Camshaft Pos Sensor Problem|Fixed

MidniteGT

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Hey everyone, I'm new to the site and thought it looked good. So anyways, I'm getting bank 1 cps code and I went ahead and changed out both cps's. I also changed spark plugs and got new coil packs. Yet I'm still having problems starting car. I heard that it could be the diodes*sp* being bad in the alternator. Was just wondering if this could be a possibility before I go ahead and take my alternator off to get it tested.

Thanks
 

duff daddy

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Re: Camshaft Pos Sensor Problem

whats the issue your having exactly. "problems starting the car" what happens??? we dont need your dianosis just tell us what happens when you go out to the car and hopefully we can narrow it down for ya!! :thumbsup:

welcome btw!!!!

What year is the car, motor any mods.
 
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MidniteGT

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Re: Camshaft Pos Sensor Problem

2002 Mustang GT, MAC o/r h pipe and flow40's and that is pretty much it.

When car has been sitting for a few hours it usually starts right up. After 10 minutes of driving and turning the car off. Starting it back up it will try to start but die then backfire. Usually does it twice before I can keep it cranked up. Also, it runs pretty rich right now.
 
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MidniteGT

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Re: Camshaft Pos Sensor Problem

I put my old coil packs on today and it still starts rough, but it doesn't try to stall out on me now. I'm wondering if that both the coil packs could be bad, if anyone has info on that, that would be awesome. Also, does anyone know if the diodes on the alternator could be the reason. Sorry for all the questions. I'm pretty new to auto mechanics.
 
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MidniteGT

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Re: Camshaft Pos Sensor Problem

Just changed when I put the new coil packs on about a week ago.
 

nyuk98gt

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Re: Camshaft Pos Sensor Problem

MidniteGT:

As odd as it sounds, the alternator (or a weak battery) could be causing the problem. I would not hesitate in taking the alternator in for testing.

Did you apply a bit of dielectric grease on the plug boots before installing them? The grease helps to keep moisture out and improve the electrical contact point.

HTH,

Chris
 
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MidniteGT

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Re: Camshaft Pos Sensor Problem

Well I went to advanced and got the guy to check my alternator out. Their machine said the alternator has excessive rippling. I didn't get a new alternator, but tommorow I'm going to take it off and check the diodes. Was wondering, do I just use a multimeter on that? Also what I found weird is the cps code went awayand I've been driving it for a while now. I unconnected the battery today to fix my cd player and everything reset, and for the first 30 minutes the car started right up. I thoguht that was a little strange.

Now at first withe the code popping up for the cps I thought that was the problem, but do you guys think my fuel pump could be going bad or that sensor. I can't test my pressure because I don't have access to getting a tester right now.
 
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MidniteGT

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Re: Camshaft Pos Sensor Problem

Well I got a fuel pressure and tested it and the pump when put on tthe on position gave me about 14(eww). Then it was 12 the second time. When I ran the car it went up to 38 or so and stayed around there. So now I'm gussing that is where my problem lies. Do you guys think its the pump? I don't know much about fuelsystems so all I know is 14 psi is bad and it should be around 38.

Thanks everyone
 

nyuk98gt

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Re: Camshaft Pos Sensor Problem

MidniteGT:

The fuel rail pressure sensor (FRPS) is sometimes a problem with the +99 cars. You are correct that the fuel pressure should be 38 or 39 psig at idle. Fuel filter has been changed regularly? You don't drive around a lot with the fuel gauge on "E", do you? Low level in the tank makes the pump work harder since there is less head (liquid height) "pushing" fuel into the pump suction.

I don't know how to check the FRPS but you might try watching the fuel pressure with the FRPS connected and then disconnected.

edit
Re-reading your post I see that the fuel pressure is OK when driving around. This suggests to me that the pump is OK. I would take a look at the FRPS (if the filter is clean, etc.).
end of edit


HTH,

Chris
 
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MidniteGT

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Re: Camshaft Pos Sensor Problem

nyuk98gt said:
MidniteGT:

The fuel rail pressure sensor (FRPS) is sometimes a problem with the +99 cars. You are correct that the fuel pressure should be 38 or 39 psig at idle. Fuel filter has been changed regularly? You don't drive around a lot with the fuel gauge on "E", do you? Low level in the tank makes the pump work harder since there is less head (liquid height) "pushing" fuel into the pump suction.

