Beat to death panhard bar question

9838stang

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On my car, I have J&M upper and lower control arms, J&M upper spherical axle bushings, ad the lower control arm has spherical bushings as well. But the body had the poly bushings.

After reading about MM highly recommends using stock rubber bushings. I'm curious if my spherical equipment will allow for less binding. Still using factory sway bar aswell.

Reason why I'm looking at this route, I work on a lot of 05-14 mustangs and they feel so much more planted that my chassis. And I wanna get mine close to that feel. Any other suggestions.

Also have upr tubular k member, poly bushings in front control arms. Stock front sway bar. Shorter links, J&M cc plates, bump steer kit, H&R ss springs, and tokico blue shocks and struts. Getting new shocks and struts soon.
 

white95

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No one? Ok, I’ll drop my thoughts on this. If you want to get close to that S197 feeling and not change the entire rear suspension in the process, I have one recommendation. You may consider doing the “Poor man’s three link” at this point. To do so, you will remove the driver side upper control arm and add a panhard bar to locate the axle laterally. This will eliminate the binding in your rear suspension. It is a good upgrade for not a lot of dough. The spherical axle housing bushing is a must for strength and you should be just fine with the LCAs and sway bar. You will need to reinforce the upper control arm torque box and might as well tackle the lowers at the same time. Brett Madsen did this very same mod (with a watts link) and had generally favorable things to say about it and I recall he mentioned asymmetrical handling. He ultimately upgraded to a torque arm and a much superior watts link.

You will need to buy the following:

1) torque box reinforcement plates (just install the passenger side)
2) Panhard bar
 
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here is my opinion if you want to go with the mm phb...



THE PHB MAKES A HELL OF A DIFFERENCE

GET IT

my rear set up is some MM HD spherical bushings in the body and urethene on the axle LCAs with factory 300k mile uppers and the PHB with an eibach rear sway bar. car handles great and it handled great when it was factory 4 link, sway and the PHB.
 

joe65

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damn it now i want to get one soon. I've been trying to deicide on when to get one. The MM PHB sounds like its more than worth the $350 price tag.

also have to say while we're at it that the MM lower control arms are worth it also. I just have those along with full length sub frame conns. and it feels so much better than stock.
 
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still cheaper then griggs and will hold up better on the road in comparison. Buy once cry once or whatever the hell that saying is haha
id take griggs any day over MM, even with the price

only problem is i cant afford that price lol

maybe if i talk to bruce a biit more hell let me use my car as a test mule for new parts lol
 

Shifty Powers

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id take griggs any day over MM, even with the price

only problem is i cant afford that price lol

maybe if i talk to bruce a biit more hell let me use my car as a test mule for new parts lol
Sorry but there is zero need for a test mule. His personal car has been it for a decade. SN95s are a very minor fraction of their business now. It is all sn197+

If the said car sees any street driving I would put MM on it 100%. If the car is a trailer queen and only sees the track, then yea send it to Griggs and spend 10k on the front suspension alone. If you are in AIX go Griggs or Cortex(if in autoX ide go cortex). But if you see anything at all other then a smooth track, go MM. Specially for money = performance -- sorry MM is way better.
Griggs is known to crack. Its been on forums for years that it does.

That is all. Again. I would not promote Griggs in any way shape or form if someone is looking for dollar to performance to get their car to handle better. If so that is terrible information to give someone sorry. Not correct. Pure track car that has had its weight lightened(very key here)--- Yes go Griggs it will be a whole new world.. Otherwise, crap suggestion...
 
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Sorry but there is zero need for a test mule. His personal car has been it for a decade. SN95s are a very minor fraction of their business now. It is all sn197+

If the said car sees any street driving I would put MM on it 100%. If the car is a trailer queen and only sees the track, then yea send it to Griggs and spend 10k on the front suspension alone. If you are in AIX go Griggs or Cortex(if in autoX ide go cortex). But if you see anything at all other then a smooth track, go MM. Specially for money = performance -- sorry MM is way better.
Griggs is known to crack. Its been on forums for years that it does.

That is all. Again. I would not promote Griggs in any way shape or form if someone is looking for dollar to performance to get their car to handle better. If so that is terrible information to give someone sorry. Not correct. Pure track car that has had its weight lightened(very key here)--- Yes go Griggs it will be a whole new world.. Otherwise, crap suggestion...

i beg to differ. i know bruce and have had some very in depth conversations with him about our mustangs and all sorts of racecar shit. hes actually deveolping more fox platform products and s550 parts with the new cnc machine he got, so keep your backhanded comments to yourself. if you have a problem then pm someone instead of trying to claim their opinion or suggestion is crap
 

Shifty Powers

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i beg to differ. i know bruce and have had some very in depth conversations with him about our mustangs and all sorts of racecar shit. hes actually deveolping more fox platform products and s550 parts with the new cnc machine he got, so keep your backhanded comments to yourself. if you have a problem then pm someone instead of trying to claim their opinion or suggestion is crap

Ah well good for you for talking to him. Thats bonus points for sure, didnt know he still even talked to sn95 guys so thats good to hear he is still developing things for the SN95..Cool info, thanks!

What problem do I have with backhanded comments? Dont see anything backhanded, it was pretty straight forward. Maybe it was and came off a little too strong. Sorry for that and Ill be more mindful, but its the forums. I dont need to PM someone to let them know my opinion differs or I dont agree with theirs.

BTW glad you are racing. When did you get the black car? Wasnt your other car green or something?
 

95opal

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A couple of failures back in the hayday. MM also had CC plate failures back then also. Upr and a host of other top name brands have all suffered failures. Thing is your talking 20 years ago. I have the griggs gr40 watts link and heavy duty TA. Welds look tight and i dont see anything that would lead me to believe that MM quality is any better and i have run tons of MM stuff in the past. That said run what you think will fit your build and budget. If you do some digging you will see that griggs is top notch stuff and shiffty is going off less than a fist full of failures dating back 20 years. I could have run the MM panhard bar and TA but honestly the gr40 watts link set up is far superior.
 

tvsn95

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Sure,,, I don't want you sensitive guys upset,, This is a decent forum for the very few that are looking for us OLD guys experience. When You have broke as many parts as I have , it falls into either dumb or experience,,,I like experience.
 

Notthenow

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I had J&M rear uppers and lowers with their ball type urethane bushing and UPR aluminum press in sphericals in the housing. I also did weld in torque box brackets and had the MM panhard. The axle would lift one wheel when turning into my driveway so I put stock uppers back on before something broke. The spericals still bound. The stock uppers not only flex in the bushing, they also twist diagonally to allow articulation (Jack's explanation, not mine).
 

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