depends on your power level. 300-500hp = mm heavy duty lcas. 500 and up = mm extreme duty lcas.
Suspension questions (03/04 cobra LCA, also steeda x2 balljoint?)
- Thread starter Patin
- Start date
OnyxCobra
Post Whore
I got the heavy duty MM adjustables because my car doesn't see the drag strip too much. If drag racing is going to be a regular thing it might make sense to get the extreme duty ones, but ouch on the price.
You'd have to be doing some serious performance driving to split a 3 piece bushing. Atleast a quality one at that. I really love the J&M lowers though with poly ball. The only control arm I'd own in place of a MM or griggs piece.
robb15033
Well-Known Member
I know Onyx has had a bad experience with the X-2's and I value his advice greatly but they have performed excellently for me. I have accidentally put them through tremendous stress and strain (accidentally hit asphalt curb) and they have been great. Maximum Motorsports bumpsteer kit with X-2's. I am thankful for finally acquiring a squeak free ride & I know how you feel wanting to be rid of any noise at all!
Well, I've done it. and it rides AMAZINGLY. No more squeaks.
here is the list of mods:
03 Cobra control arms, OEM cobra ball joints. (Just didn't want to risk it, know of a few GT's in town with similar set-ups and OEM ball joints. Maybe next time I'll try the x2's)
Eibach Pro system plus kit. Springs, shocks, struts, sway bars, and the bushings that came with the kit.
Poly Iso's.
Maximum Motorsport Caster/Camber plates.
Steeda bumpsteer kit. No reason for the steeda over the Maximum Motorsports ones. The friend who installed everything has used the Steeda's before and said they were great quality and he knew how to adjust them already. So we went with those.
--edit, making 3 post join into 1
Future plans:
i've been told the spot welds on the chassis aren't that great. and Even heard a story of a guy almost ripping the upper control arm bracket off the car during auto-x. So, I'll be seam welding any suspect joints in the area's I was told are known bad. Torque box, upper control arm, welded in subrames to be added, transmission cross over mount locations, front frame rails. and a few other spots.
then I'll add MM control arms and keep the option of a torque arm in the future open.
Oh, yeah. and BRAKES. this car needs a brake job.
So, no auto-x just yet. Just daily driving untill its "ready"
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here is the list of mods:
03 Cobra control arms, OEM cobra ball joints. (Just didn't want to risk it, know of a few GT's in town with similar set-ups and OEM ball joints. Maybe next time I'll try the x2's)
Eibach Pro system plus kit. Springs, shocks, struts, sway bars, and the bushings that came with the kit.
Poly Iso's.
Maximum Motorsport Caster/Camber plates.
Steeda bumpsteer kit. No reason for the steeda over the Maximum Motorsports ones. The friend who installed everything has used the Steeda's before and said they were great quality and he knew how to adjust them already. So we went with those.
--edit, making 3 post join into 1
Future plans:
i've been told the spot welds on the chassis aren't that great. and Even heard a story of a guy almost ripping the upper control arm bracket off the car during auto-x. So, I'll be seam welding any suspect joints in the area's I was told are known bad. Torque box, upper control arm, welded in subrames to be added, transmission cross over mount locations, front frame rails. and a few other spots.
then I'll add MM control arms and keep the option of a torque arm in the future open.
Oh, yeah. and BRAKES. this car needs a brake job.
So, no auto-x just yet. Just daily driving untill its "ready"
---
He set it to -1*. I'm bringing it back to him in a couple weeks to fine tune the alignment since the car may "settle" and slightly adjust the settings. Should I make him put it to -1/2*?
OnyxCobra
Post Whore
Good work, it might settle a little more but the Pro Kit isn't a huge drop. Are you sure your friend doesn't have Sportlines? If you wanted it a little lower you could always try removing the spring isolators for a little extra.
Not worried about the height. Our roads suck and I don't want a curb scraper. It sits plenty low enough for me. I suck at taking pictures, so it doesn't show, but it has a very slight rake. Subtle, i like it 
i need to get 275's up front and 315's out back. Pretty sure that'll help fill in the wheel wells and make it look a lot better.
i need to get 275's up front and 315's out back. Pretty sure that'll help fill in the wheel wells and make it look a lot better.
robb15033
Well-Known Member
Great kit you have. Congratulations! I bet your really happy, have fun with it. My car was set up last month with -1.1* camber. Not too sure how that will effect tire wear compared to -5* camber set up. Looks great.
Talked to my buddy about the settings he went with on the suspension. He said he went a little more aggressive then the settings you suggested Steven. He went -1* camber, and slightly farther then half on the caster slot. He said full caster adjustment is 6.5, half (your suggestion) is about 4. He said I'm close to 5.
He said the car will handle better and have a more responsive turn in on these settings. At the cost of a slightly rougher ride and sometimes bumpsteer. But I have a bumpsteer kit, so He was able to keep that in check. Said he's never had issues with accelerated tire ware at -1*.
