Suspension questions (03/04 cobra LCA, also steeda x2 balljoint?)

Patin

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first post here, at least under this name. (used to be tooslow, idk why that account no longer exists. inquiring with Matt.)

Excuse the long intro, just giving suitable information.

A little about the car. 90% Stock 98 nPI. (still has 2.73's, ouch) Currently completely stock suspension (but have parts on order.) Only engine mod is a PI intake mani. The car has 18" Replica FR500's. 9" front, 10" back. 245's front, 275's back. crappy tires, gunna change em.

Mileage is kind of high and its time for some TLC as everything squeaks, rattles, and is shot. Brand new rack installed about a month ago.

Plans: continue to be my daily driver, stop squeaking so damn much, and be able to auto-x from time to time as more and more of my friends are going to local events and I want to give it a shot.

Parts on order: MM Caster camber plates and Eibach pro-system + kit. Includes pro kit springs, pro damper shocks/struts, and their 35mm front swaybar and rear sway bar. Plus poly spring Iso's front and back.

On to my questions:

I'm debating the 03/04 cobra control arms. What are the pro's to this? cons?

Also *almost ordered Steeda x2 balljoints and their bump steer kit. Reading reviews and forum posts of premeture failure scared me out of ordering them.

Anyone using the steeda balljoints with success? Anyone using the cobra arms?

How well will the car align, drive and handle if I use the cobra arms without the x2's and bump steer kit?

Basically are the steeds x2 ball joints worth it, and how long do they actually last. and Will the suspension be "correct" if I use just the cobra arms and OE balljoints.

I can afford the parts in question, since the answer is usually "if you can afford it..." I just don't like the possibility of the x2's needing to be changed any time remotely soon. Minimizing downtime is a big priority.
 

MustangChris

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cobra a arms:
pros:
tighter turning radius (supposedly, i couldnt really notice)
simple OEM install
"low friction" ball joints.

cons:
price of new FRPP.
i ahd to wait a week or so for mine to come in (plus shipping time)
made in canada (but so was my car, so so what. lol)

steeda x2s:
dont know alot about these.

i avoided them because the change in ride height was a little over my head at the time (and still is): "Steeda's X2 Ball Joint will greatly improve the suspension geometry on your lowered Mustang by raising the spindle relative to the pivot-point of the ball joint. " huh? lol.

also, my cobra A arms had brand new ball joints on them. why pull those out to put in other ones.

and finally, i hate steeda as a corporation. Their products may be good, but i hate them. (personal opinion. dont look into it. just listing my reasons)

i have the cobra A arms. car aligned fine, install was very simple. I did include a bumpsteer kit when i did mine.

you'll have to wait for someone with better knowlege of suspension geometery to chime in on the rest of your more specific questions regarding OEM outter tie rods.
 

Musturd

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Don't 96 up cars normally come with 3.08's or 3.27's but what do I know lol
 
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Patin

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Don't 96 up cars normally come with 3.08's or 3.27's but what do I know lol

That is 99+ Pretty sure its the 2.73's or what ever they are. Or what ever came stock. lol

Thanks for the input. It seems the x2's aren't needed, but are more beneficial. If they last. That is, only if what i heard about reliability is false.
 

MustangChris

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hope someone can chime in on x2s.... im curious about them and i dont really understand them really well..
 

OnyxCobra

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I have X2s, I think they've been clunking since almost day 1, I can't wait to get rid of them.


Cobra A Arms:

Pros:
allow full steering turn with 17x9 and 275 tires
low friction ball joints (if you use them)


Cons:
Saw a guy on here with them and they raised the front of this car
not exactly cheap

That's the main reason i went with the X2 ball joints, installing them without the spring spacer and the 03 Cobra A arms kept the height of the front of the car about the same.
 

Steven

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The geometry of the 94-95 cars are different in the front that 96-04 cars. I have 03/04 FRPP control arms. The bushings are hygrade, 50% stiffer than stock GT in all years. Lower friction ball joints, and improved turning radius on some cars. The best way to know if it will really help, is if your control arms have a plate on the back side of them. Those are the best way to tell. I purchased mine second hand with a 1000 miles on them. I can't tell that they aren't new, and I bought them at half price of new. My factory control arm bushings were shot, so I really need it.

As for x2's, they move the control arm down in relation to the ground. Meaning, if you look under a car riding on eibach or H&R SS springs, the control arm goes up as it goes out towards the side of the car. Steeda felt this needed to be corrected for whatever reason, and they created a ball joint that had a spacer and was longer in order to allow the control arm to become more parallel with the ground. All it does is move the ball joint back to a more square range of motion rather than being pushed more outward, however these aren't trucks and I've never heard of anyone reaching full extension of a ball joints range of motion in these cars. Rangers yes, mustangs No.

