Hey what’s going on everybody I just copped a 1994 mustang it’s a v6 and I plan to go the coyote route I want to do a 3.2.1 build but don’t know exactly where to start anyone want to help me out I stay in Columbus Ohio so if there’s anyone in the area that can help me out I would be entirely blessed
Yo wassup my names tre
- Thread starter Sn95tre
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badass98svt
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what's a 3.2.1. build
3rd gen block 2nd gen heads 1st gen cams
RAU03MACH
Legend
there is a couple of guys on here that have those answers
very helpful
very helpful
is there any particular reason you want to do a 3-2-1 build? Are you just doing it because the internet said to do it?
The reason I ask is, I had a gen 1 engine with long tubes and a gen 3 intake. It made 436 rwhp.
I then swapped gen 2 cams and a ported gen 3 intake with better long tubes. It then made 450 rwhp. The cam swap was not worth the trouble.
Gen 1 heads are very capable of making power.
The gen 3 blocks have plasma arc wire transfer coated cylinder walls. The slightest issue in the cylinder and the block is trashed. There is no honing or repairing a gen 3 block unless you sleeve it. At that point, you could sleeve a gen 1 block.
The reason I ask is, I had a gen 1 engine with long tubes and a gen 3 intake. It made 436 rwhp.
I then swapped gen 2 cams and a ported gen 3 intake with better long tubes. It then made 450 rwhp. The cam swap was not worth the trouble.
Gen 1 heads are very capable of making power.
The gen 3 blocks have plasma arc wire transfer coated cylinder walls. The slightest issue in the cylinder and the block is trashed. There is no honing or repairing a gen 3 block unless you sleeve it. At that point, you could sleeve a gen 1 block.
Also, welcome to the forum. We will certainly help you out.
We’ve got a couple threads in here that have parts lists for coyote swaps. I’ll see if I can find them.
Don’t get me wrong, the gen 3 block can make good power but not having sleeves in the block renders them useless, should an issue arise. Then gen 2 heads do flow better than the gen 1, but I’ve not seen any notable power differences on the dyno. Not any difference N/A that is. It might make a difference with boost.
First and foremost, who is going to tune the car and what is your end goal?
Don’t get me wrong, the gen 3 block can make good power but not having sleeves in the block renders them useless, should an issue arise. Then gen 2 heads do flow better than the gen 1, but I’ve not seen any notable power differences on the dyno. Not any difference N/A that is. It might make a difference with boost.
First and foremost, who is going to tune the car and what is your end goal?
My end goal is 500-620hp in total with a good tranny,ecu,rear end,wire harness,and etc
cobrajeff96
Well-Known Member
The 321 swap is immensely popular these days, and a big reason for that is because FRPP doesn't make the 1st and 2nd gen motors anymore, not for a good while now. And those cores are getting harder to find, especially the gen 2s because they are seen as the gem of the Coyote platforms. And they kind of are because they are the safe bet when it comes to adding boost. Not everyone wants a 10r80 anyways which will only work with the gen3.
If you're going through the trouble of building it yourself, do the obligatory billet oil pump gears, crank sprocket, and search vids on how to properly time the valvetrain. MMR, Power by the Hour, Accufab, and really any of the big Mustang sites are good resources for parts which would include whole motors and FRPP Control Pack ECUs. Both LMR and CJPP have great archive sections of instructional vids on general coyote swapping. There's a guy on Youtube called HPR (SpeedAddict731), has his own tuning shop and puts out great content including how to time the different generation Coyote motors which I definitely used when I cracked my 2nd gen crate open for the gears/sprocket upgrade about 3+ years back.
If you're going through the trouble of building it yourself, do the obligatory billet oil pump gears, crank sprocket, and search vids on how to properly time the valvetrain. MMR, Power by the Hour, Accufab, and really any of the big Mustang sites are good resources for parts which would include whole motors and FRPP Control Pack ECUs. Both LMR and CJPP have great archive sections of instructional vids on general coyote swapping. There's a guy on Youtube called HPR (SpeedAddict731), has his own tuning shop and puts out great content including how to time the different generation Coyote motors which I definitely used when I cracked my 2nd gen crate open for the gears/sprocket upgrade about 3+ years back.
Welcome. You definitely are in the right place. Pull a chair up and take a seat.
I’m pretty sure you will have to change the kmember also. Welcome to the forums btw. It sounds like you may be new to the game and I have to say it may be easier for you to stick with a pushrod sbf. I mean do what you want to do but just my 2 cents. Hope you got deep pockets
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RAU03MACH
Legend
even a 351 built up will get you some power
The problem with trying to build a 3-2-1 from scratch is that you have none of the engine parts. That means you’ll have to source everything separate. Finding the correct hardware can be a problem. The absolute best bet is to find a used engine, either 2013-2014 gen 1 or a gen 2 engine that is complete. That way you have a solid starting point and you’re not looking for stupid little pieces that are hard to find.
After you get the engine, decide what computer you’ll be using. Gen 1 or gen 2. That will determine what cams you get. Then gen 1 and 2 cams and phasers are specific to their computer, they are not interchangeable. Either one will physically fit in the engine, but they do not cross generations when it comes to electronic control.
After you get the engine, decide what computer you’ll be using. Gen 1 or gen 2. That will determine what cams you get. Then gen 1 and 2 cams and phasers are specific to their computer, they are not interchangeable. Either one will physically fit in the engine, but they do not cross generations when it comes to electronic control.
