Cruise Control

i911fire

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When I first bought the Cobra the cruise control wouldn't engage and occasionally the protect circuit on the aftermarket stereo amp would trip. So I did some digging and fount that the #6 (15A) fuse was blown. So I replaced it and it did it again. This has happened several times. I have noticed that it will last longer if I leave the stereo off.

I have gone through the stereo installation and found several crapy connections. I have fixed the connections and gotten rid of the unneeded ones. However I keep blowing the 15A fuse. So in frustration I replaced it with a 30A while I was driving. It didn't blow.

I don't want to leave a 30A in there to cause problems later. Any ideas why the stereo would be popping this fuse? The stereo is installed with a direct plug kit. The factory amps have been removed and there is nothing connected to any other wire other than the continuous power, keyed power, illumination (I hooked that one up), ground and the amp turn on.

Any Ideas for circuits to check, please let me know any ideas and suggestions.

There is also a Python Model 500 alarm that has been installed too. So far no trouble with that one.

Thanks

Ryan
 

ttocs

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PUT THE 15A FUSE BACK IN OR PUT NOTHING IN BUT TAKE THE 30A OUT RIGHT NOW!!!!

Sorry to yell and all but that is honestly the #1 primo worst thing you can do in this situation and if it didn't cause any further damage you can count yourself lucky. We will need to figure out all the circuits on that fuse and then check them one at a time. It sucks but electrical gremlins always do but again I am completely serious about the bold capital letters...
 

evilcw311

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PUT THE 15A FUSE BACK IN OR PUT NOTHING IN BUT TAKE THE 30A OUT RIGHT NOW!!!!

Sorry to yell and all but that is honestly the #1 primo worst thing you can do in this situation and if it didn't cause any further damage you can count yourself lucky. We will need to figure out all the circuits on that fuse and then check them one at a time. It sucks but electrical gremlins always do but again I am completely serious about the bold capital letters...

Scott did you notice what op's name is?!? Kinda fitting with what can happen when putting too large of a fuse in don't ya think?!?! Lol


This message courtesy of crapatalk!
 

g36 monkey

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O yea I really do think!

Anyhow, do what Scott said

Edit:

Damn, [MENTION=11896]ttocs[/MENTION] beat me to it
 
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i911fire

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The 30A was just to see if it would pop. It didn't but rest assured the 30A was taken out shortly after I tried it. And yes ad you can tell by the handle, I am a firefighter.

Any ideas on what would be pulling all this current on this circuit?
 

ttocs

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not off the top of my head. Common current problems in the past few years have com from the mach amps if your using any of them but it was mainly just staying on all the time not drawing too much current. What year is your car? Do you have a volt/amp meter and know how to use it?
 
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i911fire

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All of the Mach amps are gone. All of the new amps are direct wired. I did notice that the stereo is using the remote amp turn on from the factory system. Maybe I will bypass that and just run a new wire and see if that helps. That would answer the question as to why my amp goes into protect mode every now and then.
 

ttocs

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you mentioned an aftermarket stereo but using the factory amp turn on.... This is confusing as the amp/remote turn on should come from the deck. Are you using the stock radio?
 
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i911fire

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So it is an Alpine Deck and Alpine Amps. Whoever installed the system used one of those plug and play harnesses for the power on the deck, no speaker or amp leads are hooked up. The Plug and Play harness has a hook up for a Power Antenna/Amp Turn On that is hooked up to the power ant lead off the head unit. There is also an amp turn on lead off the head unit run to the amp and connected to the high pass amp and then it continues over to the sub amp. Not sure why they connected the Power Ant/Amp Turn on. I am guessing since the Cobra doesn't have a power antenna that this is just a wire in the harness that just dead ends.
 

ttocs

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power ant wire only has +12v on it when the radio is on so not on CD/mp3 or any other source to keep a power antenna in the up position. If a deck has both outputs I would normally hook it up to the corresponding power ant wire in the aftermarket harness because you would only need one connector rather then two to terminate the wire that isn't used and can't ground out. It just ends at the harness then safely. The amp/remote turn on has +12v on it when ever the deck is on so that the amps will know when to stay on as long as the deck is. The amps should be hooked up to the remote turn on/amp turn on wire and it doesn't matter if there are two wires to the deck-amp-amp.

I think the amps turning off and the cruise/fuse are probably two different things. The amp will only go into protection if it gets too hot and needs to cool off or sometimes if the speaker wires short out. If you were jamming on it for a while in the summer it could get hot enough to shut down otherwise you need to check all the speaker connections.

Now the fuse blowing could be related to the decks power. Does the deck loose power when the fuse blows? You said the fuse lasts longer if the deck is off but I just need to make sure.

If there is no bare copper back there
 
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i911fire

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I did discover a blown tweeter so that may be my issue with the amp. The cruise i still have no idea on. The search continues.
 

ttocs

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not sure the tweeter being blown would cause any of this. Does the deck turn off when the fuse blows?
 

ttocs

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ok the amp going into protection is only because its too hot or the speaker wires might have shorted out but it has nothing to do with the fuse or the CC. I am not sure what year your car is yet to possibly be able to sort out what pieces could be on that fuse that is causing it to blow. My books are only good for 94/95 but we can probably hunt it down online.
 

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