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Engine Specific Tech
96-04 - 2V Specific
tranny / converter shot, need help !!
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<blockquote data-quote="SnakedMark8" data-source="post: 290981" data-attributes="member: 10115"><p>Your shop help must be on crack. Voidfinger is correct in the fact that your stock TC stalls somewhere 2400 rpms. One of the problems with torque converter suppliers is that they can rate their stall by one of several different methods of rating stall that I have seen. I sell my TCs by actual stall and not by any other rating. This is why I have you fill out a spec sheet on your vehicle and want to know actual hp/tq numbers, not exaggerated ones. What those other TC shops do really hurts the guys that use the actual stall way of doing it because it causes a lot of arguments that needn't be. Bottom line is that stall ratings can really get messed up when the company doesn't have the factual info to start with and that happens a lot. They think the stock converter stalls at 1800 like in your GT and then offer one 800 above that so they call it a 2600. So what happens is you end up with a loose converter that isn’t as efficient. The company you suggested builds TCs by this method and not by the actual stall method also. I would suggest a 3200 – 3400 rpm stall. That would make the one that I suggest stall at 2600 when it is actually really a 3400. This would make my 3400 converter a tighter converter than that one you from PI.</p><p></p><p>I imagine the PI you are referring to is a single plate Stallion converter. Great 60' times, but you will get your butt handed to you down the track if you go up against a car with the right converter in it.</p><p></p><p>Also, that PI is a nice little lightweight converter that will get you moving off the line but has less actual lockup clutch friction material than you need to lock the converter clutch up at wide open throttle. So there are both decent advantages and a serious shortcoming to it. They use paper thin abrasive material for their clutch. This material burns up and flakes off. Then besides losing it’s holding abilities the friction material is now traveling through your transmission with the fluid. </p><p></p><p> I’ve had 3 PI torque converters myself and have had several customers running them from mild to high hp vehicles. Every one of them that I replaced showed burn marks on the cover from the over heating and burnt up frictions.</p><p></p><p> My personal experience was as follows, I wanted a 3600 rpm stall single plate. When I got it, it didn’t stall where I wanted it just like I explained above. It was so inefficient that I had to go with a larger cooler. Then after 4 weekends at the track it burned up. When I called them and talked with Vicky and some other tech they asked me if I was locking up the TC at WOT. Duh, of course I am. I’m a tuner and I know what it takes to get a car down the track. You have to lock up the TC at WOT. They told me not to do it or it will burn up the TC, the friction material can’t handle it. Now this is straight from PI. I was shocked at this. This is supposed to be a high performance TC and it can’t handle WOT lockups. They then told me if I wanted to be able to lock up the TC at WOT I would need to run their triple disc. I sent my TC back to them and they replaced it with a triple disc at an additional $500. Well the same thing happened, the stall was off and after 2 months of weekend track duty the TC started slipping. I called them and got the same story. They asked at what rpm I was shifting at and I told them 7000, this is my Mark 8, 4.6 DOHC. It doesn’t make a bunch of hp either but runs down the track at 13.2. They told me I had to back down on the shift rpms and not lock the TC up at WOT. That’s when I decided to start searching and testing for a TC that could hold up to WOT lockups and any hp or rpm level. After a couple years I finally have something that works and has been tested behind 700+ rwhp vehicles shifting over 7000 rpm and WOT lockups. The same TC can also work in mild daily drivers without any problems.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SnakedMark8, post: 290981, member: 10115"] Your shop help must be on crack. Voidfinger is correct in the fact that your stock TC stalls somewhere 2400 rpms. One of the problems with torque converter suppliers is that they can rate their stall by one of several different methods of rating stall that I have seen. I sell my TCs by actual stall and not by any other rating. This is why I have you fill out a spec sheet on your vehicle and want to know actual hp/tq numbers, not exaggerated ones. What those other TC shops do really hurts the guys that use the actual stall way of doing it because it causes a lot of arguments that needn't be. Bottom line is that stall ratings can really get messed up when the company doesn't have the factual info to start with and that happens a lot. They think the stock converter stalls at 1800 like in your GT and then offer one 800 above that so they call it a 2600. So what happens is you end up with a loose converter that isn’t as efficient. The company you suggested builds TCs by this method and not by the actual stall method also. I would suggest a 3200 – 3400 rpm stall. That would make the one that I suggest stall at 2600 when it is actually really a 3400. This would make my 3400 converter a tighter converter than that one you from PI. I imagine the PI you are referring to is a single plate Stallion converter. Great 60' times, but you will get your butt handed to you down the track if you go up against a car with the right converter in it. Also, that PI is a nice little lightweight converter that will get you moving off the line but has less actual lockup clutch friction material than you need to lock the converter clutch up at wide open throttle. So there are both decent advantages and a serious shortcoming to it. They use paper thin abrasive material for their clutch. This material burns up and flakes off. Then besides losing it’s holding abilities the friction material is now traveling through your transmission with the fluid. I’ve had 3 PI torque converters myself and have had several customers running them from mild to high hp vehicles. Every one of them that I replaced showed burn marks on the cover from the over heating and burnt up frictions. My personal experience was as follows, I wanted a 3600 rpm stall single plate. When I got it, it didn’t stall where I wanted it just like I explained above. It was so inefficient that I had to go with a larger cooler. Then after 4 weekends at the track it burned up. When I called them and talked with Vicky and some other tech they asked me if I was locking up the TC at WOT. Duh, of course I am. I’m a tuner and I know what it takes to get a car down the track. You have to lock up the TC at WOT. They told me not to do it or it will burn up the TC, the friction material can’t handle it. Now this is straight from PI. I was shocked at this. This is supposed to be a high performance TC and it can’t handle WOT lockups. They then told me if I wanted to be able to lock up the TC at WOT I would need to run their triple disc. I sent my TC back to them and they replaced it with a triple disc at an additional $500. Well the same thing happened, the stall was off and after 2 months of weekend track duty the TC started slipping. I called them and got the same story. They asked at what rpm I was shifting at and I told them 7000, this is my Mark 8, 4.6 DOHC. It doesn’t make a bunch of hp either but runs down the track at 13.2. They told me I had to back down on the shift rpms and not lock the TC up at WOT. That’s when I decided to start searching and testing for a TC that could hold up to WOT lockups and any hp or rpm level. After a couple years I finally have something that works and has been tested behind 700+ rwhp vehicles shifting over 7000 rpm and WOT lockups. The same TC can also work in mild daily drivers without any problems. [/QUOTE]
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tranny / converter shot, need help !!
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