351 Blocks

[mich_666]

Looking to build up a 351 and Im wondering if its worth spending the money on an aftermarket block?
Im not going to be using a stroker kit or anything but it will be forced induction.
Im sure getting an aftermarket block is a good idea but i want to know if i would get away with it? Because I was told that with 302 blocks if youre making a 347 or something you MAY be pushing your luck and risk splitting the block.
Thanks, Cheers.

 

[Paul]

No.

 

[LAFENATU]

No it's not...why not build a stroker from a 302??

We need to make a sticky on this subject. I'm gonna post my info on a 351 swap.

You don't need a hood (necessarily) but it is likely. Stock K-member is fine. Stock mounts are fine. If you get a roller block 1994+

- Oil pan
- distributor
- lower intake
- 190lph or larger pump
- wider fuel rails
- swap headers
- longer belt

If you use a short factory-style intake (e.g. Cobra or GT40) you can make it fit under a normal hood without too much trouble.

Paul has done this swap, he said with a 96-98 hood his fit. A few people on some other boards did it and said theirs did not come close to shuting, also depends on what intake you are using.

If money is an issue, this is NOT for you. Unless you are going to spend the money to do it RIGHT with a really nice set of heads /rotating assembly / cam etc it is not worth the additional effort / $ / weight.

Set down a price it all out before you dive into it cause if you need this as a dd and you run out of cash your going to end up with a unreliable car to drive around. If you get a junk yard motor out of a truck or van and keep the stock heads, intake and cam its goin to be a weak motor. It should be noted also that it is ALWAYS way more than you think - if you think it will be 5 grand, budget for about 8.. and thank me later. NOTHING ever goes 100% perfect when tearing down a motor/replacing a motor etc. There is always something that you did not expect.

imo, if you want to stay 302 based 306/331/347, you can buy a stronger 302 block that can hold more power.

Just make sure you research and plan well which ever route you go, both can have a great final product.


.02

 

[Paul]

I should also ponit out that I had HP drop solid mounts on mine to get it to clear the hood. LAFENATU, I think I lied to you a while back on that PM, because I simply forgot about it. Stock mounts will work, but the HP mounts will help with hood clearance issues.

 

[StAnGaLaNg]

the hell with a stock hood! get the 3-4" cowl, it changes the whole look of your car. looks bad*ss!

 

[SN95_JP]

does anyone know if a 1992 351w is already roller ready?? I?m in my search for a 351w swap on my 94 GT... thanks...

 

[LAFENATU]

I am pretty sure that is a flat motor.

 

[94 Sn-95GT]

looking for block casting D4 i believe

 

[Cloud]

I'd like to do this swap as well on my 94 GT- the odometer just hit 209,000 miles Money isn't too much of an issue, because I'd like to put all new parts, and I'd be building it while using my 94 as a DD. I was looking at doing it this winter and getting a beater anyway.

Couple questions, though. Most importantly, what kinda trans to put in? I heard the T5s can't handle too much more power than stock, but I'd probably want to keep the automatic- which I'm pretty sure also will break. Is there a good automatic that will withold a good amount of power (no more than 500 hp for 5.0 and 5.8)? Also, what would be a good H/C/I combo to use? Personally, I like the look of the GT 40 and Cobra intake- just saying. Lastly, what's a good rotating assembly to make it damn near bulletproof in case I want to add boost?

 

[94 Sn-95GT]

I'd like to do this swap as well on my 94 GT- the odometer just hit 209,000 miles Money isn't too much of an issue, because I'd like to put all new parts, and I'd be building it while using my 94 as a DD. I was looking at doing it this winter and getting a beater anyway.

Couple questions, though. Most importantly, what kinda trans to put in? I heard the T5s can't handle too much more power than stock, but I'd probably want to keep the automatic- which I'm pretty sure also will break. Is there a good automatic that will withold a good amount of power (no more than 500 hp for 5.0 and 5.8)? Also, what would be a good H/C/I combo to use? Personally, I like the look of the GT 40 and Cobra intake- just saying. Lastly, what's a good rotating assembly to make it damn near bulletproof in case I want to add boost?

If your gonna rebuild it anyways i'd stay with a 302 based 347. Less cubes. Less power on the dyno but faster at the track and has a weight advantage.

Now if your gonna stroke the 351 thats a different story .

 

[LAFENATU]

looking for block casting D4 i believe

D4 would be a 1974 Block.

Couple questions, though. Most importantly, what kinda trans to put in? I heard the T5s can't handle too much more power than stock, but I'd probably want to keep the automatic- which I'm pretty sure also will break. Is there a good automatic that will withold a good amount of power (no more than 500 hp for 5.0 and 5.8)? Also, what would be a good H/C/I combo to use? Personally, I like the look of the GT 40 and Cobra intake- just saying. Lastly, what's a good rotating assembly to make it damn near bulletproof in case I want to add boost?

Before planning many engine mods to an AODE/4R70W equipped vehicle, you should install an AODE Valve Body Kit/Shift Kit. Installation of the Valve Body kit will allow 1997 and earlier AODE/4R70W transmissions to perform reliably in a 350 to 375 horspower application.

1998 and later 4R70Ws can handle up to 500 horsepower with just the addition of the Valve Body kit due to a hardened input shaft and the one-way mechanical diode.

Karl Baumanns website has TONS of FAQ's about the AOD/AODE/4R70W

http://www.becontrols.com/ourfaqs/index.htm

 

[94 Sn-95GT]

F4 My bad.

 

[BlkoutGT]

First you need to decide how much power your going/want to make.

 

[Cloud]

Before planning many engine mods to an AODE/4R70W equipped vehicle, you should install an AODE Valve Body Kit/Shift Kit.

95 Bullit?!

I was actually thinking about getting a B&M Hammer Shifter and Shift Kit this summer- I don't know anything about them though.

 

[Steven]

if you have to ask I highly doubt you will have the ability to push past a stock windsors breaking point.

 

[snakebit95]

F4TE block is a roller ready block. If you are planning to run the stock stroke with a power-adder, it can handle most anything you throw at it if it is a street car. Once it becomes a track only car and you get serious (big gears, big tires, big boost, high stall, e.t.c.), the aftermarket block is the only way to go.