boost or n/a?

justinschmidt1

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As some of you may know Im going to be putting a blower on eventually.

Ive been thinking that maybe I dont want to put a blower on my car.

The cars old, engines got 106k on it.

i cant afford a rebuild if the engine blows.

Anyone think I should sell the blower and go n/a?

or should I just keep the boost down to 8-10 psi?
 

Bluesn95

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It really depends on how good of condition the motor is in and what you plan on doing with it.
 
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justinschmidt1

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well, I dont know what the condition of the motor is...and I cant afford to blow it up anytime soon.

I plan on boosting it with 8-10 psi....

Im gonna keep it the way it is...maybe add pi cams eventually.
 

AaRoN

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You should be perfectly fine with 8-10psi for awhile. Just make sure to keep up on normal maintenance (of course) and get a good tune. I've personally seen guys that push 8-9psi through a turbo on their Stangs that have alot more miles.
 
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justinschmidt1

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AaRoN said:
You should be perfectly fine with 8-10psi for awhile. Just make sure to keep up on normal maintenance (of course) and get a good tune. I've personally seen guys that push 8-9psi through a turbo on their Stangs that have alot more miles.

how safe woul I be at 12 psi?

haha
 

AaRoN

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justinschmidt1 said:
AaRoN said:
You should be perfectly fine with 8-10psi for awhile. Just make sure to keep up on normal maintenance (of course) and get a good tune. I've personally seen guys that push 8-9psi through a turbo on their Stangs that have alot more miles.

how safe woul I be at 12 psi?

haha

If ALL your maintenance is up to date, tune-up, etc. and you have a really good tune. You should be fine. It really comes down to the tune.
 
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justinschmidt1

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AaRoN said:
justinschmidt1 said:
AaRoN said:
You should be perfectly fine with 8-10psi for awhile. Just make sure to keep up on normal maintenance (of course) and get a good tune. I've personally seen guys that push 8-9psi through a turbo on their Stangs that have alot more miles.

how safe woul I be at 12 psi?

haha

If ALL your maintenance is up to date, tune-up, etc. and you have a really good tune. You should be fine. It really comes down to the tune.

hmm...yea..Ill have to see what my tuner thinks.
 

GaryG

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justinschmidt1 - i read over on turbomustangs.com that u were wanting to go turbo instead of s/c...u should, ull be alot happier

theres a some guys over on turbomustangs.com that have 150k mile motors w/ turbo's
 
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justinschmidt1

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GaryG said:
justinschmidt1 - i read over on turbomustangs.com that u were wanting to go turbo instead of s/c...u should, ull be alot happier

theres a some guys over on turbomustangs.com that have 150k mile motors w/ turbo's


yea, im sure I would...but I dont have the money to do that...I would have to sell this kit and dump another 3-4k into a turbo kit on a stock engine that can only handle so much power.
 

Knuckles281

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Here you go man, maybe this will help you out...

I'm doing a buildup on my motor, going n/a as well...here is what I got everything for, just so you can maybe weigh the costs of n/a vs. blown and decide which is better for you

PI Manifold - 100 off ebay
PI Heads - 300 used off ebay
Comp Cams 102300 - 500 off thunder racing maybe? can't remember
BBK 75mm TB - 230 off Summit
C&L Plenum - 120 off the C&L site
JLT Cold Air Intake - 220 off the JLT site
BBK Shorties - ~300 off summit
Pypes o/r x - free to me via girlfriend, but 150 elsewhere :)
Cylinder head valve job and porting - 750 from Fastlane Motorsport in NC
Install complete with new head bolts and all new mounting hardware, plus tune and dyno afterwards - 1500

I'm not sure how much power I'll be putting down, but it'll be over 325 i'm sure. The reason that I say this is that I've seen the dyno sheets on my cams, and ported PI heads and they gain around 50 and 80 hp respectively. IDK if this helps you at all, but the total is pretty high, to essentially get close to the same hp you will have with the blower...i'm just stubborn and wanted to be n/a on the 2v. If cost is your goal, then going blown is as well IMO lol

Incase you were wondering the other mods I am having done include a 2500 stall, 3.73's, battery relocation, 315's and a new k-member to hopefully shed a few pounds.
 

Willis_98GT

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Knuckles281 said:
Here you go man, maybe this will help you out...

