with you all and anyone else willing to throw in their two cents.
 

lwarrior1016

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You need to get a wiring schematic for the ccrm. I can’t recall if that fan has two speeds or not. The 98 fan was ground, low speed, and how speed. The speed was determined by which of the two wires had power.

I would suggest getting a good relay box and sending the fan signal from the Holley to your own relay and get rid of the ccrm.

Does your car still have a/c or do you plan to keep a/c?

The ccrm controls ecu power, fan high and low, fuel pump, and a/c cut off for wot.
 

ttocs

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do you know how to wire a relay? Just curious as you might need to wire one or two in. The fan wires are ground, low speed power and high speed. The stock fan doesn't like the aftermarket wiring much and the aftermarket pieces do not like the ccrm much.
 

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