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Elrod's 5.0 Revival
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<blockquote data-quote="ElrodKTPQ_89" data-source="post: 1442596" data-attributes="member: 18710"><p>Scott you’re right about one of the cables having a fusible link, but it’s on the alternator not the starter. And we’re also on the same page about not wanting a mass of cables all landing at the starter and splitting off from there especially with the headers. I’m trying to not only keep it as neat as possible but prevent anything from getting damaged as well. Also not wanting to have to land a bunch of cables on the fuse box. From the factory there were only two, power from the battery, and power to the alternator...with the starter wire also coming from the battery. In my head the way I described it first made the most sense to me because it was almost a replication of the factory wiring. </p><p></p><p>With the fuse box moved forward, the wire I have now (4awg) is not quite long enough to reach, that’s why I was thinking of using the distribution block mounted back closer to the fire wall to give me the extra length I needed. Ideally I want to route the starter and alternator wire from the driver side fender, that would keep it neat and up above the headers and I could use the bracket on the top of the bellhousing to secure the wiring harness to. </p><p></p><p>I could also do it this way I suppose: 1/0 feeding straight to the fuse box, another short 1/0 from the fuse box to the block, then 4awg from the block to the alternator and starter. That would minimize the cables in the engine bay as well as keeping it restricted to only two terminations at the fuse box. </p><p></p><p>[USER=20210]@lwarrior1016[/USER] I also agree with you that does sound like the simplest solution. But isn’t the rule with grounds to keep them as short as possible as well? My plan for the ground was to come off the (-) side of the battery thru the trunk floor to a spot on the chassis...whether it be something like the quad shock mount or I could weld a stud to the chassis strictly for the ground. And of course still make a good ground from the block to the chassis as well.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ElrodKTPQ_89, post: 1442596, member: 18710"] Scott you’re right about one of the cables having a fusible link, but it’s on the alternator not the starter. And we’re also on the same page about not wanting a mass of cables all landing at the starter and splitting off from there especially with the headers. I’m trying to not only keep it as neat as possible but prevent anything from getting damaged as well. Also not wanting to have to land a bunch of cables on the fuse box. From the factory there were only two, power from the battery, and power to the alternator...with the starter wire also coming from the battery. In my head the way I described it first made the most sense to me because it was almost a replication of the factory wiring. With the fuse box moved forward, the wire I have now (4awg) is not quite long enough to reach, that’s why I was thinking of using the distribution block mounted back closer to the fire wall to give me the extra length I needed. Ideally I want to route the starter and alternator wire from the driver side fender, that would keep it neat and up above the headers and I could use the bracket on the top of the bellhousing to secure the wiring harness to. I could also do it this way I suppose: 1/0 feeding straight to the fuse box, another short 1/0 from the fuse box to the block, then 4awg from the block to the alternator and starter. That would minimize the cables in the engine bay as well as keeping it restricted to only two terminations at the fuse box. [USER=20210]@lwarrior1016[/USER] I also agree with you that does sound like the simplest solution. But isn’t the rule with grounds to keep them as short as possible as well? My plan for the ground was to come off the (-) side of the battery thru the trunk floor to a spot on the chassis...whether it be something like the quad shock mount or I could weld a stud to the chassis strictly for the ground. And of course still make a good ground from the block to the chassis as well. [/QUOTE]
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