I'm doing a buildup on my motor, going n/a as well...here is what I got everything for, just so you can maybe weigh the costs of n/a vs. blown and decide which is better for you

PI Manifold - 100 off ebay
PI Heads - 300 used off ebay
Comp Cams 102300 - 500 off thunder racing maybe? can't remember
BBK 75mm TB - 230 off Summit
C&L Plenum - 120 off the C&L site
JLT Cold Air Intake - 220 off the JLT site
BBK Shorties - ~300 off summit
Pypes o/r x - free to me via girlfriend, but 150 elsewhere :)
Cylinder head valve job and porting - 750 from Fastlane Motorsport in NC
Install complete with new head bolts and all new mounting hardware, plus tune and dyno afterwards - 1500

I'm not sure how much power I'll be putting down, but it'll be over 325 i'm sure. The reason that I say this is that I've seen the dyno sheets on my cams, and ported PI heads and they gain around 50 and 80 hp respectively. IDK if this helps you at all, but the total is pretty high, to essentially get close to the same hp you will have with the blower...i'm just stubborn and wanted to be n/a on the 2v. If cost is your goal, then going blown is as well IMO lol

Incase you were wondering the other mods I am having done include a 2500 stall, 3.73's, battery relocation, 315's and a new k-member to hopefully shed a few pounds.

so you have almost 3k right there for 325whp

and the average blower setup is 3k <--- i said average, i know their cheaper and more expensive. and you can net 250-400 w/ various boost setups and if you have boltons or blah blah.

seems like you just have to think about it. having boost draws reliability..

then you have the all motor. knowing that the top half of your motor is rebuilt. and would prob be reilable.

i'm going go go ahead and quote JR and say "why not do both.. i did"

not a real quote. but he told me that when i first started posting on forum about a year ago.
 

Knuckles281

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well you also have to realize that i got a good deal on some of that stuff, like the H/C/I. Unless you can get them used or find a great deal it will probably cost you more than it did me, unless you can do the install yourself. I don't have the tools, the time, or the confidence required to do that work, so I'll be paying for it since I don't know anybody who can do it for me for free haha
 

Jrgunn5150

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N/A sucks, everyone with forced induction owns you. Spend 3k to get 300 horsepower, in a motor that act's like it should make 500.

Everytime your blower comes up Justin, everyone tells you 8-10 is safe, then next thing I know, you are talking about 12-15... You shove 15 psi on stock rods, keep a broom handy to sweep them up with.
 

low9sGT hahajk

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Get that supercharger on, and get it tuned. You'll be fine, and from the looks of what you're running right now with your mods, you should be pulling very nice times.
 

low9sGT hahajk

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Yeah, with nitrous it'd be beastly. But I think he's afraid to use any power adders, whether it be boost or nitrous. He could probably build a more powerful setup for the money using nitrous. But, I'd rather have 350rwhp all the time than 250rwhp off nitrous and 450rwhp on nitrous
 
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justinschmidt1

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Knuckles281 said:
Here you go man, maybe this will help you out...

I'm doing a buildup on my motor, going n/a as well...here is what I got everything for, just so you can maybe weigh the costs of n/a vs. blown and decide which is better for you

PI Manifold - 100 off ebay
PI Heads - 300 used off ebay
Comp Cams 102300 - 500 off thunder racing maybe? can't remember
BBK 75mm TB - 230 off Summit
C&L Plenum - 120 off the C&L site
JLT Cold Air Intake - 220 off the JLT site
BBK Shorties - ~300 off summit
Pypes o/r x - free to me via girlfriend, but 150 elsewhere :)
Cylinder head valve job and porting - 750 from Fastlane Motorsport in NC
Install complete with new head bolts and all new mounting hardware, plus tune and dyno afterwards - 1500

I'm not sure how much power I'll be putting down, but it'll be over 325 i'm sure. The reason that I say this is that I've seen the dyno sheets on my cams, and ported PI heads and they gain around 50 and 80 hp respectively. IDK if this helps you at all, but the total is pretty high, to essentially get close to the same hp you will have with the blower...i'm just stubborn and wanted to be n/a on the 2v. If cost is your goal, then going blown is as well IMO lol

Incase you were wondering the other mods I am having done include a 2500 stall, 3.73's, battery relocation, 315's and a new k-member to hopefully shed a few pounds.


haha...thanks man..I hope you make 325 rwhp.

Ive already got all of those n/a mods other than Pi heads, cams...(the only ones that matter, haha)

thats why I was thinking I could go with some ported heads and a decent set of cams and make about 300 whp...but that would be pretty costly and it still wouldnt really be that fast.

But the blower will always make more power and I can always do cams/ heads later on.

BLOWER IT IS!
 

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