I searched but couldn't find any write ups on changing tranny's. Nothing special just putting in a rebuilt one. I have replaced trannys befor but never on a mustang....is there anything speacial I should look for or be carful with?
Changing trans
- Thread starter Bigdaddy
- Start date
If its Auto, here's one i did:
I had to take mine in and out by myself no big deal, but here's how i went about it.
How i removed my AODE box, this would also cover earlier AOD and some of the later set-ups too.
For anyone about to, or going to remove their AODE, the manual is pretty useless. [read absolutely useless].
Not having removed many auto transmissions since my 3 litre Capri days, its nice to know its still very similar.
First thing after taking off the negative battery terminal is to remove the x-pipe or whatever centre exhaust section your running, there's 2 manifold nuts each side front, 2 nuts\bolts each side at rear, and finally the centre mounting. If your running oxygen sensors unplug them.
If your running smog gear theres a tricky little pipe going into the smog system to undo, mine is'nt fitted, so no worries there.
Ok, Auto trans are HEAVY so to avoid mess later, and to lighten it up, drain the fluid if you want.
That means remove the rubber bung\grommet in the bellhousing and rotating the engine till you can feel the head of the
11mm drain plug on the converter, remove it and have a BIG bowl ready. If yours does'nt have the drain plug no matter, i removed the oil pan anyway to get the rest of the fluid out, just leave about 2 bolts in at the rear so the fluid comes out real slow into another
fairly large bowl, when its stopped dripping loosen the last two bolts, more comes out, when its about done, lower the pan slowly into
the bowl, there's still a lot of fluid in, so lower it down slowly to avoid mess, after this you can pull the filter out and leave to drain for a while.
Moving to passenger side front, looking up remove the 2 cooling pipes first, and the starter motor bolts, the bottom bolt is easy,
i used 2 extensions that pass above the motor mount to get the trickier top one off.
Next replace the oil pan. Undo the 13mm nut from the shift linkage [you can scribe it if your putting back the same trans] and the 2 bolts securing the cable to the box,i then unplugged the connector and removed the 2 8mm headed bolts from the inhibitor switch,
and put that away safe, then the 10mm bolt that holds in the speedo drive at the rear in the tail shaft housing, a slight twist and out it comes.[mark where the inhibitor switch was as its adjustable].
There are a few other connectors on the box, all but one can be reached about now and unplugged. The trans wiring harness is "fastened" to the box,a large bladed screwdrive will pop the harness off,and it also has a plastic plug holding the harness to the tranny dipstick bracket, pop that off too.
Moving to the rear undo the first 2 propshaft [driveshaft] bolts, if you did'nt leave the lever in park you can operate the linkage by hand to lock it up to undo the very tight bolts, i used the ring end of a Snap On 12mm combi wrench. Operate the linkage till your in neutral, spin the prop round till you can get on the other 2 bolts,back into park, and undo, pull the prop back slowly and lower to the ground out of the way.
At the front remove the 3 bolts holding the Torque Converter dust cover on, now you can gain access to the 4 nuts that hold the converter to the flexi-plate, these 4 nuts need to come off, they are'nt too tight but will need something to help crack them off, i used a socket on the crank pulley bolt to hold it all tight while undoing each one, the crank can be rotated then to bring each one into view for removal, though you can often see 2 to undo at a time.
Then push the converter gently back "into" the bellhousing. Your not far off now.
Unless there's a few of you to drop it out [or you have a transmission jack, the whole thing is about 240lbs without fluid]], i cut a square of plywood to go on the trolley jack and put it in between.Just take the weight of the trans on the jack, next remove the rear tranny mounting, there's 2 bolts to the chassis, then two nuts holding that to the box if you want to remove it.
Once thats off lower the box a little. IF YOUR INTAKE IS CLOSE TO THE HOOD TO START WITH, HAVE THE HOOD OPEN< If its very close it could ding your hood when the motor tilts back.
Undo the trans to motor bolt that holds the filler tube on, give the tube a slight twist left to right, then twist up, it should now come out.
Undo the rest of the trans\motor bolts, the top two require a universal joint between the extension bar and socket, theres a small plate up there too, that holds the tranny loom, you can tie that out of the way from above.
Gently [and if it does'nt move wiggle it harder] from the tailend, rock the box left and right up and down, to separate the two, there are two dowels locating the box to the motor, if they have been together a while you might struggle.
Once its coming apart, you can start to lower the box to the floor, its pretty heavy so go slow.
Replacement should be a reversal of this procedure as they say, and there's probably different and better ways than mine,
in fact trying to remember the exact order a day or 3 later is fun, if i forgot something, my apologies.
Make sure [with a little emery cloth] that the "snub" of the converter, and where it locates in the crank end [through the flexi-plate] is good and clean, and that both locating dowels in the engine are suitably cleaned.
