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Message: <blockquote data-quote="cntchds" data-source="post: 610835" data-attributes="member: 9873">Alright, I've kind of delved into the realms of suspension lately, and this is what I have to add.Three link systems.Watts/Panhard Bar:They do the exact same thing, and unless you have super human sensations that can tell you when your axle is off centered by a quarter of an inch, you will never feel adverse effects from a Panhard Bar. A lot of people want Watts Links because they are more expensive and they are "better." Sure, if you have a race car, and it is stripped down to the point where you can literally feel the weight of a dictionary in your car, then it will be noticeable that the Watts weighs maybe ten lbs more than a Panhard Bar.Short and sweet: They both do an excellent job of locating the rear axle side to side. If it comes down to it, buy whichever is cheaper. Griggs, EVM, and Fays2 all sell (sold in EVM's case) a Watts Link. MM, Griggs, and Steeda(in their 5-link kit) all sell good Panhard bars. Again, if it comes down to it, buy whichever is the cheapest for a street/track car. Track only, look at Griggs or MM for their reliability and customer service. Torque Arms:This stops axle twist under acceleration. These give more "bite" and allow you to get onto the gas sooner and harder coming out of a turn. Some companies claim that torque arms produce wheel hop when getting hard on the brakes and come up with other 3rd Link solutions. Those are not made for high horsepower cars and can cause tearing of the underbody if not reinforced correctly. For the average driver the Standard duty MM Torque Arm is the best choice for going to a 3-Link set-up. Once you install both then both the quad shocks, and the upper control arms should be removed to reduce suspension bind.It seems like a few people are fairly confused about what these things do, and I would suggest that anyone who is interested should do more research on these two components. That link to miracerros' page is a great place to learn.</blockquote>