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Message: <blockquote data-quote="95PGTTech" data-source="post: 594330" data-attributes="member: 9525">Sorry, I don't know anything about 5.0 T56 setups, but here's a great article on it.<a href="http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_0701_ford_mustang_t56_transmission/index.html" target="_blank">http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/mmfp_0701_ford_mustang_t56_transmission/index.html</a>The block issue is why I suggested this basic, modular path of upgrade. The consensus for 5.0 block splitting is somewhere 500-550whp, conditions depending. One of the major factors is RPM - those high-revving 9000rpm N/A race motors really destroy the main caps easily. Girdles are proven useless/ineffective, they just help keep all the pieces in one place when it explodes. That's also why I suggested stopping in the end around 450whp.The block is the block regardless of your stroker motor. All you're doing is taking your stock block, having it bored out thirty thousandths of an inch, and dropping in a crank and connecting rods which have a little longer throw to them. You're not changing the block at all. The big advantage is the forged pistons and rods are made of a denser metal which is more capable of taking the abuse your supercharger is putting on those parts. But the block is still the factory block.Scenario: you buy s-trim supercharger kit. get it dyno'd around 250whp out of the box. Later add LTs, pulley, MAF, injectors, fuel system, redyno. 375whp. At that point, with everything else done, all that is left is the motor. With that in mind, you can say to yourself:1) I'm happy now, 375whp is a ton of power. Or, I cannot afford more.2) I want 75 more whp and I'll be happy.3) I want more than 75whp, I want a lot more power.In scenario 2, you purchase the 331 stroker kit and like I said above a mild cam and head, intake manifold package. Hell, you might be the one person in that case who I suggest buying GT40 stuff, since you don't need massive airflow the point for you of going into the motor is to replace the rods/pistons. Stroking to 331 is nice but only because the cost is about the same as just buying 302 forged rods and pistons.In scenario 3, you buy an aftermarket 302-based block. you upgrade to a ysi, you buy a top end brand 331 stroker kit, a custom ed curtis cam, you have a professional go through a set of afr 205 heads and a trickflow track heat intake, and you go back to the dyno shooting for mid 600sstart small, work out the t56 issue first.</blockquote>