He runs -3* camber on his RX7. -3.5* On a friends Cooper S and the same for an Elise. These 3 cars will eat a set of tires in one auto-x day.
He said the car will handle better and have a more responsive turn in on these settings. At the cost of a slightly rougher ride and sometimes bumpsteer. But I have a bumpsteer kit, so He was able to keep that in check. Said he's never had issues with accelerated tire ware at -1*.
He runs -3* camber on his RX7. -3.5* On a friends Cooper S and the same for an Elise. These 3 cars will eat a set of tires in one auto-x day.
robb15033
Well-Known Member
I'm glad that you got the system setup nicely. I just read this entire thread again-
In regards to the X2's: Another bonus for me using them is that they give an extra 1/2" drop up front which I need because of the V6 engine being 100lbs lighter up front. Also it is true with my alignment that the bump steer and tie rod end did not end up parallel with the ground or rack. The info put forward in this thread is some of the best I've ever read. Straight to the point and accurate. One of the better ones.
In regards to the X2's: Another bonus for me using them is that they give an extra 1/2" drop up front which I need because of the V6 engine being 100lbs lighter up front. Also it is true with my alignment that the bump steer and tie rod end did not end up parallel with the ground or rack. The info put forward in this thread is some of the best I've ever read. Straight to the point and accurate. One of the better ones.
ttocs
Post Whore
wow I am just about to do a similar set-up but my car does not ride as high in stock set up as yours does. How rough is it on bumps and crap like that?
My car was by far the tallest "stock" car I've ever seen.
It actually rides better then stock now. Well, I don't remember what the "fresh" stock suspension felt like. My junk was busted so it rode like ass towards the end.
It thumps some over bumps. Going on sectioned concrete roads that aren't perfect reminds me a tad of a school bus. thump thump thump thump... but it isn't rough and jarring. I don't expect a mustang to ride "nicely" so i guess it depends on your comfort level. Haven't bottomed out yet, and i have to go over a hell of a speed bump pulling into work.
It doesn't pull or jump over rough pavement. i've hit a couple rough patches intentionally with my hands hovering the wheel not grasping it, and the car kept straight.
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My friends called it the 4x4. when I said I'm getting suspension work done, they joked and asked how high of a lift kit i was getting.
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Control arms and tierods angle upwards. Put his level gauge on them, both the same exact degree off from level, so they are exactly parallel with each other. This gave the least bumpsteer.
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I had my auto-x friends read over the thread also before doing the work. They build and tune auto-x imports almost exclusively.
They all said the info Steven gave was spot on. Thank you Steven! We went a tad more aggressive though.
It actually rides better then stock now. Well, I don't remember what the "fresh" stock suspension felt like. My junk was busted so it rode like ass towards the end.
It thumps some over bumps. Going on sectioned concrete roads that aren't perfect reminds me a tad of a school bus. thump thump thump thump... but it isn't rough and jarring. I don't expect a mustang to ride "nicely" so i guess it depends on your comfort level. Haven't bottomed out yet, and i have to go over a hell of a speed bump pulling into work.
It doesn't pull or jump over rough pavement. i've hit a couple rough patches intentionally with my hands hovering the wheel not grasping it, and the car kept straight.
---
My friends called it the 4x4. when I said I'm getting suspension work done, they joked and asked how high of a lift kit i was getting.
---
Control arms and tierods angle upwards. Put his level gauge on them, both the same exact degree off from level, so they are exactly parallel with each other. This gave the least bumpsteer.
---
I had my auto-x friends read over the thread also before doing the work. They build and tune auto-x imports almost exclusively.
They all said the info Steven gave was spot on. Thank you Steven! We went a tad more aggressive though.
robb15033
Well-Known Member
Good deal! One more quick thing- My alignment setup has the my caster set at 3.8* on both sides. That's alot different than you and/or your buddy referenced. I wonder why we are so far off? Yours and my camber positioning is exactly the same.?.? lastly, if it matters at all- my "total toe"=0.1* and "steer ahead"=0.0*
I believe the reason we are so different, is because he purposefully set caster to "around 5" as he told me. This was done before setting toe. He set toe last using adjustments on the inner/outer tierod.
I'll ask him the finalized toe settings.
I'll ask him the finalized toe settings.
just txt him. he said I'm at -1* camber, +5.5* R, +5.0* L caster, 1/8th" toe in. He said you need .5-1.0 caster difference right biased. or the car will pull to one side.
You can adjust caster and camber independent of one another. To move caster, loosen just the 4 bolts on the caster plate, leaving the camber plate alone, then pry on the plate and slide it. This will change your toe settings though, and you'll have to adjust that also to be back into spec.
Who aligned your car? A performance shop? Mom and Pop mechanic shop? (that rhymed, lol)
You can adjust caster and camber independent of one another. To move caster, loosen just the 4 bolts on the caster plate, leaving the camber plate alone, then pry on the plate and slide it. This will change your toe settings though, and you'll have to adjust that also to be back into spec.
Who aligned your car? A performance shop? Mom and Pop mechanic shop? (that rhymed, lol)
