300whp-350whp suggestions? Give me ideas!

ThatSNninety5

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Currently on my 98’ GT it has the following
-4.6l v8 from 05’ Lincoln town car, that being said it has PI Intake and heads (239hp stock according to google

AIR
-professional products 75mm throttle body
-professional products power air inlet (elbow from throttle body to intake
-CAI (unsure the brand its just a silver pipe)

FUEL
-Motorcraft 21lb/hr fuel injectors

EXHAUST
-BBK shorty heads
-BBK non catted h-pipe
-Spintech side exit kit

ECU
- Superchips 4-bank eliminator chip

I have 3.73s in the rear end, its an automatic, Im on plugs and wires im on motorcraft racing suspension, going to put Nitto NT222 on it for tyres. I have a kit for a J-mod on the trans just never put it in not even sure what it is tbh

Give me ideas, on how to get a little more power, I want to stay n/a so just little things, I have to go get it retuned to my new exhaust setup so give me suggestions what to tell the guy when tuning it, what gas to run, stuff like that. Currently run on 93 pump gas. Im unsure what im pushing to the crank or wheels right now.
 

07GtS197

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You already have pi heads and intake so you’re ahead of the game there. Full bolt ons and cams with a 5 speed you can touch 300 hp but you’re pretty much at the limit n/a. If you want to stay n/a and keep it 2v, the only way you’re getting close to the upper end of that is with a trickflow top end with big cams. With all that you’d need a new converter too.
 
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ThatSNninety5

ThatSNninety5

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You already have pi heads and intake so you’re ahead of the game there. Full bolt ons and cams with a 5 speed you can touch 300 hp but you’re pretty much at the limit n/a. If you want to stay n/a and keep it 2v, the only way you’re getting close to the upper end of that is with a trickflow top end with big cams. With all that you’d need a new converter too.
Ive heard people talk about underdrive pulleys, what are they and what do they benefit? Also if I put a set of cams in the stock heads what would you suggest? Im not to educated at all on cams so when Im on summit racing looking at the numbers and stuff im honestly clueless. Also how much would porting the heads benefit on n/a or possibly running e85?
 

07GtS197

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Ive heard people talk about underdrive pulleys, what are they and what do they benefit? Also if I put a set of cams in the stock heads what would you suggest? Im not to educated at all on cams so when Im on summit racing looking at the numbers and stuff im honestly clueless. Also how much would porting the heads benefit on n/a or possibly running e85?
Underdrive pullies are larger and usually weigh less than stock pullies. They turn the accessories slower and their weight savings work together to free up some load on the accessory drive. I’m not a fan of them personally but a lot of people run them no problem.

You’ll definitely benefit from porting the stock heads but at the end is it really worth it. For the amount of money to port the heads you might be looking at the same as aftermarket heads that flow better. If you want every ounce of power out of your combo porting them will help for sure.

As for cams, call a shop like Todd Warren and get a custom grind based on your build. They should be tailored to your overall combination to make the most power for what you use your car for.
 
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ThatSNninety5

ThatSNninety5

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Underdrive pullies are larger and usually weigh less than stock pullies. They turn the accessories slower and their weight savings work together to free up some load on the accessory drive. I’m not a fan of them personally but a lot of people run them no problem.

You’ll definitely benefit from porting the stock heads but at the end is it really worth it. For the amount of money to port the heads you might be looking at the same as aftermarket heads that flow better. If you want every ounce of power out of your combo porting them will help for sure.

As for cams, call a shop like Todd Warren and get a custom grind based on your build. They should be tailored to your overall combination to make the most power for what you use your car for.
So ive been reading about these underdrive pulleys and heres a couple things my car doesnt have, a/c therefore its just a loose pulley, the heat works good though. Theres no radio and no speakers in the car. With this being said does me not having these things possibly be a benefit if I did the underdrive pulleys? My thought with it these are a couple things I dont have that power wont get pulled from so the other accessories would have a bit more power to them kind of evening everything out.
 
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ThatSNninety5

ThatSNninety5

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You guys say its cheaper but if I were to throw on a vortech procharger which is 6k in itself. What else would I have to upgrade? On these motors how much hp and boost can the stock internals handle? And what about fuel system? What would need to be done to handle a procharger? Could I keep everything I have listed and just slap on a procharger and be alright? Maybe ill do a wet shot of nitro.
 

07GtS197

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Usually, 400 is considered the safe number.

