Clutch vibrate...

GUIL-BOT · Sep 16, 2009

Hi,

I got my stang 1 week ago, with new clutch, flywheel and clutch kit. I drove it all week long ( 800 km( 500miles) )? And since couple days, my clutch started to vibrate really fast ( up and down ) when my RPM is about 2500 to 4000?It?s only vibrating after a while I was wondering what can cause this problem. Do you think it can be the clutch adjuster?

Thanks,

Alex

Rice_slayer · Sep 16, 2009

My whole car does this kinda( clutch pedal vibrates instensely) at 80mph, no matter the engine RPM. I think It's a shot bearing in my tranny most likely,.

GDTrumbo · Sep 16, 2009

Could also be a worn pilot bearing. The front bearing in the trans centers the input shaft from the rear and at the flywheel, the pilot bearing centers the front of the shaft.

In this scenario, if the clutch is not centered well upon clutch release, it stays in this slightly off-center position until the clutch is released once again. Theoretically, the vibration could feel a little different every time depending on how briskly the clutch was last released. It would have to be worn pretty bad for this to occur.

There are many things rotating that can cause vibrations though. You might inspect your harmonic balancer as well. Does the engine vibrate at a stand still at this given 2500 rpm and up??

Under hard launches the trans input shaft can also become twisted over time. The GT's input shaft is not case hardened as the Cobra's are.

GT

x182dan · Sep 16, 2009

what kinda clutch did you put on there?

GDTrumbo · Sep 16, 2009

Sig says a Spec Stg. 2. Incorrect flywheel? Isn't there 2 types of flywheels for the 5.0L.

GT

x182dan · Sep 16, 2009

could it be misaligned?

GDTrumbo · Sep 16, 2009

If an alignment tool was used and the press. plate was torqued correctly, he should be good to go there.

The trans obviously entered through the clutch disc and into the pilot bearing or he would be hoofin' it.

GT

Win · Sep 16, 2009

GDTrumbo said:
Could also be a worn pilot bearing. The front bearing in the trans centers the input shaft from the rear and at the flywheel, the pilot bearing centers the front of the shaft.

In this scenario, if the clutch is not centered well upon clutch release, it stays in this slightly off-center position until the clutch is released once again. Theoretically, the vibration could feel a little different every time depending on how briskly the clutch was last released. It would have to be worn pretty bad for this to occur.

There are many things rotating that can cause vibrations though. You might inspect your harmonic balancer as well. Does the engine vibrate at a stand still at this given 2500 rpm and up??

Under hard launches the trans input shaft can also become twisted over time. The GT's input shaft is not case hardened as the Cobra's are.

GT

+1 on the pilot bearing

GUIL-BOT · Sep 17, 2009

I drove my car to the garage this morning... Can't wait to see what's the problem!

Win · Sep 17, 2009

Who did the install??

GUIL-BOT · Sep 18, 2009

Win said:
Who did the install??

A transmission shop...

Ok well now this is the new problem... Yesterday I called the garage to ask if my car was ready and told me it was... By the same time, my dad went there and asks them how the mustang was. They told him the clutch was not good.. They said when it's hot it's curving.... When my dad told me that I was like.. Ok well I will return the clutch and ask for a new one... But my dad also told me that if I get this new clutch I need to pay again the labor for the installation...

Anyway, yesterday I went for a long stop/go drive for about 60 km to see if the vibration were still there... no vibrations anymore... But now there is a new problem... When I don't press the clutch pedal, there is a fast squeaking noise coming out of from somewhere and the faster I go the noise go faster too?but when I put my foot on the pedal the noise stop? What do you think it could be?
Thanks,

Alex

GDTrumbo · Sep 18, 2009

Well crap......

Could be a number of things. TOB retainer worn (tube TOB rides on), clutch fork, clutch adjustment, etc.
Does this car still have the OEM plastic quadrant/cable?

May want to live with the noise until after the clutch is broken in and then address the noise. There's a chance it will go away by the time the clutch is broken in. Be real easy for 800 to 1000 miles.

GT

GUIL-BOT · Sep 18, 2009

Well I did 802 km with this new clutch... I also bouth:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda-adjustable-clutch-kit-8395.html

I know it can be alot of things -.- F--k I'm sick of having problems ! :BangHead: :BangHead:

Paul · Sep 18, 2009

GUIL-BOT said:
They told him the clutch was not good.. They said when it's hot it's curving....

That's the biggest bunch of BULLSHYT I've ever heard.

It's also code for "We fvcked up the install."

Jetsetter · Sep 18, 2009

GUIL-BOT said:
Ok well now this is the new problem... Yesterday I called the garage to ask if my car was ready and told me it was... By the same time, my dad went there and asks them how the mustang was. They told him the clutch was not good.. They said when it's hot it's curving.... When my dad told me that I was like.. Ok well I will return the clutch and ask for a new one... But my dad also told me that if I get this new clutch I need to pay again the labor for the installation...

That's straight fucking bullshit. Your clutch came with a warranty? If it didn't that was stupid to take it there. If it does it is the transmission shops responsibility to fix it without charging you. You obviously haven't abused it so it is them who fucked up.

There's a lot of shitty transmission shops that give the honest ones like us a bad name.

GDTrumbo · Sep 21, 2009

GUIL-BOT said:
Well I did 802 km with this new clutch... I also bouth:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda-adjustable-clutch-kit-8395.html

I know it can be alot of things -.- F--k I'm sick of having problems ! :BangHead: :BangHead:

The aftermarket quad & adjuster are probably fine. The aftermarket cables are very problematic. Use your OEM cable if at all possible.

Do your research on parts before you jump in and buy. Some parts just add headaches.....

GT

GUIL-BOT · Sep 21, 2009

Paul said:
That's the biggest bunch of BULLSHYT I've ever heard.
It's also code for "We fvcked up the install."

I totally agree with you!

GDTrumbo said:
The aftermarket quad & adjuster are probably fine. The aftermarket cables are very problematic. Use your OEM cable if at all possible.
Do your researches on parts before you jump in and buy. Some parts just add headaches.....

Okay I will look at it. Some of my friends told me that I could be the release bearing or the pilot bearing. So I ordered both of them like 10 minutes ago...

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-7600A
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M7548A

Oh well... It will be in the garage for the winter pretty soon anyway.. No more problems for couple months haha!

Paul · Sep 21, 2009

So this shop didn't replace the throwout bearing and pilot bearing when they did the clutch install? Are you kidding?

GUIL-BOT · Sep 21, 2009

Paul said:
So this shop didn't replace the throwout bearing and pilot bearing when they did the clutch install? Are you kidding?

Well I think they installed it... But not sure if it was done correctly..
They fixed the vibration.. I don't know how... but now it's squeaking really fast when in press on the clutch.

I taught that maybe the bearing was not good or something... So I ordered new ones... The shipping from where I live to the Spec compagny is expensif.. It was cheaper to order new one..