boost or n/a?

Adam

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Cylinder pressures will be above what the pistons and rods were designed for at even 9psi. Yeah yeah, "I have been running 40psi of boost thru my 800,000 mile stcok motor for 47 years" I have heard it all before. Do it once and do it right. NO TUNE IN THE WORLD IS GOING TO CHANGE THE FACT THAT THE CYLINDER PRESSURES YOU CREATE WHEN ADDING BOOST WILL DESTROY CRAPPY PRESSED RODS/PISTONS....sorry didn't mean to yell.... :) Any tuner that says otherwise is full of shit.
 
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justinschmidt1

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Adam said:
Cylinder pressures will be above what the pistons and rods were designed for at even 9psi. Yeah yeah, "I have been running 40psi of boost thru my 800,000 mile stcok motor for 47 years" I have heard it all before. Do it once and do it right. NO TUNE IN THE WORLD IS GOING TO CHANGE THE FACT THAT THE CYLINDER PRESSURES YOU CREATE WHEN ADDING BOOST WILL DESTROY CRAPPY PRESSED RODS/PISTONS....sorry didn't mean to yell.... :) Any tuner that says otherwise is full of shit.


so I should run 8-10 psi..no more?

alrighty.

AaRoN said:
jfor441 said:
J.R. said:
N/A sucks, everyone with forced induction owns you.

But NA with a 200 shot of spray at the track... mmmm... yummy!

How about N/A with 4.56 dana's and street tires so you can "look" fast :coolsmiley:

rolling 3rd gear burnouts? haha
 

97stanger

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ive ran 12psi on stock bottom end for a year now no problem. All depends on the tune and how you beat on the car. Guys will say 8-10 because thats what theyve read on the internet but just be smart.
 

Jrgunn5150

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blown97stanger said:
ive ran 12psi on stock bottom end for a year now no problem. All depends on the tune and how you beat on the car. Guys will say 8-10 because thats what theyve read on the internet but just be smart.

I don't say 8-10 because it's what I read on the internet. I say it because I've been there and done that. The factory weak suck rods can't take any more pressure than that period. I don't care if you've ran 12 psi for a year, how many miles did you run in that year? What kind of usage did the car really see?

There's ALWAYS someone to come along and say "well I sprayed 500 shot and it was fine" or "I run 20 psi on stock rod's"

Do you seriously think that you know something everyone else doesn't? I can find a picture of my rod's scattered all over Norwalks finish line, at 10 psi, 12:1 A/R, and 18 degress of total timing, running 104 octane Sunoco no less.
 

97stanger

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I believe you J.R. calm down man. I'm just saying every car is different. You car doesn't know that if you push 11psi to automatically start breaking rods. I'm just saying guys read not to run more than 8, 9, 10 psi whatever you read on the internet or you're stuff will blow. That is not true. Ask thunder dave how much boost he ran? as i said earlier, IT ALL DEPENDS ON THE TUNE AND HOW YOU TREAT THE CAR. Dont go in boost every single day you drive the car.

And I'm not talking about "running 20psi on stock rods". Im talking about 11-12psi.
 

Jrgunn5150

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No, it's not automatic at 11 psi they will shatter. But anything over 10 is pushing the stock rods. Of course every car is different, but I would never encourage people to go past what I know is safe for the motor. We're talking about a guy who is depending on his setup as his sole mode of transportation here, why push it for 20 hp?

It honestly doesn't all depend on the tune either. Obviously a bad tune will make it happen sooner, but pressure is pressure, and the rods can take what they can take, good or bad tune.

As far as not going into boost everyday, the only way that was going to happen is if I shifted at 2200 rpm every time.

I'm not angry here, btw :thumb: But obviously our idea of what is safe, diverges.
 

97stanger

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This is my only car and i live at school which is an hour and a half away. With my auto i can drive for hours and never see boost. But I definately agree that if it is your only car and dont want to produce every bit of hp than play it safe and just run the stock pulley.
J.R. do you happen to have any pics of your car ive never seen it. esp the motor


As to the title of the thread, youre going to spend a fortune to get a n/a car to where a blower car is. and the closer you get the more streetable factor you are taking out of it.
 

jfor441

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blown97stanger said:
As to the title of the thread, youre going to spend a fortune to get a n/a car to where a blower car is. and the closer you get the more streetable factor you are taking out of it.

The second part of your statement I will agree with somewhat as streetability is subjective.

The first part I will totally disagree with. When my motor is completely done, I.E. when my heads get back from the machine shop, I will have a total of 3500 bucks in a built motor that will be putting down close to 350 or more at the wheels NA. Now, the only work I am letting the "pros" do is the machining work on the heads and the machine work on the block, everything else I have done because I ain't scared to turn a wrench but I am scared of someone that wants to take a motor out to install cams.
 

Jrgunn5150

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There's quite a few pics floating around the forums, looked alot like your car actually :hammer:
 

Brian95SVT

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I could be wrong but I thought forged internals don't give you power just let you hold more power.
So with PI intake *which I have* cams *which i can get PI cams right now* and headwork *which includes all of what?* I can make 350+rwhp??

Seems a little off... I mean I'm not an expert by any means, but from what I've read over the years... just doesn't seem to add up?

Can someone clear this up for me?
 

jfor441

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my96gtstang said:
I could be wrong but I thought forged internals don't give you power just let you hold more power.
So with PI intake *which I have* cams *which i can get PI cams right now* and headwork *which includes all of what?* I can make 350+rwhp??

Seems a little off... I mean I'm not an expert by any means, but from what I've read over the years... just doesn't seem to add up?

Can someone clear this up for me?

It takes the right cam, the right headwork and more compression than most of ya'll are willing to run a street car.
 

Brian95SVT

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Well I am going with PI cams for a while then when I get my forged SB I'ma get Crower Stage 2 blower cams then save up for P&P job on my NPI heads
 

97stanger

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you must be planning on running some rediculous compression to make 350+rwhp.

Especially with a stock PI manifold...

so say you have full bolt ons and you see what at tops, 215rwhp? You're planning on getting 135+rwhp from the heads/cams with a PI manifold?
 

jfor441

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blown97stanger said:
you must be planning on running some rediculous compression to make 350+rwhp.

Especially with a stock PI manifold...

so say you have full bolt ons and you see what at tops, 215rwhp? You're planning on getting 135+rwhp from the heads/cams with a PI manifold?

pistons heads and cams and it is very doable even with the pi intake. The right combo of parts and you can go fast NA. Several NMRA racers are running a very similar combo to what I am.
 
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justinschmidt1

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blown97stanger said:
you must be planning on running some rediculous compression to make 350+rwhp.

Especially with a stock PI manifold...

so say you have full bolt ons and you see what at tops, 215rwhp? You're planning on getting 135+rwhp from the heads/cams with a PI manifold?

a full bolt on with pi intake and pi cams is probably capable of 250 rwhp...maybe even more.

full bolt on with npi intake and npi cams most likely would never see over 220 rwhp haha
 

jfor441

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blown97stanger said:
you must be planning on running some rediculous compression to make 350+rwhp.

Especially with a stock PI manifold...

so say you have full bolt ons and you see what at tops, 215rwhp? You're planning on getting 135+rwhp from the heads/cams with a PI manifold?

Honestly... what is so surprising about 12.5:1 CR, race prepped heads and the right cam and using a PI intake manifold not being able to reach the 350 area?
 

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