I ordered a set of FORD RACING GT40 X303 heads and a edelbrock performer intake. I am also considering a new cam, but was wondering how bad of a job it will be with the engine still in the car. I know I will have to remove the radiator, but how about the condenser and nose clip? Thanks for the input
Cam swap question
- Thread starter topless95
- Start date
Steeda #19 cam and the TFS Stage 1 cam are very popular and work well with a wide variety of combinations. There is always the Ford Alphabet cams but you would be more happy w/ one of the other cams. Those are two of the top choices people make, there are other good cams out there to
I have the Crane 2031 which is a proven power maker also...that is 214/220 .513/.529 112 LSA
On a side note...
The TFS stg 1 and E Cam are very very similiar grinds.
TFS = 221/225 499/510 112 LSA
E303 = 220/220 498/498 110 LSA
Both are good cams, people want to put the E303 down because it is older. It is a proven power maker time and time again. There are tons of people making 10 second passes with it.
On a side note...
The TFS stg 1 and E Cam are very very similiar grinds.
TFS = 221/225 499/510 112 LSA
E303 = 220/220 498/498 110 LSA
Both are good cams, people want to put the E303 down because it is older. It is a proven power maker time and time again. There are tons of people making 10 second passes with it.
OnyxCobra
Post Whore
1quk50 said:
sorry but obviously not a true statement at all.
this is what the guys from ford racing told me, but i dont know how true it is: they told me that with a stock motor you cant go over .512 lift and with the stock bottom end and with the x303 heads you cant go more than a .500 lift cause the intake valves are 1.94 instead of the 1.90 valves in a lot of other aftermarket heads
1quk50 said:
Not true one cam may fit one persons engine with out any PTV issues. Use the same cam and another 302 with the same setup and it could hit.
No one engine is identicle.
stang94X said:
What would cam size have to do with the bottom end - do you mean piston and the reliefs?
The only reason to worry about lift would be valve float. Lift has nothing to do with PTV clearance. Duration is what you want to look at bud.
As far as 1.94 valves and a stock piston, I know a lot of people running a 1.94 intake valve and a stock rotating assembly.
stang94X said:
What would cam size have to do with the bottom end - do you mean piston and the reliefs?
The only reason to worry about lift would be valve float. Lift has nothing to do with PTV clearance. Duration is what you want to look at bud.
As far as 1.94 valves and a stock piston, I know a lot of people running a 1.94 intake valve and a stock rotating assembly.
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like i said i dont know how true it is, thats just what ford racing told me, and yeah the lift of a cam does come into play with ptv clearance, and yeah the diameter of the valve can also cause clearance issues, and duration is just how long the valve stays open and closed but with to high of a lift...bammmm...piston smashed a valve
94kingcbra
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You should be worried about PTV clearance on the exhaust stroke, when the exhaust valve is all the way open, and the piston is at the top of its rotation. Compression stroke at top dead center shouldn't be a problem because the gas has already been sucked in and both valves are closed in preparation for the ignition of the spark plug, AKA the power stroke.
This is where the clay comes in, (or you can use a tootsie roll and tape it to the piston) With the heads off, tape the tootsie roll with the wrapper on or stick the clay on the piston where it might encounter both valves. replace the gasket and heads temporarily, without tourquing anything, and slowly and carefully turn the crank a couple turns, if it gets tough, or you feel like you are going to break something, (like a valve) back the crank up and pulls the heads. If there is any part of the piston visible through the clay, or if you cut the tootsie roll in half then you will need to do some notching. I don't know the exact tolerances for clearance but if it's pretty tight you may need ask a engine shop. Good Luck
This is where the clay comes in, (or you can use a tootsie roll and tape it to the piston) With the heads off, tape the tootsie roll with the wrapper on or stick the clay on the piston where it might encounter both valves. replace the gasket and heads temporarily, without tourquing anything, and slowly and carefully turn the crank a couple turns, if it gets tough, or you feel like you are going to break something, (like a valve) back the crank up and pulls the heads. If there is any part of the piston visible through the clay, or if you cut the tootsie roll in half then you will need to do some notching. I don't know the exact tolerances for clearance but if it's pretty tight you may need ask a engine shop. Good Luck
