I wanted to add a how to 4.2 v6 swap and split port swap.
Here is a quick basic guide.
This guide is similar to the one I followed. It is from another forum, click here.
Even though the guide is fairly complete, I'd like to add a few things;
1.You do NOT need a 01-up 3.8 oil pan for the swap.
You can use an earlier oilpan and simply cut off 2 studs (this does not cause any problems or weaken anything.)
I made a how to below
2. You will need to do some custom work to the heating tubing.
3. You will need to do some custom work for the fuel rail.
4. You need to hold open the IMRC or remove and plug the holes.
I removed the IMRC and plugged the holes.
5. There is an extra temperature sensor the Mustang uses.
You will simply need to drill and tap a hole for the extra sensor in the intake.
6. 94/95 or 94-98 (can't remember which) the stock mustang headers are the best (obviously long tubes would be better)
7. Use as much of the Mustang 3.8 parts as you can.
Maf, injectors,upper intake(or windstar conversion)...
8. You can try to get away without a tune. Its recommend you do get it tuned though.
9. Emission controls are an issue (EGR).
If you don't have to do emission tests, I recommend just removing all of it.
10. Play will connectors and sensors (again, use as much mustang as possible)
11. K member. (side note)
The v8 and the v6 members are the same for the same year. But you need the correct motor mounts. If you have 94/95 k member use the 94/95 v6 mounts, if you have 96/97/98 k member use the 96/97/98 v6 mounts and so on.
I think that's basically all. I'll update if anyone has corrections or if anything else comes to mind!
Happy v6ing!
Here is a quick basic guide.
Early 97-98 4.2s had a 2-pc main girdle that connected the 1st to the 2nd main cap and the 3rd to the 4th main cap and had larger main bolts. Mid-1998 and up 4.2s used a 1-pc girdle that only connected the rear 3 main caps and had smaller main bolts.
To use the early 4.2 in any Mustang will require replacing the girdle with a newer 3 main style from a 4.2, a 99-up 3.8 girdle or just delete it. You will also have to cut the girdle studs sticking out of the head of the main bolts on the 1st main bearing. The 99-00 3.8s used a factory windage tray/girdle that is better than nothing but certainly not ideal. The 01-up 3.8s use the same windage tray/girdle as the 4.2.
Late 00 3.8s are actually early 01 spec engines that are internally balanced. If you have one of these.....just use the notes for an 01-up.
Edit by 97Stallion: here's some extra info. 97-98 4.2L engine are directly compatible with 94-98 3.8 crank pulleys. So if you have a 97-98 4.2 crank and balancer, you can use your 3.8 crank pulley/underdrive pulley.
94-98 Single port heads
- 4.2 shortblock
- Single port heads/fuel rail/intake
- Mustang 3.8 water pump
- Auto trans = 4.2 or 01-up flexplate
- 5spd = 01-up or rebalanced 3.8 (0 or neutral) flywheel and a pilot bearing
- V6 Mustang bellhousing
- Re-use your stock cam position sensor
- 01-up 3.8 oil pan
- 01-up 3.8 oil pick-up tube and screen
- 4.2 damper or 01-up 3.8 damper (use the 01 pulley for blower cars)
- Re-use the stock 3.8 oil pressure sender and tube
- Re-use the Mustang headers
- You can use the 4.2 or 3.8 dipstick. Just keep track of where 5 qts puts the mark when refilling with oil.
94-98 Split port heads
*** You will need to perform all the mods required for a split port conversion plus these steps for the 4.2 (see pbmilan or V6sprout for the video) ***
- 4.2 shortblock or longblock
- You can use the 4.2 heads
- Mustang upper and lower intake
- Custom return style fuel rail (VMP has them)
- Mustang 3.8 water pump
- Auto trans = 4.2 or 01-up flexplate
- 5spd = 01-up or rebalanced 3.8 (0 or neutral) flywheel and a pilot bearing
- V6 Mustang bellhousing
- Re-use your stock cam position sensor
- 01-up 3.8 oil pan
- 01-up 3.8 oil pick-up tube and screen
- 4.2 damper or 01-up 3.8 damper (use the 01 pulley for blower cars)
- Re-use the stock 3.8 oil pressure sender and tube
- Re-use the Mustang headers
- You can use the 4.2 or 3.8 dipstick. Just keep track of where 5 qts puts the mark when refilling with oil.
