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Message: <blockquote data-quote="uncltrvlnmatt" data-source="post: 576679" data-attributes="member: 8290">Re: Trey "TxCobrA98"'s Forged Internal Rebuild + Vortech - Update Page 21) If your crank end play is within spec leave it alone. If it is tight you should get it as close as you can. Since .08-.12 is your spec and you are at .065 I would losen it up a tad bit. 2) If you don't turn off the IMRC's you will throw a code.3) Change your break in oil at about 100-200 miles, then again at 1000 miles. After that change at your normal intervals. I have been told several different things about break in periods. The guy who built my 428CJ told me take it to the track and run it. Other people have told me take it easy for the 1st 1000 miles, give everything a chance to seat properly. The problem is that some times you need to run it, to get the rings and all to seat properly.When I was building Mack Truck engines I would let them sit outside running at about 1200-1500rpm's for about an hour or two. That was to check for leaks and break in. The next day the driver would be pulling 80k trailers. I never had one break.On the otherhand, I rebuilt a 289. the car would not idle after 100 miles because the rings did not seat properly. So I took her out and beat on it. At about 1500 miles a valve spring keeper let go and made my engine junk. Now I don't know if that was because I beat on it, or it was a faulty part for sure. But I lean towards a faulty $.50 part.</blockquote>