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check engine light of header install
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<blockquote data-quote="mcglsr2" data-source="post: 1397337" data-attributes="member: 15705"><p>Your longtubes won't be hotter where your O2 is, if anything, they will be cooler. The further the exhaust gas gets from the engine, the cooler it gets.</p><p></p><p>Yup, what others are saying. Forget that OBD2 port. Use the connector under the hood. It is located on the passenger side, between the firewall and shock tower, on the fender. It's a specific connector for the Ford, and your Scan Tool will need this connector and be able to read OBDI stuffs.</p><p></p><p>Do you have cats? Do you have the smog pump still in place? EGR? If the answer is yes to all of this, and you got a check engine light after your swap, make sure you re-hooked up all your emissions stuff. If you didn't, you will get a MIL.</p><p></p><p>If the answer is no to all or some of that stuff, then you will still get a MIL. The ECU, during certain portions of driving, will kick on all the emission stuff. If that stuff is no long present to respond to the ECU's commands, the ECU will throw a MIL. This is normal, and will go away after a couple min of driving when it stops trying to enable the emissions stuff. You can remove this MIL by getting a QuarterHorse/Tune and have them turn off the emissions stuff in the tune.</p><p></p><p>Also, depending on the code you read, you could also have a bad O2. And in the past, some extensions have been known to cause problems, though it's not common. What extensions did you buy? BBK ones?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mcglsr2, post: 1397337, member: 15705"] Your longtubes won't be hotter where your O2 is, if anything, they will be cooler. The further the exhaust gas gets from the engine, the cooler it gets. Yup, what others are saying. Forget that OBD2 port. Use the connector under the hood. It is located on the passenger side, between the firewall and shock tower, on the fender. It's a specific connector for the Ford, and your Scan Tool will need this connector and be able to read OBDI stuffs. Do you have cats? Do you have the smog pump still in place? EGR? If the answer is yes to all of this, and you got a check engine light after your swap, make sure you re-hooked up all your emissions stuff. If you didn't, you will get a MIL. If the answer is no to all or some of that stuff, then you will still get a MIL. The ECU, during certain portions of driving, will kick on all the emission stuff. If that stuff is no long present to respond to the ECU's commands, the ECU will throw a MIL. This is normal, and will go away after a couple min of driving when it stops trying to enable the emissions stuff. You can remove this MIL by getting a QuarterHorse/Tune and have them turn off the emissions stuff in the tune. Also, depending on the code you read, you could also have a bad O2. And in the past, some extensions have been known to cause problems, though it's not common. What extensions did you buy? BBK ones? [/QUOTE]
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