99-00 split port heads
- 4.2 shortblock or longblock
- You can use the 4.2 heads
- Mustang upper and lower intake and fuel rail
- Mustang 3.8 water pump
- Auto trans = 4.2 or 01-up flexplate
- 5spd = 01-up or rebalanced 3.8 (0 or neutral) flywheel and a pilot bearing
- V6 Mustang bellhousing
- Re-use your stock cam position sensor
- 01-up 3.8 oil pan
- 01-up 3.8 oil pick-up tube and screen
- 4.2 damper or 01-up 3.8 damper (use the 01 pulley for blower cars)
- Re-use the stock 3.8 oil pressure sender and tube
- Re-use the Mustang headers
- You can use the 4.2 or 3.8 dipstick. Just keep track of where 5 qts puts the mark when refilling with oil.
01-up split port heads
- 4.2 shortblock or longblock
- You can use the 4.2 heads
- Mustang upper and lower intake and fuel rail
- Mustang 3.8 water pump
- Auto trans = your stock flexplate
- 5spd = your stock flywheel and a pilot bearing
- V6 Mustang bellhousing
- Re-use your stock cam position sensor
- Your 01-up 3.8 oil pan
- Your 01-up 3.8 oil pick-up tube and screen
- Your stock 01-up 3.8 damper
- Re-use the stock 3.8 oil pressure sender and tube
- Re-use the Mustang headers
- You can use the 4.2 or 3.8 dipstick. Just keep track of where 5 qts puts the mark when refilling with oil.
This guide is similar to the one I followed. It is from another forum, click here.
Even though the guide is fairly complete, I'd like to add a few things;
1.You do NOT need a 01-up 3.8 oil pan for the swap.
You can use an earlier oilpan and simply cut off 2 studs (this does not cause any problems or weaken anything.)
I made a how to below
Contrary to popular belief it is possible to make a oil pan work for 4.2 v6 swap with very minor modification.
What you need:
3.8 v6 oil pan
Modifications:
Cut 2 Studs
Bend a bracket
In my 4.2 v6 swap I used a 3.8 v6 oil pan, even though many people claim you can't. While having the engine completely apart we noticed there was only two studs preventing the oil pan from bolting on. The oil pick up tube also needs to be bent a little as well.
The oil pan I used is from a 1994 3.8 v6 Mustang. I am unsure if there are any changes in oil pans as the years progressed, I cant imagine there is though. If someone could confirm a difference that would be great.
Step 1
Trim the two front studs so it looked like the picture below
Step 2
Bent the oil pick up tube so it looks like pictured below.
You will have to play around with it a little until you are happy with the location
Now the pan should fit on without any problems
I've been driving my car for years now without any oil problems.
Hope this helps anyone doing some research or anyone facing the problem.
2. You will need to do some custom work to the heating tubing.
3. You will need to do some custom work for the fuel rail.
4. You need to hold open the IMRC or remove and plug the holes.
I removed the IMRC and plugged the holes.
5. There is an extra temperature sensor the Mustang uses.
You will simply need to drill and tap a hole for the extra sensor in the intake.
6. 94/95 or 94-98 (can't remember which) the stock mustang headers are the best (obviously long tubes would be better)
7. Use as much of the Mustang 3.8 parts as you can.
Maf, injectors,upper intake(or windstar conversion)...
8. You can try to get away without a tune. Its recommend you do get it tuned though.
9. Emission controls are an issue (EGR).
If you don't have to do emission tests, I recommend just removing all of it.
10. Play will connectors and sensors (again, use as much mustang as possible)
11. K member. (side note)
The v8 and the v6 members are the same for the same year. But you need the correct motor mounts. If you have 94/95 k member use the 94/95 v6 mounts, if you have 96/97/98 k member use the 96/97/98 v6 mounts and so on.
I think that's basically all. I'll update if anyone has corrections or if anything else comes to mind!
Happy v6ing!