It's actually a bad thing, as it changes the height of the ball joint pivot point in relation to the tie rod, actually creating more bumpsteer than you originally had. Changing the height of any major suspension pivot point is a huge no-no in the suspension world. It's not going to help you in any way whatsoever.

In summary, buy the control arms, install them, be happy, live your life. Hope this helps!
 

Slykin

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I stick with Moog suspension parts. Sure they may be heavy and not as "light" or "quick" or "smooth" as some stuff, but they sure are built to last. x2's are way too flimsy looking for my tastes.
 
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Patin

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I'll stick with the OE balljoints. I just dont trust the x2's. I understand how they work, but that was the first I heard of them being counter productive. I thought they helped the geometry.

I'll go with the cobra LCA's. The car is currently 4x4 status. I'll have to see the front height with the Eibach pro kit and cobra arms and see if I'm satisfied with the height.

I like the stance of your car Onyx, so I figure without the x2's the front is .5" taller?
 
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Patin

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Does everyone still suggest use of the bumpsteer kit? Figured it could come in handy on auto-x days.
 
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Patin

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Just ordered the cobra LCA's from tousley. $120 right side, $170 left side. $290. ouch. was $300+ on all the websites i trust.
 

MustangChris

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i suggest bumpsteer on a modified suspension. i went with a maximum motorsports drill-through kit.
 

Steven

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Most bumpsteer can be countered by running more positive caster. Positive degrees of caster actually rotates the tie rod in relation to the rack, and helps to rid you of the dreaded understeer so many are familiar with. Adjust the alignment to spec, 1/8" toe, 1/2 degree of negative camber, and if you have CC plates, half of the range of adjustment caster. It will greatly improve the handling of the car. You really need an actual bumpsteer gauge to adjust the suspension. Also, do not go by the idea that the tie rod end must be parallel to the ground. The tie rod needs to have a range of motion that is parallel with the control arm only. It can be going up as it goes out and you won't have an issue. Lastly, avoid offset rack bushings, and you'll be fine. Hope this helps

Steven
 

MustangChris

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mmm. good info. i put my alignment in line with what MM suggested (on their CC plate isntall instruction sheet) and made my tie rod parallel with my control arm. I know its a no-no to do it without measuring it properly, but i was more interested on getting my car out of the way of other projects at the time. lol.


nevertheless, maximum motorsports has the tools, instructions, and products you need to properly install, and measure, your bumpsteer installation.
 
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Patin

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I may go ahead and get the bumpsteer for the piece of mind. Unfortunately, between school, actual work, and sidejob work I have 0 time, so a couple friends will be doing the install and all the alignment stuff at their shop when the parts come in. (Killing me knowing I'm not the one installing everything.)

I'll pass on all information to them and have them read this. Its not the first mustang they've done of course, but I'll talk with them just in case.

(RX-7 and miata guys, mostly. One has an RX-7 of every generation, and old school celica that rapes at auto-x and the other 2 guys both have build auto-x miata's.)
 

MustangChris

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sweet man. the maximum motorsports install instruction for bump steer is like, 40 pages... i'd be sure to print that off and give it to them with the parts. that way if you are hurt in a firey wreck and end up in teh court of law you can testify that you gave them the proper installation instructions. (and you can reference this thread and my instructions telling you to do so. LOL)
 

OnyxCobra

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I'm not sure exactly how much higher the front would sit without the X2s, the spring spacers aren't that thick... maybe try installing it and see how it looks, or if you want to be safe just install the spring without the isolators.


Also I did notice my bumpsteer got a LOT worse after adding the X2 ball joints.
 
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Patin

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Thanks for the input fella's. I've order the the bumpsteer kit also. We're going to see how it sits with everything installed, and see if I have to take the iso's out to get the stance I want.

With our crap roads and it being a DD, i'm not too concerned with ride hieght. It being a stock 4x4 for the past 6 years of my ownership hasn't really bothered me. lol.

What rear control arms do everyone suggest or use? I'm most likely NOT going to do them at this time, but want to eventually.

I've heard nothing but great things about Maximum Motorsports and Team Z. The cheaper stuff and the copy cat stuff make me nervous. I just want to decide my absolute end goals for the car before deciding on the rear link components.
 

Slykin

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I personally want MM everything on my car just because the quality of their stuff is so good... but they ARE expensive. MM adjustable LCA's are on my list...
 

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