Charging system issue and or issues

[godfearingman]

Hi I have an 94 GT with what I thought was bad alternator bought a used one from a friend. Had it checked along with one on the car when I bought it a few months ago. They both passed found out there was an harness unplugged plugged it back in thinking I had fixed my charging issue. Until today that is its back not charging right again. Only show around 12.3v running and 12.6 off as well as only being maybe quarter way on the battery gauge inside the car. But when I thought it was fixed by plugging the connector back together wen back up to 14.2v. But back down like it was originally don't know if its related or not but it barely wants to run and sputters and acts like its wanting to cut off. Which it wasn't doing when I thought my alternator was going out. Can anyone help me figure out where to start? Thanks in advance!

 

[ttocs]

how old is the battery?

 

[godfearingman]

how old is the battery?

I bought it June or July and had to get a replacement November 8 of last year one the issues that's funny is the battery gauge in the instrument cluster isn't halfway like it was when I thought I fixed its back to maybe quarter way stays around the n and o in normal. Plus the connectors don't snap in anymore because to the tabs being broken off but they were like that before I can post some pictures of the them if needed.

 

[ttocs]

connectors do not snap in?

 

[godfearingman]

connectors do not snap in?

No they go on but the connectors that snaps them in are broken on both connectors trying upload photos to photobucket but having issues and have for at least an week now. I'll post pictures if and or when photobucket will upload them. I switched to Flickr had someone on another forum saying there having and so are a lot of people are having the same issues. Said Flickr is better luckily I had an yahoo email from years ago lol

[/URL]Voltage by mustangnick73, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/URL]Power by mustangnick73, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/URL]New small by mustangnick73, on Flickr[/IMG]

 

[ttocs]

That is where I would start then. Fix the easy stuff you can see.

 

[godfearingman]

That is where I would start then. Fix the easy stuff you can see.

only thing about them is they were the same when I thought I had it fixed before and after not saying there the issue or not but don't know why I'm having the same issue again. Also noticed a strong gas smell outside the car while its acting like its wanting to cut off. I replaced the fuel filter with one I thought was new from the previous owner.

 

[ttocs]

with out those clips it will work probably as well as it can when you first plug them in. But after a while vibrations would slowly force them apart, corrosion would probably start to develop and the connection would get worse and worse. Now to clean that corrosion off all you probably need to to is plug them in and the sliding of the metal/metal connection would clean it and it would again be good. Until it starts to vibrate apart again. Corrosion at any one of those points could cause all kinds of electrical gremlins and when your chasing gremlins start simple and we will work our way up to the big stuff but if you don't start small you will often wish you did after going big.

 

[godfearingman]

with out those clips it will work probably as well as it can when you first plug them in. But after a while vibrations would slowly force them apart, corrosion would probably start to develop and the connection would get worse and worse. Now to clean that corrosion off all you probably need to to is plug them in and the sliding of the metal/metal connection would clean it and it would again be good. Until it starts to vibrate apart again. Corrosion at any one of those points could cause all kinds of electrical gremlins and when your chasing gremlins start simple and we will work our way up to the big stuff but if you don't start small you will often wish you did after going big.

Ok I think I can find the voltage regulator connector but don't know about the single wire connector don't know what it's called to try and find it I saw a alternator connector but it was a two wire hookup not one. Never mind I found it and the voltage regulator on eBay lol its called the stator connector don't think I can get it at a local parts store or the dealership either at least not the same day so I'll probably order both connectors off eBay but found out LMR had them cheaper with free shipping supposed to be here by Feb 1st I'll install them and let you know the results. If that doesn't fix it at least I'll know the alternator connections are good do I need to replace the power wire that bolts to the alternator?

 

[ttocs]

when you replace those be sure to solder the connections. Crimp connections under the hood never hold up. Heat shrink is the best method of insulating, tape is acceptable.

 

[godfearingman]

when you replace those be sure to solder the connections. Crimp connections under the hood never hold up. Heat shrink is the best method of insulating, tape is acceptable.

Ok thanks I've only soldered a couple times guess no better time than the present once I get the connectors that is lol

 

[godfearingman]

I think I've pin pointed the area where my trouble is had someone on another forum say if the amp/battery light isn't working it's not going to charge right nor show the right voltage on the battery gauge in the instrument cluster. Found there's some wire and or wires that's shorting out or something. the amp/battery light wouldn't come on with know good bulb and socket found pushing in on the cluster thinking against the wiring it'll come on and stay and the battery gauge goes a hair above the halfway mark. Started raining so I can't go to deep into trying to trace down wire and or wires or whatever is causing the light not wanting to come on and stay on its on all the time. Once I can get the light on it'll stay on unless I remove the cluster again any suggestions as to where to start my search for the culprit?

 

[ttocs]

those wires leading up to the alt are what that light uses to gauge if its working correctly or not and if it needs to be lit up or not. A little corrosion on those connections would easily make the computer think there is a problem. Have you checked codes yet?

 

[godfearingman]

those wires leading up to the alt are what that light uses to gauge if its working correctly or not and if it needs to be lit up or not. A little corrosion on those connections would easily make the computer think there is a problem. Have you checked codes yet?

No haven't pulled codes but found out when the amp/battery light is on the battery gauge goes from around the O in normal to a hair over halfway with it on. I noticed that a couple of the copper circuit board leads that fold over where the harnesses plugs into the cluster were crooked and slightly folded up I can straighten them out and the light comes on and stays on I'm thinking the copper circuits boards is the issue I'll attach a photo so you can see what I"m talking about but it does do a lot better when the amp/battery light is on.

[/URL]20160127_134851 by mustangnick73, on Flickr[/IMG]