Theres a few ways you can go about it. Yes you can buy a kit which comes with a tune and fuel. You can buy a tuner kit and piece together your own fuel system and tune, which can save money. Or piece an entire used kit together.

Your fuel system will be dependent on the amount of power you’re trying to make. Others will have better answers but if you’re looking mid 300’s, a pump and injectors should suffice.
 

Snorky

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Save up and buy a blower. Or get some cms stage 2 PI NA cams and the appropriate valve springs. I wouldn't waste my money on under drive pullies unless it was a used steeda set for $100. The $ to performance gain ratio goes best to worst.
Blower
Cams
Gears
Any bolt on

I am not putting a turbo ok that list for they are ultra efficient but an expensice headache.
 

Snorky

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Additionally I will add that any used intercooled centri blower or kenne bell kit that you pick up for 2,000-3500 will probably hold that exact value if you ever take it off to sell. Heck. They were in that same price point when I had a used intercooled centri blower on my car in 2012 or 2013. Sold it for roughly what I bought it for in 2015/2016. I look on market place ND they're still going for that price range. The kenne Belle blowers going for the higher end of that range typically.

So if you ever wanted to get your money back for say a coyote swap. The return on the purchase is nearly all there. Just be patient and shop with intelligence and install everything yourself. Blowers are a weekend leisure install in my book.
 

96blak54

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If you are happy to crack the engine open, cams and more compression, then edelbrock manifold and matching fuel rails, headers, bigger throttle body, cold air, exhaust. If you want to stay relatively stock and NOT open the engine, you are pretty much stuck where you are at right now.

If its competitive horsepower you seek, look to a coyote swap....the same amount of money to beef up the 4.6l, plus more horsepower and potential.

If you want a cam selection idea, comp 262 and have compcam regrind the exhaust to a 101LSA...meaning they will alter the exhaust valve opening to 26* late. Then youll have restricted intake issues, but you can grow from there
 

I_LIKE_TURTLEZ

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350rwhp is a big ask for a 2v and requires boost, even if I managed that I would question the cast crank and rods at any waking moment, undoubtedly a short lived ticking time-bomb.
I've never understood why someone would dump all of that money into one of these when a 4v version of the engine has the potential to make 200hp+ more with the same mods, they respond far better and have forged internals.

Like 96blak said, you're stuck. Do all the normal bolt-on stuff, make your 255rwhp'ish and enjoy the car for what it is. There aren't many of these on the road anymore and the 4.6L is the best sounding small block ever made.

$0.02
 

Snorky

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Made 415 whp on my stock heads/shortblock 2v with cams and a blower for years racing it all the time. Was in boost everyday eith that car. Pulled the engine for a forged shortblock when I went turbo and the stock engine lives on in a friend's car. The 2v can be quite resilient.
 
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ThatSNninety5

ThatSNninety5

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Currently on my 98’ GT it has the following
-4.6l v8 from 05’ Lincoln town car, that being said it has PI Intake and heads (239hp stock according to google

AIR
-professional products 75mm throttle body
-professional products power air inlet (elbow from throttle body to intake
-CAI (unsure the brand its just a silver pipe)

FUEL
-Motorcraft 21lb/hr fuel injectors

EXHAUST
-BBK shorty heads
-BBK non catted h-pipe
-Spintech side exit kit

ECU
- Superchips 4-bank eliminator chip

I have 3.73s in the rear end, its an automatic, Im on plugs and wires im on motorcraft racing suspension, going to put Nitto NT222 on it for tyres. I have a kit for a J-mod on the trans just never put it in not even sure what it is tbh

Give me ideas, on how to get a little more power, I want to stay n/a so just little things, I have to go get it retuned to my new exhaust setup so give me suggestions what to tell the guy when tuning it, what gas to run, stuff like that. Currently run on 93 pump gas. Im unsure what im pushing to the crank or wheels right now.
Posted on this not to long ago, recently upgraded to Bilstein B8 shocks all the way around, I also have Eibach lowering springs 3510.301 in the front and 3510.302 in the rear, now I have on 21lb/hr injectors as stated above and was wondering if I should maybe upgrade the fuel pump and if so maybe also the lines? Also I have 8mm wires from rockauto, I put them on when my motorcraft ones that went with the tune on my car went out, what are some good wires to run with my situation, I just want to get my car how it should be rather than throwing random parts at it when something breaks
 

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