I don't know how to check the FRPS but you might try watching the fuel pressure with the FRPS connected and then disconnected.

edit
Re-reading your post I see that the fuel pressure is OK when driving around. This suggests to me that the pump is OK. I would take a look at the FRPS (if the filter is clean, etc.).
end of edit


HTH,

Chris

So the pump still might be good since when it is running that it puts out 38psi? Sadly, my fuel filter hasn't been changed on a regular basis since I have not had time lately, but before the last time it was changed it was always changed in a timely manner. I do not drive around on 'e' much. I will regularly fill it at least 3/4 full and run it down to fuel light or betweent e and 1/4. My father said something about the FRPS and something else but he used an acronym so I didn't know what he is talking about. I'll do some research on the FRPS and change my fuel filter. Is there anything else I should take a look at before i point towards a fuel pump?

Also I dont know if this is safe or bad but is it okay(in the meantime until I figure out the problem) to "prime"(turn the key to on 2-3 times to get the fuel pump to pressurize around 38psi) before I start the car or should i just try to start it and let it bog down and backfire untill i get it started?

Thanks

Edit: I had nyuk98gt quoted twice.
 

nyuk98gt

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Re: Camshaft Pos Sensor Problem

MidniteGT:

I don't see any harm in priming the system by cycling your key several times. That makes me wonder if the +99's have a non-return edit (NR) end-of-edit valve at the pump to prevent the line from draining back into the tank. If there is a NR valve then the one in your tank may be weak and this is why you have to prime it several times before cranking. I'll see what I can dig up in a search or two.

FRPS = fuel rail pressure sensor. Your dad is a wise man.

Chris
 
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MidniteGT

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Re: Camshaft Pos Sensor Problem

From what my father told me 99+ is a returnless system(only one line from gas tank to engine) and that there is a fuel pump driver modular(is that what you might mean when you talk about a NR Valve Chris?) which takes the reading from the frps(I believe that is what he said) and modulates the pump so its not working 100% of the time therefor not needing a return line nor a regulator. also said some times that FPDM when hot will not work properly when started back up. What he doesn't know if there is a way to check them individually to see if one might be not working properly. That is about the most i know of this system now. My father has never worked on a 99+ so that is all the info he had to give to me, which was a lot more than I knew hehe.
 

nyuk98gt

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Re: Camshaft Pos Sensor Problem

MidniteGT:

NR = non-return (as in non-return valve - prevents reverse flow).

I have a pre-99 model and it has a return style fuel system. I'll look around for test procedures for FPDM's.

Chris
 
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MidniteGT

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Re: Camshaft Pos Sensor Problem

I havn't been able to find anything about the frps or fpdm online stupid crap keeps coming up when I search for it.
 
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MidniteGT

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Re: Camshaft Pos Sensor Problem|Fuel Pressure Problem

Well I ended up replacing the alternator and the problem has not happend since car is also running a lot better than it was. This weekend I'll hook up the fuel pressure tester againand see what kind of psi I'm getting but I think this is the problem. I can also hear my fuel pump a lot better when I switch the ignition to on.
 

nyuk98gt

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MidniteGT:

Excellent! Glad to hear it turned out to be something simple (rather than a wiring, ignition, or fuel system problem). Thank you for posting an update. It will help future searchers and they will appreciate it.

EDIT:

Not to be a buzzkill but if your alternator was not working well you should keep an eye on your battery especially with the hot weather coming up. Heat kills batteries so if it is weak then you may get stranded. A Battery Tender (around $50) is always a good investment, imho.

END OF EDIT.

Chris
 
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MidniteGT

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+1 to the battery. I had it checked today and it is good to go. I learned that lesson(going through alternators cause bad battery) from my last mustang.
 

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