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Tank looks like a Moroso. I used the same for my Coyote swap, but did a "mod" to clear the intake hose.
Water Temp sender
- Thread starter Fawls
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Fawls
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Fawls
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I have decided to drain the coolant and do a vacuum fill, probably have to wait until the weekend when I can find some time.
Todd in KS
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I looked at the link - it has fittings for hoes! I don't think my wife will let me get one. Ha.
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^ Yeah, saw that too. Also has built in sight gauge...where? I needed to add an extra by-pass 3/8" fitting on my Coyote swap, but I also bought the Moroso one. It didn't require any hoes. 
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Fawls
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I drained and re filled the coolant with my vacuum filler and took it for a long run, took a while but the temp is still showing high.
I don't believe the engine is getting that hot and readings from my temp gun agree with me.
Mark suggested temporarily putting it where the PCM sensor is to see if I get a different reading, not sure what to do if it does?
I don't believe the engine is getting that hot and readings from my temp gun agree with me.
Mark suggested temporarily putting it where the PCM sensor is to see if I get a different reading, not sure what to do if it does?
07GtS197
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Have you tested the sensor? It could be faulty.
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Fawls
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I took a reading when hot, it was 196 ohms, this is Marks response...
"At 196 ohms, the sensor is sensing 120 degrees C or 248.degrees F. The needle should be pointing at about a 1.5 degree angle below the maximum deflection which indicates that my unit is functioning as it should. Either the sensor has a problem or the coolant
(or air) at the sensor location is that hot."
"At 196 ohms, the sensor is sensing 120 degrees C or 248.degrees F. The needle should be pointing at about a 1.5 degree angle below the maximum deflection which indicates that my unit is functioning as it should. Either the sensor has a problem or the coolant
(or air) at the sensor location is that hot."
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
can you fill it as much as possible from the spot you mounted the sensor to try and minimize the air getting stuck?
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Use a thermometer, unscrew the cap from the expansion tank when engine at normal temp (it won't blow off, done it many times). Stick the end in the coolant and read it. You'll have engine flow through the tank when engine up to temp and that'll give you a good comparison of what you know. The other way is to put a live gauge into the port and do the same. They usually don't lie. Just route it to the engine compartment for temporary use.
I've done this on my '02 2V as well as the Coyote swap just to test and compare.
I've done this on my '02 2V as well as the Coyote swap just to test and compare.
07GtS197
Well-Known Member
I’d be interested in what the ecu reads. I’m curious now, you’re testing the oem coolant temp sensor right? What is the new sensor for?
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Fawls
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No it's an after market mod using factory gauge.
accutach.com
AccuTach Company
Electronic Automotive Products Instrumentation Service Tachometer Calibrator Tool And helpful information
accutach.com
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
it sounds like they just bypassed the stock location of 12v for some reason, there was not any major rewiring or modification done
07GtS197
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How’s it installed? Do you have to completely remove the original sensor? The installation instructions don’t open for me.
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The stock gauges are like glorified idiot lights. I know becasue I've tested mine vs. live to see the difference. And, with the Coyote swap, found that the water temp gauge is just about useless and the Coyote doesn't read off water, it reads of cylinder head temp via some "over my head mathmatical structure", which is how I found my cylinder misfires and/or CHT codes, with my scanner doing live data reads. Strange, because my water leak (tee-housing) was so minute that it took a few drives to finally show me what the heck was happening when my coolant level was good in the puke tank, but not bad enough to throw the CHT code, but finally did. I can see how wanting better registering for gauges, but the price to pay to get there isn't worth it to me. jmo
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Fawls
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"How’s it installed? Do you have to completely remove the original sensor? The installation instructions don’t open for me."
No, you need to add a new sensor, the existing one signals the ECU to control radiator fan activation / deactivation.
No, you need to add a new sensor, the existing one signals the ECU to control radiator fan activation / deactivation.
07GtS197
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Do you bypass the original sensor to it only goes to the ecu and the new one only goes to the gauge cluster?
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Fawls
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Yes, isolate the gauge at the circuit board.
ttocs
Forum's #1 poster
I have to say if that system was installed you would see the wiring for it, not just one wire. Not sure what was done there but the box for the gauge would be pretty easy to find in the dash.
You said the wire goes down and is wrapped around a fuse? That is certainly not stock but it sounds like someone just did a quick go around for some stupid reason or another. They needed power and "HEY the fuse box is right there so why not do this quick?" and HEY IT WORKS SO SEND IT!
You said the wire goes down and is wrapped around a fuse? That is certainly not stock but it sounds like someone just did a quick go around for some stupid reason or another. They needed power and "HEY the fuse box is right there so why not do this quick?" and HEY IT WORKS SO SEND IT!
07GtS197
Well-Known Member
What is the live stream saying? It could just be a faulty sensor.
