'96 GT a4 cooling issue, need help!

[Tally_4.6]

I recently acquired a '96 GT with the intention of fixing it up and selling it. Well here is the main problem with it.

- The e_fan comes on seconds after startup.
- The needle goes from C to almost H in a matter of minutes after i start the car and begin to drive. (fluctuates between the M and A of normal)
- CEL codes include p0118, p0401, and p1443. ECT sensor, EGR flow, and EVAP codes.
- I discovered of the 2 wires going into the ECT sensor, 1 was cut which would explain the e_fan coming on right after startup.
- The old coolant consisted of stopleak/brown water. So I flushed the coolant, replaced the t_stat and cleaned the shit outta the reservoir yesterday figuring this would improve the cooling.

Well after doing the coolant job yesterday and reconnecting the wire i figured i would go for a drive to Advance and erase the codes and go from there. Well driving there the e_fan didn't come on and the car got pretty hot. Well this morning the CEL came back on and the e_fan kicked on my way to work.

Lets just say i replace the 1 ECT sensor...('cause the other one on the coolant crossover has been replaced already) and get that fixed. Would that 'cause the e_fan to kick on a little sooner? Even if it does i still have a problem with the amount of fluctuation of needle, my black '98 goes to N and ****ing stays there, maybe O on a really super hot day. This thing is all over the place.

'96-'97 GT cooling issues...?

 

[Tally_4.6]

...

 

[Locomoco]

I would start off with a Hydrocarbon test to make sure you don't have a blown head gasket. Here is what the tester looks like http://www.blockchek.com/instructions.htm after making sure you have no hydrocarbons in the cooling system I would start off with replacing your radiator reason I say this is because of the stop leak that was added. It will plug the radiator and lower the cooling ability of your radiator. Maybe pull the water pump off and make sure the impeller is good because it could have been eatin away from acid that builds up in the cooling system and if that's okay do a engine POWER FLUSH not that simple one you hook up to a hose I mean take it to a good shop that has the right equipment for the job. And then see where it goes but do that test first

 

[vermilion]

driver's side coolant sensor controls Fan and PCM/initial cold start timing adjustments. the passenger side is the temp sender to the dash.

disconnecting the driver's side causes the fan to not come on or limp mode fan full force. on cold starts the timing gets pulled to add fuel to make the piston rings seal for about 60 seconds.

A malfunctioning Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor will NOT make your vehicle overheat.

the expansion tank cap is pressure relieved and could be malfunctioning.
Thermostat can be stuck closed. ​

 

[Locomoco]

driver's side coolant sensor controls Fan and PCM/initial cold start timing adjustments. the passenger side is the temp sender to the dash.

disconnecting the driver's side causes the fan to not come on or limp mode fan full force. on cold starts the timing gets pulled to add fuel to make the piston rings seal for about 60 seconds.

A malfunctioning Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor will NOT make your vehicle overheat.

the expansion tank cap is pressure relieved and could be malfunctioning.
Thermostat can be stuck closed. ​

Or could be a problem with the CCRM but always do a block test first they say starting with the simple tests could save you a lot of $$$$

 

[Locomoco]

Or could be a problem with the CCRM but always do a block test first they say starting with the simple tests could save you a lot of $$$$

After thinking about it I'm not sure if our vehicles have a CCRM

 

[vermilion]

Ccrm is in the passenger fender


Sent by smoke signals

 

[Tally_4.6]

The cap does act kinda funny when taking it off, but im pretty sure it holds pressure. I guess i'll try the cap from my '98 next time i drive it. You can rule out the t_stat tho, it does the same thing before and after the flush. The t_stat i put in there was off my '98 and it was fine, just decided to replace it for good measure.

So the tank cap may be the cause of this?

 

[Tally_4.6]

Little update.

The fan got fried a few months ago due to it being on all the time lol. So i pulled the waterpump only to find corrosion instead of an eaten away propeller, oh well worth a shot. So i replaced it with a new one and finally got a new E_fan/radiator combo from Spoolin2valve about 2 weeks ago. I went ahead and threw in the new radiator and put in the new e_Fan thinking i was good to go.

Of course it didn't come on after several test drives to and from work. I thought maybe swapping CCRM's with my old box from my '98 would do it, NOPE. So get to thinking maybe i should check the fuse...BINGO! Was nearby an Advance auto after work so i stopped in and grabbed a 60a. Put that ***** in and started it up, 2 seconds later it kicks on...it works!! I actually think the stock CCRM isn't working tho, so i may have to leave my old '98 one in it. I'll find out tomorrow fa sho.