Stock bottom end a big drag?

[Dr.Scientist]

I'm pretty sure that everyone who comes to this site knows that the stock heads, intake, and exhaust are pretty big bottlenecks on the 94-95 cars. Most people will start by doing h/c/i and some exhaust, and they'll usually have pretty good results. So we all know that the stock top end is pretty limiting.

However, what is the weak link in the bottom end? Where can bottom end power be fairly easily gained? What drags the bottom end down when it comes to power? Would it be the pistons and the connecting rods? How is the stock crank?

 

[Addermk2]

The rods and pistons are press fit, which can gall up under high cylinder pressure levels. SN-95's have hypereutectic pistons, which people consider to be a lower grade slug than forged. And the block is the main limiting factor when it comes to the 5.0. It doesn't handle RPM and vibrations very well, and has a tendency to split down the middle!

50oz imbalance sucks too!

 

[Slykin]

The rods and pistons are press fit, which can gall up under high cylinder pressure levels. SN-95's have hypereutectic pistons, which people consider to be a lower grade slug than forged. And the block is the main limiting factor when it comes to the 5.0. It doesn't handle RPM and vibrations very well, and has a tendency to split down the middle!

50oz imbalance sucks too!

Can running a 28oz. or internally balanced setup help prevent block failure?

 

[Raffaelli]

You can spray or boost a stock bottom end past 500 WHP and split the block before the pistons, rods and crank fail.

So unless your planning to make high horsepower (like WAY past 300) on all motor only, there really isnt a point of changing/upgrading the bottom end.

Also remember that a forged crank, rods, and pistons wont give you the power. And since the block is the first thing to go, why bother?

 

[modo]

block is the weakest link

 

[Addermk2]

Can running a 28oz. or internally balanced setup help prevent block failure?

I would be very hesitant to agree with that. Splitting the block is more from the motion of the internals, and less from the imbalance of the crank.

 

[Slykin]

Can running a 28oz. or internally balanced setup help prevent block failure?

I would be very hesitant to agree with that. Splitting the block is more from the motion of the internals, and less from the imbalance of the crank.

Alright thanks, I was just curious.

 

[IceMan]

The bad thing in the bottom end is the block, as mentioned before. If you are planning to make over 500 rwhp and make the car last, than you need an aftermarket block, Boss, R302, A4, Dart. The good thing about these shortblocks is that if you blow one up, you can find one the same day for about $300, put a weekend into it and you are making 500 rwhp again.

 

[Dr.Scientist]

You can spray or boost a stock bottom end past 500 WHP and split the block before the pistons, rods and crank fail.

So unless your planning to make high horsepower (like WAY past 300) on all motor only, there really isnt a point of changing/upgrading the bottom end.

Also remember that a forged crank, rods, and pistons wont give you the power. And since the block is the first thing to go, why bother?

Very good sir. So now I know there is no reason to mess with the bottom end until it finally breaks one day.

The good thing about these shortblocks is that if you blow one up, you can find one the same day for about $300, put a weekend into it and you are making 500 rwhp again.

Ha! "RRRRAAAOOOOooo!! I'm back at it again!"