bump steer?

[ttocs]

anyone else on here have the steeda kit? I started this because I found a steeda kit on NIB for a good deal and would like to get it in preperation to drop it. REading the description on them on their site they say:

"Recommended for all lowered Mustangs with X2 Balljoints, X5 Balljoints and/or Caster Camber Plates."

Does that mean I HAVE to use the x2 or x5 balljoints or will this work with others? After reading the mixed reviews on the x2 joints I am not sure I want to go with them.

Just bought a maximum motorsports CC plate in preperations as well. Now I just need to save for the big parts(shocks/springs/other crap) to do the whole job.

 

[ReplicaR]

I don't understand how you guys just buy parts, throw them on there because someone said that it's the right thing to do, and then expect it to work? Do you install camber caster plates, and then eye ball it and say good enough? How about change something internal in the engine, and then say, ehh fuck it, it runs, that's good enough for me?

It's a precision suspension tuning device, and you guys are treating it like a bolt on. If you are going to install a bumpsteer kit, you have use bumpsteer gauge to dial it in. That whole parallel to control arm myth is not cutting it. I've actually used a bumpsteer gauge when I installed my kit. Guess what? Not parallel. And guess what else? Both sides were different, required a different amount of shims. If you are not going to do something right, might as well no do it at all. I understand that some have altered front end geometry (Onyx with his X2s), but if everything is just stock, and the car is lowered, I'm pretty sure that you are not gaining anything at all, and all you are doing is throwing money in the wind, while using placebo effect to convince yourself that car became better.

 

[ttocs]

I know nothing about suspension and will be taking it to a shop to install.

Again does anyone know if you HAVE to use the X2 or X5 ball joints with teh steeda kit?

 

[g36 monkey]

Ok so I pretty much don't need bump steer? Kind of what I got out of your post. Again, its only B springs with no isos up front and both iso's in the back. Don't hate the rake ;p

 

[ttocs]

you car is lowered?

it isn't something that will prevent something else from wearing out, it is just to help maintain control of the car when hitting a bump. If I had no found one NIB that was cheaper I would go with out it.

 

[robb15033]

Yes, I believe that you will be perfectly fine with just the "B" springs. I would read ReplicaR's post again and then go to the STICKY and study before you make a move. That's because there may be issues down the road with the stock struts/shocks. There is alot to the suspension in a whole. I researched and studied a bit for a couple years (and saved money for) before making a move.
FYI: My signature picture shows Ford "B" springs on the car.

 

[ttocs]

I know nothing about suspension and will be taking it to a shop to install.

Again does anyone know if you HAVE to use the X2 or X5 ball joints with teh steeda kit?

can anyone answer this question?

 

[ReplicaR]

For street driven cars, that have a front suspension that has not been significantlt altered (moved rack&pinion, moved spindles) I seriously doubt that there is much gain to see, especially if you choose to ball park the bump steer adjustment, rather than actually dial it in. A lot of people think that by installing a bumpsteer kit, and dialing it in, the car will stop swerving all over the road over uneven serfaces. While it will help a little, most of what is called tramlining actually has to do with the tire surface than the actual bump steer. Bumpsteer is most evident on the track under aggressive driving. When the suspension compresses, the toe angle changes, so that results in two things

1. You end up with a different toe angle you had when you initially turned in for the corner. As the suspension compresses, the wheel usually toes out just a little bit, so little to your knowledge, the steering wheel imput does not correspond to what the front wheels are doing. That's the difference between understeer, oversteer, or staying on line.

2. Not all tracks are smooth. Most of them have bumps and uneven surfaces in the middle of the corner. When you hit those bumps, suspension compresses again, changing that toe angle, and leaving the car slightly unsettled through the corner. For example, Turn 8 at WSIR is a triple digit corner. In my slow car, I enter it doing 110mph. There are a few good bumps all the way through the corner, right into the braking zone. This is the last place you want to feel unsettled. It does not really effect me that much, just because I'm running a fairly wide and sticky tire, but for someone who is on a smaller tire, might have a bigger problem.

 

[g36 monkey]

Yes, I believe that you will be perfectly fine with just the "B" springs. I would read ReplicaR's post again and then go to the STICKY and study before you make a move. That's because there may be issues down the road with the stock struts/shocks. There is alot to the suspension in a whole. I researched and studied a bit for a couple years (and saved money for) before making a move.
FYI: My signature picture shows Ford "B" springs on the car.

I know suspension can be touchy. I just didn't want to go buy things I don't really need. So do I need CC plates since it's only a small drop? Sorry for being a noob. This is why we have forums

 

[ReplicaR]

Get cc plates just to align it properly, and don't worry about bump steer unless you are going to track the car soon.

 

[robb15033]

I know suspension can be touchy. I just didn't want to go buy things I don't really need. So do I need CC plates since it's only a small drop? Sorry for being a noob. This is why we have forums

Yes, you are right and this is the best forum to be asking the questions. Although I have done all the modifications to the car myself, I still have a ton to learn. My plan is to keep learning with multiple Mustangs. We'll see.
And FYI: I believe the additional suspension parts come into play when you decide that you want a 2"+ drop on the car and what ReplicaR explained.
Have you purchased the "B" springs yet? I installed "B" springs and I am extremely happy with them. I couldn't be happier with the ride quality over stock which sucked in comparison. But, The "F" springs are spec'ed for the V6 and the "C" are stiffer, ect..... just some other options if interested.
If you decide to go with more of a drop later down the road, I have noticed that here where I live, the Mustang shops seem to have the bumpsteer boards to dial it in.

 

[g36 monkey]

The car will only go on a small road course around here. Nothing crazy like what you do. If it sees 3rd gear at all, it's for a split second.

I appreciate the help guys!

Robb, I don't even have the springs yet, I just no Ryan (Atlanticblue98) has them on his car and I love the stance

 

[ttocs]

glad somebody got help. I will assume no one has a steeda bump steer kit.

 

[ReplicaR]

I've looked at the steeda bumpsteer kit, and it looks exactly the same as all the other ones on the market. It's kinda hard to make them look different since essentially they all do the same thing. My guess, you will probably be fine running those with the Steeda ball joints. As I've said before, make sure you get bumpsteer dialed in using a gauge.

 

[robb15033]

glad somebody got help. I will assume no one has a steeda bump steer kit.

I installed a Maximum Motorsports bumpsteer kit with the Steeda balljoints. Same time I put on MaximumMotorsports caster camber plates, Ford's "B" springs, and KYB struts/shocks. It has been a big sense of accomplishment. My turning radius has increased and it handles bumps smoothly, got softer not stiffer, and turns don't pull you out of your seat to one side or the other.