When replacing the box, as you bring engine and box together, check through the inspection plate hole, and make sure the 4 converter
studs are lining up with the 4 matching holes in the flexi plate.
If its manual, forget the above. :rollinglaugh:
I had to take mine in and out by myself no big deal, but here's how i went about it.
How i removed my AODE box, this would also cover earlier AOD and some of the later set-ups too.
For anyone about to, or going to remove their AODE, the manual is pretty useless. [read absolutely useless].
Not having removed many auto transmissions since my 3 litre Capri days, its nice to know its still very similar.
First thing after taking off the negative battery terminal is to remove the x-pipe or whatever centre exhaust section your running, there's 2 manifold nuts each side front, 2 nuts\bolts each side at rear, and finally the centre mounting. If your running oxygen sensors unplug them.
If your running smog gear theres a tricky little pipe going into the smog system to undo, mine is'nt fitted, so no worries there.
Ok, Auto trans are HEAVY so to avoid mess later, and to lighten it up, drain the fluid if you want.
That means remove the rubber bung\grommet in the bellhousing and rotating the engine till you can feel the head of the
11mm drain plug on the converter, remove it and have a BIG bowl ready. If yours does'nt have the drain plug no matter, i removed the oil pan anyway to get the rest of the fluid out, just leave about 2 bolts in at the rear so the fluid comes out real slow into another
fairly large bowl, when its stopped dripping loosen the last two bolts, more comes out, when its about done, lower the pan slowly into
the bowl, there's still a lot of fluid in, so lower it down slowly to avoid mess, after this you can pull the filter out and leave to drain for a while.
Moving to passenger side front, looking up remove the 2 cooling pipes first, and the starter motor bolts, the bottom bolt is easy,
i used 2 extensions that pass above the motor mount to get the trickier top one off.
Next replace the oil pan. Undo the 13mm nut from the shift linkage [you can scribe it if your putting back the same trans] and the 2 bolts securing the cable to the box,i then unplugged the connector and removed the 2 8mm headed bolts from the inhibitor switch,
and put that away safe, then the 10mm bolt that holds in the speedo drive at the rear in the tail shaft housing, a slight twist and out it comes.[mark where the inhibitor switch was as its adjustable].
There are a few other connectors on the box, all but one can be reached about now and unplugged. The trans wiring harness is "fastened" to the box,a large bladed screwdrive will pop the harness off,and it also has a plastic plug holding the harness to the tranny dipstick bracket, pop that off too.
Moving to the rear undo the first 2 propshaft [driveshaft] bolts, if you did'nt leave the lever in park you can operate the linkage by hand to lock it up to undo the very tight bolts, i used the ring end of a Snap On 12mm combi wrench. Operate the linkage till your in neutral, spin the prop round till you can get on the other 2 bolts,back into park, and undo, pull the prop back slowly and lower to the ground out of the way.
At the front remove the 3 bolts holding the Torque Converter dust cover on, now you can gain access to the 4 nuts that hold the converter to the flexi-plate, these 4 nuts need to come off, they are'nt too tight but will need something to help crack them off, i used a socket on the crank pulley bolt to hold it all tight while undoing each one, the crank can be rotated then to bring each one into view for removal, though you can often see 2 to undo at a time.
Then push the converter gently back "into" the bellhousing. Your not far off now.
Unless there's a few of you to drop it out [or you have a transmission jack, the whole thing is about 240lbs without fluid]], i cut a square of plywood to go on the trolley jack and put it in between.Just take the weight of the trans on the jack, next remove the rear tranny mounting, there's 2 bolts to the chassis, then two nuts holding that to the box if you want to remove it.
Once thats off lower the box a little. IF YOUR INTAKE IS CLOSE TO THE HOOD TO START WITH, HAVE THE HOOD OPEN< If its very close it could ding your hood when the motor tilts back.
Undo the trans to motor bolt that holds the filler tube on, give the tube a slight twist left to right, then twist up, it should now come out.
Undo the rest of the trans\motor bolts, the top two require a universal joint between the extension bar and socket, theres a small plate up there too, that holds the tranny loom, you can tie that out of the way from above.
Gently [and if it does'nt move wiggle it harder] from the tailend, rock the box left and right up and down, to separate the two, there are two dowels locating the box to the motor, if they have been together a while you might struggle.
Once its coming apart, you can start to lower the box to the floor, its pretty heavy so go slow.
Replacement should be a reversal of this procedure as they say, and there's probably different and better ways than mine,
in fact trying to remember the exact order a day or 3 later is fun, if i forgot something, my apologies.
Make sure [with a little emery cloth] that the "snub" of the converter, and where it locates in the crank end [through the flexi-plate] is good and clean, and that both locating dowels in the engine are suitably cleaned.
When replacing the box, as you bring engine and box together, check through the inspection plate hole, and make sure the 4 converter
studs are lining up with the 4 matching holes in the flexi plate.
If its manual, forget the above. :rollinglaugh:
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