dumb nitrous questions

ttocs · Jul 6, 2012

been on the fence of adding it but I think I am going to go ahead and step over. While I have been looking into it and trying to learn as much as I can I am still a newb and have what are probably some dumb questions.

1.) why the hell do the kits cost so much? I mean it looks like a bottle, couple of solenoids, a switch er two, some line and the only real precision manf part would be the jets. It seems like you could almost piece one together for cheaper?

2.) used kits - anything to be afraid of? There are a couple here locally that are good names and I wondered if it was worth it to buy those and rebuilt the solenoids or just go new?

3.) window switch - While I know I would be able to install it with my wiring exp I have no idea what it good/bad/ugly? I don't mind spending the cash to get a good one but I do not even know what that would have. I was told to avoid the "pill" style but not sure what that is. If you could give a name or a link to a descent/good one it would be much appreciated.

4.)

1997GT4.6 · Jul 6, 2012

the answer to #4 is no.

I mostly buy everything new, I don't want to get jibbed. I'll follow this thread as I have some of those questions myself.

ttocs · Jul 6, 2012

well that is why I ask.... I have been burned on used parts before.

Larius91 · Jul 7, 2012

There had to be a "redesign" of sorts to the solenoids because ethanol is now being used in fuels. But they've always been pretty expensive. If you buy a used kit, make sure it's not really old. Old solenoids being used with today's fuel can fail because the rubber inside the solenoids dry out. Buying a window switch is highly recommended, if you miss a shift and over rev say good a prayer your motor holds. I recommend this one. http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...s-Efi-Drive-By-Wire-Wide-Open-Throttle-Switch. I would also recommend a bottle heater, bottle pressure gauge and a blow down tube.

ttocs · Jul 7, 2012

window switch will NOT be an option it must be included and was just wanting to know a good one - thanks.

The gauges I run from PLX designs are upgradable with sensor modules so I was just going to get another one of them so I can see it from the seat. I also don't plan on running it daily and want access to it when I am ready so a remote bottle opener will also be used.
Bottle heater - maybe dunno yet.

I have been wanting to get it back on the dyno since eliminating my ignition problems I was having. I will do that and add a nitrous tune as well before I run it.

Did not know that bout the fuel in the solenoids, thanks again. I was eyeing a kit on ebay for a fair price but it is 8 yrs old. Would it still be worth it and then just get new solenoids or get these rebuilt?

Where would be the best place to put the jets? I would like to keep it low key and was wondering if it would be possible to do it on the bottom of the intake(94 cobra intake) and if anyone had any pics if they did? I am still polishing that other intake and will probably just drill/tap the hole while its out.

FrankenStang · Jul 7, 2012

i had a used zex dry kit, i got it for 100 bucks only....thing worked wonders...installed in under an hour and all i needed to do was change spark plugs to coppers...and i had an instant 100 HP when my RPM's got to a certain spot...the zex kit had the managent box...i really loved that kit but i sold it and got a great deal on my compcams n springs....and they are expensive because what other mod for that price and install time will net you that gain in HP ? as you can see i had my management box sitting by my passenger side shock tower,i didnt care for a stealth install,and i had the arming swiitch just ran under my seat...it was pretty cool being able to leave rubber when i was doing 50mph..

FrankenStang · Jul 7, 2012

AND, i was able to run a 100 dry shot on the stock fuel pump, stock fuel rails and stock 19lb injectors...granted i had copper plugs,102 oct gas,and other bolt on's....but i miss it,wish i had the money to keep the bottle filled 24/7...nos around here at its cheapest is 6 bucks a lb.

Larius91 · Jul 7, 2012

I would really consider a bottle warmer, heating it ensures you get a consistent pressure. Especially when the bottle starts to get empty. You're nitrous tune won't be very good with varying nitrous pressures. Can you post the link to the one you're look at on e-bay? Depending on the price you can buy a new fuel solenoid from Nitrous Outlet for a little over 70 bucks. I've always plumbed my nozzle right before the throttle body in the inlet tube. You can place it on the underside to keep it out of view. I don't recommend plumbing it into the actual intake unless you are using a plate system.

FrankenStang · Jul 7, 2012

ive always been told you dont wanna do it rite befor the Tbody but rite after the maf..i guess youd want it to get fully mixed befor it enters the sperate intake runner so the 1st few cyls dont get the mojority of the nitrous...bottle warmers and a pressure guage is a big help,i personally didint have one becuase my kit didnt come with them..hahaha i just stuck hand warmers on my bottle when i knew id be spraying alot.And id just to tap my bottle to determine how much was left,hehe im cheap.

ttocs · Jul 7, 2012

thought I did include the link sorry.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zex-Nitrous...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d02aac8ef&vxp=mtr

ends in 4 hrs but has all the goodies. What would be a good price?

1997GT4.6 · Jul 7, 2012

I understand why the bottle heater is needed, a 100 shot on 1000psi is much much better than a 100 shot at 900 psi. But, I've been told that I don't need one here in AZ as it is always 100+ degrees outside whether it be day or evening. Not sure how much of that is true? Not even sure if it correlates. But everyone here seems to just have a bare bottle in their trunks. Maybe they are not aware they need one or the temps here allow it not to be used?

ttocs · Jul 7, 2012

I lived in pheonix for 9 yrs and from may-sept it will not break 100 but in the winter it can get chilly-cold at night.

95opal · Jul 8, 2012

I would steer clear of used kits as you have no idea what kind of condition the solenoids are in. Window switch, pressure guage and bottle warmer should be mandatory other than that just make sure to retard your timing per your desired hp shot and check your plugs. You may have to play with jetting and plug gap to get things running smooth. Other than that juice is a blast.