Stock block

Silver95bird

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I can tell you that he was spinning to about 6000+. And yes when the snap ring expands and falls off, the one way clutch comes off. Or if it's the roller ones, it comes apart. Trashing everything.
 
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d.garza18

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Flat top cp/mod Max pistons with rings,Coyote Rods,stock crank, stock block. Anybody have any recommendations for main studs head studs main bearings and rod bearings? Also should I get it bored? If so 0.20 over or .030?
 

OLD H2S

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Not quite. The first time I was heading north on I-95 stuck behind a truck in South Carolina in my Marauder with 444 HP coming home after putting the centrifugal blower on it. I just passed the 100 mile break in period on the blower and decided to open the car up, I step out in to the left lane doing 55 and floor it at 1750RPM, car down shifts out of OD to 2500RPM and starts to gain speed, this is a 4500 pound car, blower has not even come on yet and then the shift back into OD at 75 MPH as I back off and move into the right lane AND nothing....nada, no go just coasting, car is on but no connection to the rear gear. I pull over and check out everything and I only have 2 gear left. It's Friday night, sunset, middle of Carolina low country. I limp it to the the first exit middle of no where looking for a phone (old days), banjoes are starting to play. As I limp around slowly the local indigenous tribesmen keep scattering, I can find no one for answers. I pull over to look at a map, studying I am not paying attention when Sheriff Bubba pulls up and says "What the hell are the Feds doing in his Parrish driving around scaring everyone"?
I get a LONG tow home. Take the car to a nationally famous trans builder who just happens to be local to me and 5 days later get the car back with a blown rear end. He says the rear was like that when he got the car. I ask him where all the new burnout and donut marks came from in front of his shop came from? Asshole.
So the long story short- the Ford OD diode is held in place with a strong snap ring and they hold up in lighter cars under power when hitting OD on a looong pull but they can also pop out of the groove too easily so the right fix is to not listen to all the BS from Ford, experts, the internet bench racers, instead listen to your dog when he looks at you with the "REALLY??" look.

The next times it broke were at the track under max power and was the least of my carnage, but that is a different story...
 

evilcw311

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I get a LONG tow home. Take the car to a nationally famous trans builder who just happens to be local to me and 5 days later get the car back with a blown rear end. He says the rear was like that when he got the car. I ask him where all the new burnout and donut marks came from in front of his shop came from? Asshole.

There’s a builder here in Louisville that builds some super wicked turbo cars and even though he’s truly awesome at what he builds he’s a complete jackass. He’s been busted a few times in customers cars doing stupid shit and down at the track beating the hell out of them. Buddy of mine wanted his turbo system built but we were smart about dropping the car off, took the Ecm out and the driveshaft. Told the builder that the ecm was bad and the driveshaft was getting replaced.

I never trust shops with anything.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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d.garza18

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Interesting stories. And yeah worst comes to worst when I do decide to stick a supercharger on it I’ll have my buddy help me out. And as far as building a stout 4r70w I’ll have my buddy doit as well. He’s built tranny’s and has built some wicked cars.
 

lwarrior1016

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To build the 4r70, it doesn't take much. I always get the one piece hardened input drum so you don't have to worry about the forward snap ring blowing off. Then get the sure cure kit and that has the spiral lock ring and the retainer for the roller clutch. Pair that with a good j-mod and it'll be ready to rock and roll.
 
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d.garza18

d.garza18

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So arp head studs, main studs head studs main bearings and rod bearings? What about the piston and block, would it be better to have it .020-.030 over? Or keep it the way it is
 

lwarrior1016

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Stock bore is ideal. With these small bore engines, going .020 over doesn’t gain power, you really only want to do that if it’s needed to clean up the bores.
 
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d.garza18

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Thanks so stock bore will be fine. I plan on having everything for the build by next month at the latest. So now I just need to pull the motor out
 

OLD H2S

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On a blower car use King for the main bearings regular aluminum for the rods. I have been using Del West for wrist pins even on cast pistons. As for pistons they are all good, the problem is MOST piston are only made .010 over size and bigger. Your engine bores are probably ok with just .003 of taper to the bore in the north/south direction but you must open the bore .010 bigger to get the new pistons to fit. Then there is GibTec, they make your piston to size and you order after you hone the bores straight with minimum removal. Get your pistons before going to the machinist so they get fit correctly. All of us here have used all the major brands so...
I have 2 engines for sale, one is 13:1 cast pistons and the other is 10:1 forged pistons blower ready, it just depends on the application of the engine.
 
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d.garza18

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Thanks man info is greatly appreciated! Curious how much for your blower engine?
 

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