thermostat

i_love_my_stang · May 22, 2009

is their any point putting in a different thermostat 160deg 180deg much point in doing this?

eliyarbrough · May 22, 2009

Huh, mine was replaced today! I didn't know they came any different. Wonder what mine is? On the gauge it before was on the M in normal. After the new one, on the O. It runs much cooler. Probably needed a new one, not any cooler.

snakebit95 · May 22, 2009

I would stick with the 180 stat to avoid potential problems with the car not exiting open loop mode. If the engine runs too cool, the ECU will never change to closed loop mode and driveability and fuel mileage could suffer.

i_love_my_stang · May 22, 2009

alright good to know thanks

Paul · May 23, 2009

Stock is 192. Putting a 180 in won't hurt anything either.

MustangChris · May 23, 2009

snakebit95 said:
I would stick with the 180 stat to avoid potential problems with the car not exiting open loop mode. If the engine runs too cool, the ECU will never change to closed loop mode and driveability and fuel mileage could suffer.

whats all the gibberish mean?

Paul · May 23, 2009

If the car doesn't reach operating temperature, it will function on pre-programmed fuel and timing maps in the ECU, rather than feedback provided by the MAF, IAT, ECT, and O2 sensors.

i_love_my_stang · May 23, 2009

so your saying IF i did do a different one i would need to get it tuned basically

Paul · May 23, 2009

No. Not at all. Stick a 180 in there and you'll be fine.

i_love_my_stang · May 23, 2009

alright cool, the degree is just what temp it opens at isnt it?

Paul · May 23, 2009

dutch · May 23, 2009

Go with 180. What paul is saying is:
When you coldstart your car, it runs in what's called 'open loop mode', which means the computer uses a default setting for air/fuel/spark, that's why it smells like gas and pops a little more, because the computer is ignoring the sensors.

When the car warms up after a few minutes, it starts calculating air/fuel/spark again with input from several sensors and the car runs in 'closed loop mode'.

Now if you use a 160 degree thermostat, you risk the car running too cold tricking the computer into thinking the car is still cold, causing it to stay in 'open loop' and ignore sensor input.

correct me if I'm wrong

snakebit95 · May 23, 2009

dutch said:
Go with 180. What paul is saying is:
When you coldstart your car, it runs in what's called 'open loop mode', which means the computer uses a default setting for air/fuel/spark, that's why it smells like gas and pops a little more, because the computer is ignoring the sensors.

When the car warms up after a few minutes, it starts calculating air/fuel/spark again with input from several sensors and the car runs in 'closed loop mode'.

Now if you use a 160 degree thermostat, you risk the car running too cold tricking the computer into thinking the car is still cold, causing it to stay in 'open loop' and ignore sensor input.

correct me if I'm wrong

You got it.

Win · May 23, 2009

I have a 180 and it works just fine. Be careful with that neck if you overtighten it you'll split it. I found out the hard way. The only thing they had at the Parts store was a Chrome One. and the degree it bends at is different. So be careful.

SableGT · May 23, 2009

I agree with the 180. I put one in about a week ago and seen a big difference in temperature. It has been in to triple digits here and my cars has no gone above the R in NORMAL. It usually goes up to the A or even the L when it is hot out.

New 5.0 · May 29, 2009

dutch said:
Go with 180. What paul is saying is:
When you coldstart your car, it runs in what's called 'open loop mode', which means the computer uses a default setting for air/fuel/spark, that's why it smells like gas and pops a little more, because the computer is ignoring the sensors.

When the car warms up after a few minutes, it starts calculating air/fuel/spark again with input from several sensors and the car runs in 'closed loop mode'.

Now if you use a 160 degree thermostat, you risk the car running too cold tricking the computer into thinking the car is still cold, causing it to stay in 'open loop' and ignore sensor input.

correct me if I'm wrong

So whats wrong with that? Would'nt that be a good thing?

Rice_slayer · May 29, 2009

^ no, because it is running on a pre-set information loop(preset a/f mixture and such) and won't perform nearly as good. When in closed loop, it gets a bunch of information from various sensors(MAF,o2 etc) and it calculates from those and gives the best mixtures for the information it receives, thus, getting the best performance out of your engine. Fuel Injection is a wonderful thing, I know lots of guys with carbed race cars that don't run a t-stat.

AaRoN · May 29, 2009

http://sn95forums.com/index.php/topic,38375.new.html#new

Ryno8705 · Jun 3, 2009

160* = bad idea. Running a 180* stat should be fine, but some computers will still not enter closed loop in colder weather. If you datalog you can see what loop mode the computer is in. As far as engine/water/oil temp goes, 192* stat is fine, 5.0s run warm anyway.

x182dan · Jun 3, 2009

Putting a 180* in there is your best bet. Just remember that the stock fan will not come on until 220* I believe unless you get the computer tuned or just run a switch to the fan. I ran a switch for a while until I got it tuned but now with the tune its set to come on right at 180-185* I believe.